Things to do in Malta
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St John's Co-Cathedral
St John's Co-Cathedral, Malta's most impressive church, was designed by the architect Gerolamo Cassar. It was built between 1573 and 1578, taking over from the Church of St Lawrence in Vittoriosa as the place where the Knights would gather for communal worship. It was raised to a status equal to that of St Paul's Cathedral in Mdina – the official seat of the Archbishop of Malta – by a papal decree of 1816, hence the term 'co-cathedral'.
Visitors should dress appropriately for a house of worship. Stiletto heels are not permitted, to protect the marble floor.
The plain facade renders the interior even more of a surprise: it's a colourful treasure house of Maltese…
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Malta Experience
This 45-minute audiovisual presentation, available in 13 languages, showcases the country's long history and highlights its scenic attractions. It's screened in the basement of the Mediterranean Conference Centre, which occupies the Sacra Infermeria, the 16th-century hospital of the Order of St John. Here surgeons performed advanced operations as well as the more routine amputations and treatment of war wounds. For a small extra charge you can take a worthwhile tour of the hospital, visiting its Grand Hall that once housed around 300 patients. A Knights Hospitallers Exhibition,which goes heavy on the waxworks, records the achievements of these medieval medics.
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La Sicilia
You're sure to find something to fill a gap at this unpretentious eatery overlooking a tranquil little square. There are lots of hearty Italian pasta dishes (under €8), grilled meats and fish.
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Caffe Cordina
There's some prime people-watching on Misraħ ir-Repubblika, where several cafes command the ranks of tables around the statue of Queen Victoria. This is the oldest (and busiest) option, established in 1837 and now a local institution. You have the choice of waiter service at the sunshaded tables in the square or inside, or joining the locals at the zinc counter inside for a quick caffeine hit. Be sure to look up; the ceiling is exquisite.
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Hal Saflieni Hypogeum
The Hal Saflieni Hypogeum is an incredible underground necropolis, discovered during building work in 1902. It consists of halls, chambers and passages hewn out of the living rock and covering some 500 sq metres; it is thought to date from around 3600 to 3000 BC, and an estimated 7000 bodies may have been interred here.
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Fusion Four
For us, this stylish, well-hidden restaurant is the culinary highlight of the capital. It houses a small bar, funky furnishings, a dining room under vaulted ceilings and a perfect, private courtyard. Icing on the cake is a small but innovative menu of fusion dishes such as mussels with lemongrass, white wine and parsley, ravioli of rabbit in a parmesan cream sauce or crisp pancetta-wrapped pork fillet on a bed of apples. Finish with a delectable white chocolate and honeycomb mousse.
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Casa Rocca Piccola
The 16th-century palazzo Casa Rocca Piccola is the family home of the Marquis de Piro, who has opened part of the palazzo to the public. Guided tours on the hour (10am to 4pm Monday to Saturday) give a unique insight into the elegant, privileged lifestyle of the aristocracy, and include a visit to the family WWII air-raid shelters underground.
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State Apartments
From the public entry to the Grand Master's Palace on Triq il-Merkanti it's possible to visit the State Apartments; note that the apartments are closed from time to time when official state visits are taking place. Heritage Malta conducts guided tours (included in the cost of admission) of the apartments.
A staircase past the Armoury entrance provides access to the State Apartments. Only a few rooms are open to the public, depending on what is currently being used. The long Armoury Corridor, decorated with trompe l'oeil painting, scenes of naval battles, blue colours and the portraits and escutcheons of various Grand Masters, leads to the Council Chamber on the left. It…
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Armoury
From the public entry to the Grand Master's Palace on Triq il-Merkanti it's possible to visit the Armoury (and the State Apartments). Heritage Malta conducts guided tours (included in the cost of admission) of the Armoury daily; tours and times are not set in stone, so it may be worth making advance enquiries.
The Armoury is now housed in what was once the Grand Master's stables. The armour and weapons belonging to the Knights were once stored at the Palace Armoury (now the Great Hall used by the parliament), and when a Knight died they became the property of the Order. The current collection of over 5000 suits of 16th- to 18th-century armour is all that remains of an…
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Fort St Elmo
Guarding the entrance to both Marsamxett and Grand Harbours is Fort St Elmo, named after the patron saint of mariners. Although now much altered and extended, this was the fort that bore the brunt of Turkish arms during the Great Siege of 1565. It was built by the Knights in 1552 to guard the entrances to the harbours on either side of the Sceberras Peninsula. The courtyard outside the entrance to the fort is studded with the lids of underground granaries.
It's pitched for renovation, but is currently home to Malta's police academy and is open to the public only for historical reenactments, held at 11am on most Sunday mornings except from mid-July to late September. In…
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Captain Morgan Cruises
Most Captain Morgan Cruises operate out of Sliema, but there are Buġibba departures for an hour-long 'underwater safari' in a glass-bottomed boat exploring the marine life around St Paul's Islands. Underwater safaris depart from Plajja Tal'Bognor three times daily Monday to Saturday June to September, and Monday to Friday April, May and October (€15/11 adult/child).
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Lascaris War Rooms
WWII history boffins should make time to visit the Lascaris War Rooms. These chambers, hewn out of the solid rock beneath Lascaris Bastion, housed the headquarters of the Allied air and naval forces during WWII, and were used as the control centre for Operation Husky, the Allied invasion of Sicily in 1943.
The rooms are a little tricky to find. Your best option is to walk south from Pjazza Kastilja along Triq Girolamo Cassar and look for the path on the right (signposted) that leads down into the Great Ditch beneath St James' Bastion and doubles back under the road to the entry. Once inside, you take a self-guided audio tour through the operations rooms. You'll need to…
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Fort Rinella
Built by the British in the late 19th century, Fort Rinella, 1.5km northeast of Vittoriosa, was one of two coastal batteries designed to counter the threat of Italy’s new ironclad battleships. The batteries (the second one was on Tigné Point in Sliema) were equipped with the latest Armstrong 100-tonne guns – the biggest muzzle-loading guns ever made. Their 100-tonne shells had a range of 6.4km and could penetrate 38cm of armour plating. The guns were never fired in anger, and were retired in 1906. Fort Rinella has been restored by a group of amateur enthusiasts from the Malta Heritage Trust and is now one of Malta’s most interesting military museums.
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Malta Aviation Museum
This is a real enthusiast's museum, with bits of engines, airframes and instruments lying around, and numerous restoration projects underway – including a De Havilland Tiger Moth. You can watch locals working on the aircraft and other exhibits. Stars of the show here are a WWII Spitfire MkIX and a Hawker Hurricane IIa, salvaged in 1995 after 54 years at the bottom ofthe sea off Malta's southwest coast; other aircraft on display include a vintage Flying Flea, a De Havilland Vampire T11, a Fiat G91R and a battered old Douglas Dakota DC-3. To visit, catch bus 205 (from Mosta, Naxxar or Rabat) or circular bus 106, which calls at Attard; there’s also a CitySightseeing…
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Tarxien Temples
The Tarxien Temples, pronounced tar-sheen, are hidden up a back street several blocks east of the Hypogeum – keep your eyes peeled, as the entrance is inconspicuous. These megalithic structures were excavated in 1914 and are thought to date from between 3600 and 2500 BC. There are four linked structures, built with massive stone blocks up to 3m by 1m by 1m in size, decorated with spiral patterns and pitting, and reliefs of animals including bulls, goats and pigs. The large statue of a broad-hipped female figure was found in the right-hand niche of the first temple.
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Cathedral Museum
The first bay in the south aisle of St John’s gives access to the Cathedral Museum. The first room is the Oratory, built in 1603 as a place of worship and for the instruction of novices. It is dominated by the altarpiece, The Beheading of St John the Baptist (c 1608) by Caravaggio, one of the artist’s most famous and accomplished paintings. The executioner – reaching for a knife to finish off the job that his sword began – and Salome with her platter are depicted with chilling realism (note that the artist signed his name in the blood seeping from St John’s severed neck). On the east wall hangs St Jerome, another of Caravaggio’s masterpieces.
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San Anton Palace & Gardens
The main attraction in the Three Villages area is the San Anton Palace & Gardens, in Attard. The palace (closed to the public) was built in the early 17th century as the country mansion of Grand Master Antoine de Paule. It later served as the official residence of the British Governor of Malta, and is now the official residence of the Maltese president. The lovely walled gardens stretch between the palace and the main entrance on Triq Birkirkara; they contain groves of citrus and avocado, as well as a bird aviary. The Eagle Fountain, just inside the main gate, dates from the 1620s.
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National War Museum
This impressive collection, appropriately based at Fort St Elmo, commemorates the country's ordeal during WWII. It includes the Gloster Gladiator biplane called Faith (minus wings) the sole survivor of the three planes that so valiantly defended the island when Italy declared war in 1940, the jeep Husky used by General Eisenhower, and the wreckage of a Spitfire and a Messerschmitt Me-109 fighter aircraft recovered from the seabed. The pictures of bomb damage in Valletta give some idea of the amount of rebuilding that was needed after the war. Pride of place goes to the replica George Cross medal that was awarded to the entire population of Malta in 1942.
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Gianpula
The Ibiza-styled Gianpula, a few kilometres east of Rabat (signposted en route to Żebbuġ), is a huge open-air club that kicked off in 1980 and is still going strong. It hosts big-name events showcasing top international DJs, as well as tours from megaclubs such as Cream, Godskitchen and Ministry of Sound. As well as staging these one-off nights and the odd music festival, Gianpula is open every Friday and Saturday night from June to September. Join up to 4000 others in a huge field complete with swimming pool and seven bars.
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Bobbyland Restaurant
At the northwest end of the Dingli Cliffs you’ll find Bobbyland Restaurant, where you can chow down with the locals before walking off your meal with a postprandial cliff-top stroll. This friendly, rustic former Nissen hut is 500m from the Dingli junction; on Sundays in particular the indoor and outdoor tables are crowded with diners munching contentedly on house specialities like spaghetti with rabbit sauce. They also serve pizza.
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Royal Opera House
On the main street, Triq ir-Repubblika you'll pass the cracked steps and shattered column stumps of the ruined Royal Opera House. This once imperious building was built in the 1860s, but was destroyed during a German air raid in 1942. Its gutted shell has been left as a reminder of the war.
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St James’ Cavalier Centre for Creativity
The St James’ Cavalier has undergone a remarkable transformation from a 16th-century fortification into a bright, modern arts centre. Inside the St James’ Cavalier Centre for Creativity are a couple of exhibition spaces (with a bias towards the contemporary art scene), a theatre-in-the-round where live music and theatre performances are held and a cinema showing arthouse films. It’s worth stopping in to check out the interesting interior and to grab a programme of what’s on.
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Saluting Battery
The Saluting Battery, where a cannon once fired salutes to visiting naval vessels. The battery has been restored, and a cannon is fired every day at noon. The guided tours show how the cannon is loaded and fired, and there are displays on the history of time-keeping and signalling.
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Rubino
Rubino earns rave reviews for reinventing Maltese cuisine while staying true to its roots. There's no menu, just a selection of the day's dishes depending on seasonal produce, with taste sensations like sfinec ta l-incova, a deep-fried savoury doughnut with anchovies. Leave room for dessert – the house speciality, cassata siciliana (sponge cake soaked in liqueur, layered with ricotta cheese), is particularly recommended. Tuesday night is usually fenkata (a communal meal of rabbit) night; bookings are advised.
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Church of St Paul's Shipwreck
In AD 60 St Paul was shipwrecked on Malta and brought Christianity to the population. Don't be fooled by this church's 19th-century facade; it dates from the 16th century and houses many treasures, including a dazzling gilded statue of St Paul, carved in Rome in the 1650s and carried shoulder-high through the streets of Valletta on the saint's feast day (10 February). There's also a golden reliquary containing some bones from the saint's wrist, and part of the column on which he is said to have been beheaded in Rome.
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