Madagascar

Getting around

Boat

On the northeast coast, cargo boats (sometimes called boutres) are the primary means of transport. Overloaded cargo boats, including passenger ferries, have capsized with significant loss of life. Always check for lifejackets and don’t get in if the seas are rough or if the boat is overcrowded. Boat travel on the east coast is generally unsafe during the rainy season between May and September.

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Hitching

Hitching is never entirely safe in any country in the world, and we don’t recommend it. Traffic between towns and cities is thin, and most passing vehicles are likely to be taxis-brousses or trucks, which are often full. If you do find a ride, you will likely have to pay about the equivalent of the taxi-brousse fare.

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Bus & tram

Bus

Long-distance bus companies, such as MadaBus (www.madabus.com), operate on the Toliar and Tamatave routes. These mostly use the same stations as the taxis-brousses and offer better punctuality, comfort and, arguably, safety. However, taxis-brousses remain the main form of public road transport in Madagascar.

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Car & motorcycle

To drive in Madagascar you will need to have an International Driving Permit (IDP).

You’ll find petrol stations of some kind in all cities and in most major towns. Spare parts and repairs of varying quality are available in most towns. Make sure to check the spare tyre of any car you rent before setting out.

To rent a car in Madagascar, you must generally be at least 23 years old and have held a driving licence for at least one year. Rental costs include insurance. Due to the often difficult driving conditions and road hazards, most rental agencies make hiring a driver obligatory with their vehicles. Prices average 100, 000Ar to 140, 000Ar per day for a 4WD, excluding fuel. For almost all destinations off the main routes a 4WD is advisable, and essential in the rainy season.

Motorcycles can be rented by the half day or full day at various places in Madagascar, including Toliara and Île Sainte Marie (for use on the island only). At most places, they range from a Honda or Yamaha 125cc or 250cc to a tiny Peugeot mobylette (moped). Some places also rent motorcycles suitable for longer, rougher journeys, and provide support vehicles as well.

Road conditions

Less than 15% of the country’s roads are paved, and many of those that are paved are badly deteriorated. Nonpaved roads are often exceptionally muddy, sandy or rocky. The Ihosy–Fort Dauphin route is very difficult during the rainy season.

Most accidents are caused by human failing (especially drunkenness) rather than by dangerous vehicles and roads. Delays are more common than accidents, so always factor in a few extra hours to allow for breakdowns or social calls en route.

Road rules

Driving in Madagascar is on the right-hand side. The police occasionally stop vehicles and carry out random checks, in the hope of detecting any of the 1001 possible (and probable) infractions of the vehicle code. Occasionally foreigners will be asked for their passport, but as long as your visa is in order there should be no problem.

If you aren’t used to local driving conditions, watch out for pedestrians, animals, broken-down cars and slow-moving zebu carts on the road. It is particularly hazardous to drive at night, as there is no lighting, so try to avoid it.

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Train

At the time of writing the Malagasy rail system, known as the Réseau National des Chemins de Fer Malgaches (RNCFM), operated only the Fianarantsoa–Manakara line. Plans are, however, afoot to restore the Antananarivo–Toamasina and Antananarivo–Andasibe services.

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Local transport

Pousse-pousse

Brightly coloured pousse-pousses (rickshaws) throng some Malagasy towns and you’ll probably be hounded by drivers looking for a fare. You may find the idea offensive, but the pousse-pousse men need work, not sympathy, as they rent their rickshaws and have to pay a daily amount to the owners. If you have heavy luggage, it’s polite to hire two pousse-pousse. Tourist rates start at about 1000Ar and are always negotiable, so agree to a fare before you climb aboard. When it’s raining, the price sometimes doubles.

Taxi-brousse

Taxis-brousses are a part of daily life in Madagascar and you’ll find it hard to travel independently around the country without wedging yourself into one at some point.

Fares for all trips are set by the government and are based on distance, duration and route conditions. Prices are the same for locals and foreigners. If you want to keep a backpack with you in the vehicle, you’ll need to pay for an extra seat.

The taxi-brousse system is relatively well organised once you get the hang of it. Upon arrival to a town, you may well be besieged by pushy but harmless touts, tugging at your luggage and yelling in your ear to try and win your custom.

Vehicles display the destination in white paint on their windscreen and fares are pinned up in the transport company offices that line the edges of the station.

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Air

The national carrier, Air Madagascar (22 222 22; www.airmadagascar.mg; 31 Ave de L’Indé­pendance, Antananarivo), has a pretty comprehensive and efficient network of domestic routes. Tickets are relatively inexpensive, and air travel is a good way of covering large distances and avoiding long road journeys.

A handy free booklet detailing timetables and routes (but not fares) is available from Air Madagascar’s head office in Antananarivo and from some travel agents.

You can pay for tickets in ariary, euros or US dollars at the head office in Antananarivo and Air Madagascar offices in larger towns, but smaller offices may only accept ariary. The office in Antananarivo also accepts travellers cheques and credit cards.

The baggage allowance for most internal flights is 20kg.

Reservations & check-in

Air Madagascar flights are frequently full, so it’s always worth booking as far in advance as possible.

While it’s officially unnecessary to reconfirm your Air Madagascar tickets, it’s best to check with the airline a few days in advance and again on the day of departure, as there are frequent last-minute schedule changes.

If you have checked in baggage, be sure to keep your baggage-claim ticket until you are reunited with your luggage at your destination.

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Bicycle

It may often be just as fast to travel by bicycle as by taxi-brousse. A mountain bike is normally essential. Carry spare parts, although inner tubes and other basic parts are sometimes available in larger towns. The terrain varies from very sandy to muddy or rough and rocky.

It’s usually no problem to transport your bicycle on taxis-brousses if you want to take a break en route.

Although you are able to rent mountain bikes in many larger towns, including Toamasina, Antsirabe and Ambodifotatra on Île Sainte Marie, they are not normally in good enough condition for long journeys.

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