Activities in Central Honshū
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M-Wave
Skating, while pricey (and hours vary), is perhaps the best way to experience M-Wave . Take a Yashima-bound bus from stop 1 from Nagano Station's east exit and get off at M-Wave.
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Kanazawa Goodwill Guide Network
At the station Tourist Information Office. Two weeks' notice is requested for free guiding in English.
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Goodwill Guide Group
The Goodwill Guide Group gives free one-hour tours of Matsumoto-Jō Castle by advance notice.
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Utsukushi-ga-hara & Asama Onsen
Northeast of town, Utsukushi-ga-hara Onsen (not to be confused with Utsukushi-ga-hara Kōgen) is the more beautiful of these two bathing areas, with a quaint main street and views across the valley. Asama Onsen's history is said to date back to the 10th century and includes writers and poets, though it looks quite generic now. Hot Plaza Asama feels like a neighbourhood sentō but boasts many pools and sauna.
Both towns are easily reached by bus from Matsumoto's bus terminal (Utsukushi-ga-hara Onsen: ¥330, 18 minutes, twice hourly; Asama Onsen: ¥350, 23 minutes, hourly).
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Onsen
There are many onsen in and around Hakuba- mura, but Mimizuku-no-yu, near the Hotel Hakuba, has some of the best mountain views from the tub.
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Kamikōchi Onsen Hotel
On cold or drizzly days, the hot baths here are a refreshing respite.
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Jōnen-dake
From Hotaka Station, it takes about 30 minutes by taxi (about ¥4800) to reach Ichi-no-sawa, from where experienced hikers can climb Jōnen-dake (2857m); the ascent takes about 5½ hours. There are many options for mountain hikes extending over several days in the region, but you must be properly prepared. Hiking maps and information are available at regional tourist information offices, although the more detailed maps are in Japanese. Get the taxi's meishi (business card) to phone for your return trip.
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Happō-One Ski Resort
Host of the downhill races at the 1998 Winter Olympics, Happō-One is one of Japan's best ski areas. The mountain views are superb, and beginner, intermediate and advanced runs cater to skiers and snowboarders.
Most runs go right down the face of the mountain, with several good burners descending from Usagidaira 109, the mountain's centre-point. Above this, two chairlifts run to the top, worth it for the views alone. On busy days, you can avoid lift-line bottlenecks by heading to areas like the Skyline 2.
The rest house at Usagidaira 109 is the largest eating establishment. The modern Virgin Café Hakuba has upscale ambience, while Café Kurobishi has excellent mountain views…
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Hakuba Cortina Kokusai
This smaller ski area at the north end of the Hakuba valley is popular both with those wanting a break from the main ski areas, and with the richer crowd from Tokyo who want the resort experience. It also caters to more advanced skiers, but can be icy when there isn't new snow. Its main building is a massive European gothic structure with hotel, restaurants, ski rental and deluxe onsen. You can also get a combined ticket with neighbouring Norikura resort for more skiing terrain.
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Hakuba 47 Winter Sports Park & Hakuba Goryū Ski Resort
The interlinked areas of Hakuba 47 Winter Sports Parkand Hakuba Goryū Ski Resortform the second major ski resort in the Hakuba area. There's a good variety of terrain at both areas, but you'll have to be at least an intermediate skier to ski the runs linking the two. Like Happō-One, this area boasts fantastic mountain views; the restaurant Alps 360 is the place to enjoy them. The Genki Go shuttle bus from Hakuba-mura and Hakuba-eki provides the easiest access.
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Evergreen Outdoor
This place offers an array of half-day adventures with English-speaking guides from about ¥5000 year-round, including canyoning and mountain biking, as well as snowshoeing and backcountry treks in the winter.
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Cormorant Fishing
During Gifu's cormorant fishing season (11 May to 15 October), boats depart nightly (except after flooding or on the night of a full moon) from the bridge, Nagara-bashi. Or you can view the action from a distance by walking along the river east of the bridge.
Bookings are strongly advised. Tickets are sold at hotels or, if any tickets remain after 6pm, at the booking office just below Nagara-bashi. Food and drink are not provided on the boats. On Monday to Friday, fares for the two later departures are ¥3000/2600 per adult/child. Take the bus to the Nagara-bashi stop.
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Cormorant Fishing
Ukai takes place close to Inuyama-yūen Station, by Twin Bridge Inuyama-bashi. Book your ticket at the tourist information office or Kisogawa Kankō, near the cormorant-fishing pier.
Boats depart nightly at 7pm from June to August. In September and October boats depart at 6.30pm.
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Bokuden-no-yu
The area's most unusual onsen – a tiny cave bath dripping with minerals. It's at the intersection at Naka-no-yu, just before the bus-only tunnel towards Kamikōchi proper. Enter the small shop next to the Naka-no-yu bus stop, pay and get the key to the little mountain hut housing the onsen. It is yours privately for up to 30 minutes.
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