Things to do in Port Au Prince
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Marché de Fer
Several of Haiti’s cities have Iron Markets, but the original and best is in central Port-au-Prince. The Marché de Fer is an exuberant and exotic red-metal structure dating from 1889, which looks more akin to something from the Arabian Nights than tropical Haiti. In fact, it was originally destined to be the main hall of Cairo train station (hence its minarets), but when the sale from the Parisian manufacturers fell through, President Florvil Hyppolite snapped it up as part of his plan to modernize Port-au-Prince.
reviewed
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Musée du Panthéon National
The Musée du Panthéon National is a modern, mostly subterranean museum set in its own gardens. Its unusual design echoes the houses of Haiti’s original Taíno inhabitants, a motif repeated by the conical central ‘well’ bringing light to illuminate the gold monument recreating the cannons and banners found on the national flag. The bodies of Toussaint Louverture, Dessalines, Christophe and Pétion are interred below, and the names of further heroes of the independence struggle marked on the surrounding walls.
reviewed
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Épi d’Or
This Haitian take on the Subway-style sandwich outlet was taking Port-au-Prince by storm when we visited. As well as fantastic sandwiches, it also serves crepes, pizza and ‘MacEpi’ burgers, and there’s an inhouse patisserie, all in bright surroundings and with cool air-con. Pay first, then present your ticket to complete the order. Be prepared for lengthy lunchtime queues.
reviewed
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Fior di Latte
Fior di Latte is not particularly well signed (it’s next to the American Airlines office). This restaurant’s vine-covered canopy is a lovely place to take an extended lunch break. The menu is Italian, with great plates of pasta and pizza, and some really tasty quiches thrown in, too. Finishing a meal with a bowl of homemade ice cream is a must.
reviewed
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Harry’s
A popular extended bar-resto, Harry’s is one for the nightbirds. Pizzas are the thing, but there are sandwiches and a smattering of Creole dishes, too. It’s unconventionally cool, and when you’ve eaten, grab a beer and challenge the locals to a game of pool on one of the tables.
reviewed
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Presse Café
We like Presse Café for its casual bistro air. Decorated with old newspapers and photos of jazz heroes, it’s a great place for a relaxed snack and drink, and even better for its lunchtime buffet. On Thursday and Friday evenings there’s usually live music.
reviewed
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Mun Cheez
A long-established and popular 1st-floor fast-food joint with good food, overlooking the junction with Ave Pan Américaine. It’s a cheery spot; you can sit with a beer and burger and watch the world go by.
reviewed
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Galerie Monnin
Port-au-Prince’s oldest private art gallery, in a lovely building. Lots of landscapes, but with a wide selection of different Haitian schools.
reviewed
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Musée d’Art Haïtien
The Musée d’Art Haïtien, on the southern edge of Champs de Mars, is something of a curate’s egg. It holds probably the largest collection of Haiti’s naive art, with masters like Hector Hyppolite, Préfète Duffaut, Philomé Obin and Robert St Brice well represented. Unfortunately the works aren’t hung well, and the permanent collection isn’t always on display. Instead you have to take potluck as to what’s on show, although the rotating exhibitions can be very good and sometimes branch out into photography.
reviewed
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Centre d’Art
The Centre d’Art is in a two-floor gingerbread house on a quiet street south of Champs de Mars. It was opened in 1944 by De Witt Peters as both school and exhibition space to encourage the new breed of Haitian painters. Through its work the Centre d’Art helped give painters such as Hyppolite, Obin and Bigaud the recognition they deserved, and was of such importance in the development of Haitian art that its opening is often referred to as ‘the miracle of 1944.’
reviewed
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Quartier Latin
A newer restaurant that’s proving itself popular, Quartier Latin throws French, Italian and Spanish dishes into the mix, and serves up generous and tasty dishes as a result. There are a few tables outside around a tiny pool, and a generally relaxed ambiance – further exhibited by the encouragement of its diners to write reviews and other messages on the walls at the entrance.
reviewed
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Sainte Trinité Episcopalian Cathedral
From the outside, this cathedral, just north of Champs de Mars, doesn’t look architecturally inspiring – a large but essentially unimpressive pale brick building. But the quiet exterior hides an amazing secret, as the inside is covered with joyously exuberant murals marking out the life of Christ, executed by the great masters of Haitian painting.
reviewed
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Boca Mocha
Expats call Boca Mocha the Haitian Starbucks, but it’s nicer than the epithet suggests. Coffee is the order of the day – we fell for the white-chocolate mochaccinos – but there are some refreshing smoothies and a suitably fortifying selection of sandwiches and cakes. There’s wi-fi, the art on the wall is for sale and the air-con is positively arctic.
reviewed
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Tiffany’s
This well-regarded restaurant in Bicentenaire has a cool, dark interior that attracts a slightly more well-heeled crowd, making this one of the few higher-end downtown restaurants to hold its own against the gravitational pull of the Pétionville dining scene. The French-influenced menu and good wine list are equally attractive draws here.
reviewed
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Arc-en-Ciel
This is a decent no-frills sort of a place, serving up healthily large portions of Creole standards. Along with platters of griyo (pork), plantain and the like, there’s good jerked chicken and a dash of American fast food. Later in the evening, diners compete with dancers as the music and atmosphere crank up a pitch.
reviewed
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Anba Tonel
Most people hit Pétionville’s restaurants for an alternative to Creole cuisine, but Anba Tonel may be the place to change minds. Kibby (fried stuffed meatballs) is the highlight here, along with the winning (and unlikely) lambi (conch) kebabs. It’s all served amid wonderfully kitsch decor, quite unmissable.
reviewed
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Grand Rue Artists
The Grand Rue artists are unlike anything you’ve seen in Haiti, turning scrap and found objects into startling Vodou sculpture. The results are a heady mix of spirit, sex and politics – a Caribbean junkyard gone cyberpunk, yet one very much grounded in the preoccupations of daily Haitian life.
reviewed
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Sylvio Cator Stadium
Soccer matches are regularly played at Sylvio Cator Stadium. It hosts international matches as well as being the home ground for Port-au-Prince’s two main clubs, Racing Club Hätien and Violette Athletic. The atmosphere can be frenzied, with lots of music, drumming and Prestige beer.
reviewed
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Papaye
‘Caribbean fusion’ aren’t words you expect to see written in a Haitian restaurant review, but Papaye carries off the idea with considerable aplomb, taking Creole dishes and jamming them up against Asian, European and other culinary influences. Somehow it works, and is worth repeated investigation.
reviewed
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Chez Yvane
It looks like a bright American diner, but Creole is the order of the day here. It’s good, too, going beyond plat complet (complete menu; consisting of rice and beans, salad, plantains and meat of your choice) for some interesting stews and soups. Also known locally as Chaffeur Gide.
reviewed
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Magdoos
The best place in Pétionville for Lebanese food, Magdoos also doubles as one of the places to be seen: check out the young, beautiful and rich here every Friday night. While you’re at it, enjoy the spread of Middle Eastern mezze, kebabs, and the Arabic music on Friday and Saturday evenings.
reviewed
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Galerie Issa
Set up by the late Issa el Saieh, one of Haiti’s most important art collectors (and sometime jazz musician). The gallery, with everything piled up in one huge room, has a wide collection of artwork on sale, plus some of the best metal art from Croix des Bouquets.
reviewed
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Café Terrasse
Enter this café on Rue Ducoste to the side of Le Plaza hotel. For such a small place it has a broad international menu, and there is a couple of dining options – in the upstairs salon or on the terrace café, designed for quick refueling. Good salads and crepes.
reviewed
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Chez Gerard
One of the places you dress up for, Chez Gerard is in a verdant covered garden hidden behind grand wooden doors. There are liveried waiters and dripping candles galore, and a Cordon Bleu menu of the highest order. If you want France in Haiti, look no further.
reviewed
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Le Coin des Artistes
Come here if you’re after seafood. It’s an informal sort of an affair, with an open-air grill in its terraced garden. The catch of the day is cooked over coals and served with Creole accompaniments, tasty and highly enjoyable with a cold one from the bar.
reviewed
