Things to do in Costa Rica
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Koki Beach
Reminiscent of Miami Beach, this sleek spot cranks reggae-lite and sports colorful Adirondack chairs that face the ocean from an elevated wooden platform on the east end of town. There’s a decent selection of Peruvian-inflected ceviches (seafood marinated in lemon or lime juice, garlic and seasonings), meat and seafood dishes, but slim pickings for vegetarians.
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Río Locos
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Colbert Restaurant
At this charming French restaurant with lovely views, you'll find a chef who looks like he’s straight out of Central Casting: Joël Suire is not only French, he is also amply moustachioed and wears a toque. Naturally, the menu is loaded with traditional French items such as onion soup and house-made paté. A good wine list (bottles from US$16) is strong on vintages from South America and France.
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Sabine’s Smiling Horses
Run by Sabine, who speaks English, French, Spanish and German, Smiling Horses offers a variety of treks including a popular waterfall tour (three hours). Her horses are in great condition.
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Jade Luna
A delectable dining experience, starting with the linen napkins and candlelit tables, and ending with tropical-flavored homemade ice cream. Not to gloss over what comes in between: the menu varies, but always features fresh Cajun-style fish and garlicky jumbo shrimp straight from the gulf, plus a host of appetizers and salads prepared with the freshest organic produce.
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Restaurante Coral Reef
This place attracts fish-lovers, who arrive for steaming portions of seafood stew served in a pleasant 2nd-story balcony overlooking the main drag. The place gets packed, especially in high season (make a reservation).
reviewed
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El Cuartel de la Boca del Monte
Though not strictly a live-music venue, this atmospheric old bar with exposed brick walls has long drawn in cheek-to-jowl crowds for live bands on most nights of the week (especially Fridays). It’s popular with university students, who arrive to flirt and drink and various combinations thereof.
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Coco's Bar
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Costa Rica Ríos
Offers week-long rafting trips that must be booked in advance.
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Koss Art Gallery
Visit Jaime at his outdoor studio on the beach, where he frequently displays his richly hued works in the high season. Call ahead for a viewing.
reviewed
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Proyecto Montezuma
Kerri Bowers and César Benavides of Proyecto Montezuma run an innovative volunteer program that not only gives to the community but also fosters cultural exchange, pays fair wages to its employees and gifts you something for donating your time and energy. You choose the project in which you’d like to participate, such as teaching local classes or removing trash from the beach and jungle (privileges that you will pay for). Or you can simply sign up for a sustainable adventure tour or surf lessons (two hours US$40) in and around Montezuma. Hit up the website for details.
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Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio
Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio was declared a national park in 1972, preserving it (with just minutes to spare) from being bulldozed and razed to make room for a coastal development project. Although Manuel Antonio was enlarged to its present-day size of 16 sq km in 2000, it is still the country’s second-smallest national park. Space remains a premium, and as this is one of Central America’s top tourist destinations, you’re going to have to break free from the camera-clicking tour groups and actively seek out your own idyllic spot of sand.
That said, Manuel Antonio is absolutely stunning, and on a good day, at the right time, it’s easy to convince yourself that…
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Rainmaker Aerial Walkway
Rainmaker is a privately owned rainforest that offered the first aerial walkway through the forest canopy in Central America. Although its star has faded a bit, the place is still regarded as one of the region’s best. From its tree-to-tree platforms, there are spectacular panoramic views of the surrounding primary and secondary rainforest, as well as occasional vistas out to the Pacific Ocean. The reserve is also home to the full complement of tropical wildlife, which means that there are myriad opportunities here for great bird-watching as well as the occasional monkey sighting.
Tours with naturalist guides leave hotels in Manuel Antonio and Quepos daily except Sunday;…
reviewed
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Península de Nicoya
The Nicoya Peninsula is a sun-drenched strip of land with over 130km (81mi) of stunning coastline bound by dry, tropical rainforest. As looks go, it's a beauty and the most popular tourist destination in the whole country. Though the coastlines are being increasingly colonized by gringos, the interior remains dedicated to agriculture and ranching.
In the past, poor access kept development in check. The recently constructed Friendship Bridge and the international airport in Liberia have created fast-track access. The resort mania around Playa Panamá and Playa Tambor is quickly spreading south. With record numbers of foreigners flocking to Nicoya, it's more important than…
reviewed
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Trio's
A touch of class in sweet Santa Elena, this rather Ikea-chic dining room behind SuperCompro is perched in the trees and the menu also aims high. At first blush you may be shocked at how un-tipica it is. What with coconut curry, pork ribs slathered in guava barbecue sauce, chicken breasts stuffed with figs and goat cheese, and a Tico version of Cobb salad on the menu, but dishes deliver big time. Even the green salad is special – packed with avocado, hearts of palm and blessed with a passionfruit feta vinaigrette (yes, it works). The cocktails are tasty too, and for dessert it has an amazing looking mango split.
reviewed
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Monteverde Cheese Factory
Until the upswing in ecotourism, Monteverde’s number-one employer was this cheese factory. Started in 1953 by Monteverde’s original Quaker settlers, the factory produces everything from a creamy Gouda to a very nice sharp, white cheddar, sold all over the country, as well as other dairy products such as yogurt and, most importantly, ice cream. Reservations are required for the two-hour tour of the factory.
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Herrera Gardens & Conservation Project
On the east side of the airstrip, Herrera Gardens & Conservation Project is a 250-acre reserve with beautiful botanical gardens. This innovative, long-term reforestation project offers an ecologically and economically sustainable alternative to cattle-grazing. Visitors can explore the 5km of garden trails or 15km of well-marked forest trails. Guided tours focus on birding, botany or even tree climbing! Stop by Jagua Arts & Crafts (near the airstrip) to buy a map or arrange your tour.
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La Chimera
Latin-infused tapas such as fried calamari with green chili-coconut sauce, slow-cooked white beans and pork, and sea bass with passionfruit cream and spicy mango chutney, are complemented by an excellent wine list featuring robust Chilean reds and crisp whites. Dine alfresco on the trellis patio or in the groovy, burnt orange dining room. The cocktails rock. Skip dessert.
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Playa Hermosa
While newbies struggle to stand up on their boards in Jacó, a few kilometers south in Playa Hermosa seasoned veterans are thrashing their way across the faces of some truly monster waves. Regarded as one of the most consistent and powerful breaks in the whole country, Hermosa serves up serious surf that commands the utmost respect. Of course, you really need to know what you’re doing in these parts – huge waves and strong riptides are unforgiving, and countless surfboards here have wound up shattered to pieces and strewn about on the shoreline. Still, even if you're not a pro, the vibe here is excellent, the surfers are chilled out and the beach lives up to its name.
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Sabor Español
She’s from Barcelona. He’s from Ibiza. And together, Heri and Montse have created one of the most authentic and lovely Spanish restaurants in Costa Rica. They specialize in paella, papas bravas, fresh fish, meats and chicken. Wash it down with some of the best sangria this side of the Atlantic. The ambience is rustic, intimate and super tranquilo and well worth the trip 2km north of downtown.
reviewed
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Thermal Hot Springs
About 2km north of San Gerardo above the ranger station the road forks; take the left fork and walk for about 1km on a paved road for these hot springs. Turn right and take the rickety suspension bridge over the river. A switchback trail will lead you another 1km to a house with a soda (inexpensive eatery), which is the entrance to the springs.
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Yökö Termales
Yökö has five hot springs ranging from 20°C to 35°C, and a larger pool with a small waterslide and waterfall, set in an attractive meadow at the foot of Miravalles. There's also a not-fit-for-humans 50°C pool boiling on the grounds. The 12 canary-tinted rooms (single/double including breakfast US$40/75) are comfy with beamed and plywood ceilings that look unfinished. It's a decent, but not magical, sleeping option. Extra amenities include a Jacuzzi, sauna and a relaxed restaurant (mains US$2 to US$10) serving everything from burgers to filet mignon.
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Café Milagro
Serving some of the country’s best cappuccino and espresso, this is a great place to perk up in the morning – try the perezoso (meaning ‘lazy’ or ‘sloth’), which is a double espresso poured into a large cup of drip-filter coffee. Or, if you want to simply relax and read the English-language newspapers that are available, you can indulge in a baked good or a freshly made deli sandwich.
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Desafío Adventure Company
Desafío has the widest range of river trips in Fortuna, and offers paddling trips on the Ríos Balsa and, occasionally, the Sarapiqui.
It also offers horse riding treks to Volcán Arenal, adventure tours rappelling down waterfalls, and mountain bike expeditions. Look for the crenelated new build.
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@ E's
This restaurant and bar at Rocking J’s is much more than just a travelers hang-out. Run by a Cordon Bleu–trained chef, Eric, the menu is a pan-everything fusion of Thai, Mexican and US cuisine – covering the gamut from burgers to stir-fries as well as fancier dishes, like seared marlin.
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