Lonely Planet review
A tranquil oasis of peace and methodical Confucian design in one of China’s busiest urban landscapes, the 267-hectare Temple of Heaven Park is encompassed by a long wall with a gate at each compass point. Although not strictly speaking a temple – the Chinese name means ‘Altar of Heaven’, so don’t expect burning incense or worshippers – it originally served as a vast stage for solemn rites performed by the Son of Heaven (a title bestowed on the emperor of the time), who prayed here for good harvests and sought divine clearance and atonement.
The arrangement is typical of Chinese parks, with the imperfections, bumps and wild irregularities of nature largely deleted and the harmonising hand of man accentuated in obsessively straight lines and regular arrangements. This effect is magnified by Confucian objectives, where the human intellect is imposed on the natural world, fashioning order and symmetry. The resulting balance and harmony have an almost haunting – but slightly claustrophobic – beauty. Police whir about in electric buggies as visitors stroll among old buildings, groves of ancient trees and birdsong. Around 4000 ancient, knotted cypresses (some 800 years old, their branches propped up on poles) poke towards the Běijīng skies within the grounds.
Seen from above, the temple halls are round and the bases square, in accordance with the notion ‘Tiānyuán Dìfāng’ (天圆地方) – ‘Heaven is round, Earth is square’. Also observe that the northern rim of the park is semicircular, while its southern end is square. The traditional approach to the temple was from the south, via Zhāohēng Gate (昭亨门; Zhāohēng Mén); the north gate is an architectural afterthought.
The highlight of the park, and an icon of Běijīng in its own right, is the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests , an astonishing structure with a triple-eaved purplish-blue umbrella roof mounted on a three-tiered marble terrace. The wooden pillars (made from Oregon fir) support the ceiling without nails or cement – for a building 38m high and 30m in diameter, that’s quite an accomplishment. Embedded in the ceiling is a carved dragon, a symbol of the emperor. Built in 1420, the hall was reduced to carbon after being zapped by a lightning bolt during the reign of Guangxu in 1889; a faithful reproduction based on Ming architectural methods was erected the following year.
Continuing south along an elevated imperial pathway, you soon reach the octagonal Imperial Vault of Heaven (皇穹宇; Huáng Qióngyǔ), which was erected at the same time as the Round Altar, but with its shape echoing the lines of the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests. The hall contained tablets of the emperor’s ancestors, employed during winter solstice ceremonies.
Wrapped around the Imperial Vault of Heaven is Echo Wall . A whisper can travel clearly from one end to your friend’s ear at the other – unless a cacophonous tour group joins in (get here early for this one).
Immediately south of Echo Wall, the 5m-high Round Altar was constructed in 1530 and rebuilt in 1740. Consisting of white marble arrayed in three tiers, its geometry revolves around the imperial number nine. Odd numbers possess heavenly significance, with nine the largest single-digit odd number. Symbolising heaven, the top tier is a huge mosaic of nine rings, each composed of multiples of nine stones, so that the ninth ring equals 81 stones. The stairs and balustrades are similarly presented in multiples of nine. Sounds generated from the centre of the upper terrace undergo amplification from the marble balustrades (the acoustics can get noisy when crowds join in).
Off to the eastern side of the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests, and with a green-tiled tow-tier roof, the Animal Killing Pavilion (Zǎishēng Tíng) was the venue for the slaughter of sacrificial oxen, sheep, deer and other animals. Today it stands locked and passive but can be admired from theoutside. Stretching out from here runs a Long Corridor (Chángláng), where locals sit out and deal cards, listen to the radio, play keyboards, practise Běijīng opera, try dance moves and kick hacky-sacks. Just north of here is a large and very popular exercise park.
In the west of the park, sacrificial music was rehearsed at the Divine Music Administration (Shényuè Shǔ), while wild cats inhabit the dry moat of the green-tiled Fasting Palace .