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Forever being compared to Běijīng (if anything, it's more like Shànghǎi), the former foreign concession port of Tiānjīn (天津) is a large, booming, yet laid-back city, with a pleasant river promenade and some charming neighbourhoods. It's an easy day trip from the capital, but you may want a long weekend to explore the city properly.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Tianjin.
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This impressive five-floor museum has over 200,000 pieces in its collection, ranging from oracle bones and an excellent inkstone exhibit to various artefacts and documents related specifically to the city's historical development. The 3rd floor, which focuses on Tianjin's development as a modern city from the Opium War onwards, is a highlight.
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Tianjin’s most important Buddhist temple – signposted as 'Dabei Temple' on street signs – was built in three stages from 1436 to 1734. While most of the architecture has since been rebuilt, it's a very large and active place and an enthralling place to wander. Don't miss the huge, multi-armed statue of Guanyin – whose eyes seem to follow you around – standing in the Great Compassion Hall in a side courtyard. Admission includes three incense sticks; pick them up to the right of the Hall of Heavenly Kings.
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This charming guildhall, built in 1907, is one of the few buildings of any genuine age in the Old Town. It’s a lovely courtyard complex, centred on a beautiful, ornate, wooden theatre where Peking opera performances are held on Saturday and Sunday afternoons (2.30pm to 4pm; tickets from ¥40). Don't miss poking your head into the back courtyard, with its fading murals by the south entrance. The guildhall is directly opposite the southeast corner of the Drum Tower.
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South of the station across Liberation Bridge was the British concession. The rebuilt riverside facade is an impressive sight at night, but walk further south along Jiefang Beilu to see original, imposing, hundred-year-old European buildings, which once housed the city's international banks. Names are posted on plaques outside each building; many still house banks today. One building of particular note is the former Qing dynasty post office, which now has a historic stamp collection on display.
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The vast Shi Family Residence, 20km west of Tianijn, is an intriguing warren of courtyards and enclosed gardens. Formerly belonging to a prosperous merchant family, the restored residence (originally built in 1875) contains a theatre and 278 rooms, some of which are furnished. It's the centrepiece of the recently spruced up Yangliuqing Ancient Town, a former canal-side market town that's been opened up for tourists. Take bus 824 (¥3, one hour) from Tianjin Train Station.
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Standing at the Old Town's centre is the large Drum Tower. It's a modern rebuild, but inside it contains some interesting photos of old Tianijn and you can climb to the top for views. The pedestrianised shopping streets around it have an array of handicrafts shops and restaurants. If you're coming from Gulou metro station (500m south of the Drum Tower), turn right out of Exit D, right at the lights and keep walking, through the decorative arch.
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The centrepiece of the Wudadao neighbourhood, Minyuan Plaza was rebuilt in 2012 on the site of a 90-year-old stadium that was originally designed by former British Olympian Eric Liddell. It now functions as a giant park of sorts – you can still run laps if you want – with a visitors centre, two small museums (of limited interest), and a host of cafes and restaurants. It's particularly lively in the evening.
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This busy temple, with its healthy mix of Taoist, Buddhist and Confucian deities, is dedicated to Tianhou (Empress of Heaven). Goddess of the sea and the protector of sailors, she is also popularly known as Mazu and Niangniang. The main hall is the Niangniang Palace, which features an effigy of Tianhou in a glass case, flanked by ferocious-looking weapons and attendant monsters.
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Tianjin's quiet Confucius Temple is actually a two-for-one, with the provincial temple on the east side (dating from 1436) and the county temple on the west side (dating from 1734). Although almost everything has been rebuilt, the county side has some exhibits on the history and main tenets of Confucianism, all set to qín music playing beneath the cypress trees.