Things to do in British Columbia
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Eatery
Wooden booths, lava lamps and a neon ‘miso horny’ sign are all part of the ambience at this pop-culture reinvention of the traditional sushi joint. Bring your manga comic and dip into the giant, well-priced menu of soba bowls, curry-rice and several sushi combos, all washed down with a good selection of Japanese and Canadian bottled beers. There are plenty of vegetarian options, including some shareable platters for all those veggies who travel in packs.
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Naam
A rare and evocative relic of Kitsilano's hippie past, this vegetarian restaurant has the feel of a comfy, highly chatty farmhouse. It's not unusual to have to wait for a table here at peak times, but it's worth it for the hearty stir-fries, Mexican platters and sesame-fried potatoes with miso gravy. This is the kind of veggie spot where carnivores are also happy to dine. There's nightly live music, an array of great organic beers and a popular patio – it's covered, so you can cozy up here with a bowl of broth and still enjoy the rain.
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Bridges
You'll easily spot this bright yellow bistro as you pass over the Granville Bridge on your way here. In summer it offers one of the best sunset patios in town from which to enjoy well-executed classics like seafood chowder, halibut and chips and thin-crust pizzas – the smoked-salmon variety is recommended. Also consider a pitcher of Granville Island Iced Tea (if you have enough friends to finish it). Diners can escape the patio clamor at the quieter, more upscale upstairs dining room (dinner only).
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Mint
This loungey late-night hang-out is popular with bar staff winding down after their shifts. But they don't just come to bitch about their non-tipping customers; Mint offers an eclectic, finger-licking menu of Nepalese, Tibetan and fusion delicacies that runs from spicy lamb cooked with apricots to almond-and-cashew pesto fettuccine. There's an equally diverse menu of regular DJ performances.
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Pagliacci’s
At Pagliacci’s, unlimited baskets of fresh focaccia bread are delivered to the marble-topped tables. Generous pasta servings from the cinema-themed menu almost defy devouring; try the Hemingway Short Story (beef-stuffed tortellini).
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Capilano Suspension Bridge
As you walk gingerly out onto one of the world's longest (140m) and highest (70m) suspension bridges, swaying gently over the roiling waters of tree-lined Capilano Canyon, remember that the thick steel cables you are gripping are safely embedded in huge concrete blocks on either side. That should steady your feet – unless there are teenagers stamping across to scare the oldsters. It's the region's most popular attraction – hence the summertime crowds and relentless tour buses. The grounds here include rainforest walks, totem poles and a network of smaller bridges strung between the trees, called Treetops Adventure. Drop by the souvenir shop, one of BC's biggest, for…
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Vancouver Aquarium
Stanley Park's biggest draw, the aquarium is home to 9000 water-loving critters – including sharks, wolf eels, beluga whales and a somewhat shy octopus. There's also a small, walk-through rainforest area of birds, turtles and a statue-still sloth. Check out the mesmerizing iridescent jellyfish tanks and the portly sea otter who eats the way everyone should: lying on its back using its chest as a plate (trust us: it's not as easy as it looks). Check the schedule for feeding times and consider booking an Animal Encounter tour (from $24), where you'll learn how to be a trainer. The attraction's newest draw is its 4-D Experience: a 3-D movie theater with added wind, mist and…
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BC Sports Hall of Fame & Museum
Located inside BC Place Stadium, the small but perfectly formed Sports Hall of Fame showcases top BC athletes, both amateur and professional, with special galleries devoted to each decade in sports. There’s a wealth of medals, trophies and sporting memorabilia on display (judging by the size of their shirts, hockey players were much smaller in the old days) and there are tons of hands-on activities to tire the kids out. Check out the stirring exhibits on Terry Fox and his ‘Marathon of Hope’ run across Canada, plus Rick Hanson and his ‘Man-in-Motion’ worldwide wheelchair journey.
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Go Fish
A two-minute walk west along the seawall from the Granville Island entrance, this wildly popular seafood shack is one of the city's best fish-and-chip joints, offering a choice of halibut, salmon or cod encased in crispy golden batter. The smashing (and lighter) fish tacos are also highly recommended, while the ever-changing daily specials – brought in by the nearby fishing boats – often include praiseworthy scallop burgers or ahi tuna sandwiches. There's not much of a seating area, so pack your grub and continue along the seawall to Vanier Park for a picnic with the ever-watchful seagulls.
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Dave’s Fish & Chips
Join the throngs of locals strolling the boardwalks in the old fishing village of Steveston on the southern border of Richmond – a great sunset spot – then head a couple of blocks inland to this unassuming old-school fish-and-chippery. With a simple brown-wood and wobbly-table interior that hasn’t changed in decades, Dave’s puts all its effort into what goes on the plate. All the traditional dishes are here, but for something different try the oysters and chips or the velvet-soft battered salmon and chips. Great value.
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Elbow Room
Expect some verbal sparring at this local hangout where the jokily abusive servers will greet you with the line ‘Move your ass to the table, ’ then shimmy over to demand ‘Are you ready to order, or what?’ It’s all meant warmly – if they don’t insult you, they really don’t like you – so make sure you give as good as you get. Breakfasts (including omelets, eggs Benny and ‘big-ass pancakes’) are legendary here, but the bulging burgers are excellent, too.
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Fish House in Stanley Park
The park's fanciest dine-out, the double-patioed Fish House serves some of the city's best seafood. The menu changes based on seasonal availability but typical favorites include chili sablefish and cedar-planked char, while the fresh oyster bar is ever-popular with visiting shuckers. Weekend brunch is a highlight – salmon bagel Benedict is recommended – and if you haven't eaten enough already the desserts are also surprisingly creative: save room for chocolate lava cake, then run around the park four times to work it off.
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Butchart Gardens
With all the rugged natural beauty in British Columbia, it’s a bit ironic that one of the province’s top tourism draws is the 20 hectares of elaborate manicured foliage at Butchart Gardens, 21km north of Victoria in Brentwood Bay. With its year-round kaleidoscope of colors, the grounds are divided into separate garden areas – the tranquil Japanese Garden is a favorite. Summer can be crowded but the Saturday-night fireworks display (July and August) makes it all worthwhile.
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Lennox Pub
This narrow Granville St drinkery never seems to have enough tables to go around at the weekend, when the noise levels prevent all but the most rudimentary of conversations. It's a different story during the week, when calm is restored and you can savor a good roster of 15 drafts from Belgium and beyond – try the Leffe or Big Rock Grasshopper. The decor is reproduction old-school and the upstairs seating area is a popular couples' nook.
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Noodle Box
Southeast Asian cuisine with a strong Malaysian influence is the approach at this buzzing business that started out as a street vendor. A great place for takeout - served in those funky boxes - it's also a chatty eat-in spot. Popular stir-fries include Thai-style chow mein, and the Cambodian Jungle Curry is recommended for those who like their meals with a spicy kick.
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Lotus Pond
Behind the unassuming, almost shabby exterior of this downtown Chinese restaurant is an extensive, all-vegan menu of delights created using Buddhist principles. Even meat eaters have been known to swoon here, as they tuck into surprisingly tasty spring rolls, dim sum and pot stickers. Combo meals are the best option, as they offer an array of different flavors.
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Royal BC Museum
At the province's best museum, start at the 2nd-floor natural-history showcase fronted by a beady-eyed woolly mammoth and lined with realistic dioramas – the forest of elk and grizzlies peeking from behind trees is highly evocative. Then peruse the First Peoples exhibit and its deep exploration of indigenous culture, including a fascinating mask gallery (look for the ferret-faced white man). The best area, though, is the walk-through recreated street that reanimates the early colonial city, complete with a chatty Chinatown, highly detailed stores and a little movie house showing Charlie Chaplin films. The museum also has an IMAX theatre.
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John's Place
Victoria's best weekend brunch spot, this wood-floored, high-ceilinged heritage room is lined with funky memorabilia and the menu is a cut above standard diner fare. It'll start you off with a basket of addictive house-made bread, but save room for heaping pasta dishes or a Belgian waffle breakfast. And don't leave without trying a thick slab of pie from the case at the front.
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ReBar
A laid-back local legend, ReBar mixes colorful interiors with a natty, mostly vegetarian menu. Carnivores will be just as happy to eat here, though, with hearty savory dishes such as shitake-tofu pot stickers, Thai green curry and heaping brunches – the salmon-topped bagel melt is great. There's also a wholesome specialty juice selection (try the orange, pear and cranberry).
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University of British Columbia
The giant University of British Columbia is more than just your average college campus. Its 402-hectare grounds are part of an area called the University Endowment Lands and are set amid rugged forest. Three of the city’s most treasured and wild beaches – Locarno, Spanish Banks and Wreck – are located around this area. The tranquil Nitobe Memorial Garden and sweeping UBC Botanical Garden flourish nearby. And one of the world’s foremost First Nations museums nestles along the clifftop: the Museum of Anthropology, with its amazing indigenous artifacts and wealth of totem poles. There’s also a modern art gallery and a brand new natural history museum. As if that wasn’t…
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BC Place Stadium
Site of the 2010 Winter Olympic opening and closing ceremonies, the city's main sports arena was having its dodgy old Teflon roof replaced with a new retractable lid during research for this book, at a cost of around $500 million. On completion (scheduled for summer 2011), it will be the home of both the BC Lions Canadian Football League team and the Vancouver Whitecaps soccer team. Also used for major rock shows, the stadium was expected to resume its popular behind-the-scenes tours once its shiny new hat is in place. Also keep your eyes peeled for the re-opening of the BC Sports Hall of Fame & Museum. Closed during the refurb, it's a family-friendly celebration of the…
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Museum of Anthropology
Recently renovated and expanded, Vancouver's best museum houses northwest coast aboriginal artifacts, including Haida houses and totem poles, plus non–First Nations exhibits like European ceramics and Cantonese opera costumes. The free guided tours are highly recommended, as is the excellent artsy gift shop. Give yourself a couple of hours at this museum.
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Vij's
Just off S Granville St, ever-popular Vij's is the high-water mark of contemporary East Indian cuisine, fusing regional ingredients, subtle global flourishes and classic ethnic dishes to produce an array of innovative flavors. The unique results range from signature wine-marinated 'lamb popsicles' to savor-worthy dishes like halibut, mussels and crab in a tomato-ginger curry. The adventurous should also try the paranta: flat breads made with roasted ground crickets. Reservations are not accepted: avoid the queues by hitting Rangoli, the adjoining take-out cafe. Plans were afoot at the time of writing to move to a new Cambie St location, so call ahead.
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Bishop's
A pioneer of superb West Coast cuisine long before the 'locavore' fashion took hold, modest but legendary chef-owner John Bishop – he'll almost certainly drop by your table to say hi – is still at the top of his game in this charming, art-lined little restaurant. Served in an elegant, white- tablecloth room, the weekly-changing menu can include stuffed rabbit loin, steamed smoked sablefish and the kind of crisp, seasonal veggies that taste like they've just been plucked from the ground. The service here is pitch-perfect, so stay a little longer and indulge in dessert: if you're lucky, it'll be sweet fried fig empanada with brown sugar ice-cream.
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Sura Korean Cuisine
From the 1400-block of Robson St and around onto Denman and Davie Sts, you'll suddenly find yourself among a finger-licking smorgasbord of popular Korean and Japanese casual eateries. Originally catering to the homesick ESL students who still call the area home, Vancouverites have embraced this area as a great way to indulge in authentic Asian dining. A cut above its student-luring siblings, Sura offers awesome Korean comfort dishes in a white-walled, bistro-like setting. Try the spicy beef soup, kimchee pancakes and excellent dolsot bibimbap (beef, veggies and a still-cooking egg in a hot stone bowl).
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