Getting around
The Big Island is divided into six districts: Kona, Kohala, Waimea, Hilo, Puna and Ka'u. The Hawai'i Belt Rd circles the island, covering the main towns and sights. It’s possible but not efficient or convenient to get around by bus. Really, if you want to explore, you need a car.
The best foldout map is the Hawaii Street Guide Big Island Manini Map. This is a slimmer version of the Ready Mapbook series’ encyclopedic, but bulky, books covering east and west Hawai'i (but worth it for a long stay on the Big Island). Another good foldout map is Nelles’ Hawai'i: The Big Island. The colorful Franko’s map of Hawai'i, the Big Island features water sports and is sold at dive shops.
Bus & tram
Bus
Unless you don’t plan to stay long or go far, don’t base your trip on using the county-run Hele-On Bus (961-8744; www.co.hawaii.hi.us/mass_transit/heleonbus.html; 7:45am-4:30pm Mon-Fri). Even though all buses are free, and even though routes cover the island, service is minimal, and most routes only run Monday to Friday; none run on Sunday. Schedules are available at the Big Island Visitors Bureau and the information kiosk at Hilo’s Moʻoheau bus terminal. All buses originate from Moʻoheau terminal, unless otherwise noted. You need permission from the driver to board with a surfboard or boogie board; these items, in addition to luggage, backpacks and bicycles, are charged a $1 fee.
Bus & van
Several longtime tour operators offer around-the-island tours, which are essentially a mad dash through Kailua-Kona, Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park, Punaluʻu black-sand beach, Hilo’s Rainbow Falls, the Hamakua Coast and Waimea. Trust us, you’ll get only a quick glimpse of the island.
Roberts Hawaii (954-8652, 866-898-2519; www.robertshawaii.com), Jack’s Tours (969-9507, 800-442-5557; www.jackshawaii.com) and Polynesian Adventure Tours (329-8008, 800-622-3011; www.polyad.com) offer daylong circle-island bus tours (with variations) that cost from $65 to $80. All three companies pick up passengers at hotels in Waikoloa, Kailua-Kona and Keauhou; the exact time varies, but expect to leave at around sunrise and get back around sunset.
For something more unusual, contact Hawaii AgVentures (324-6011, 800-660-6011; www.hawaiiagventures.com) and ask about creating a personalized tour of local farms – perhaps Kona chocolate, local cheese or fruit orchards. Rates depend on group size and tour.
Car & motorcycle
From Kona to Hilo, the northern half of the belt road is 92 miles, and the nonstop journey takes over two hours. The southern Kona-Hilo route is 125 miles and takes approximately three hours nonstop.
Before renting a car, consider whether you want to drive Saddle Rd, the only route to Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa. Though the condition and reputation of this road is improving, most rental companies still prohibit driving their cars on it. Currently, Harper, National and Alamo are the only companies that allow driving on Saddle Rd, and only Harper rents 4WDs that can be driven past Mauna Kea’s visitor center to the summit.
There are car-hire booths at Kona and Hilo airports:
Alamo Hilo (961-3343); Kona (329-8896)
Avis Hilo (935-1290); Kona (327-3000)
Budget Hilo (935-6878); Kona (329-8511)
Dollar (Hawaii reservations 800-367-7006)
Hertz Hilo (935-2896); Kona (329-3566)
National Hilo (935-0891); Kona (329-1674)
Thrifty (877-283-0898)
Harper Car & Truck Rentals (969-1478, 800-852-9993; www.harpershawaii.com; 456 Kalaniana’ole Ave, Hilo) is the local car-hire agency. It is the only company that rents 4WDs that can be driven to Mauna Kea’s summit, but they are expensive and the insurance coverage (which is supplemental, not primary) has a high deductable. Rates fluctuate greatly by season and demand, but for a 4WD anticipate spending at least $130 per day, and always ask for rate quotes including taxes.
Tours
Helicopter
For a thrilling bird’s-eye view of the island, try a helicopter tour. Lava tours (all leaving from Hilo) are far and away the most popular – most fly over Kilauea Caldera, the active Puʻu ʻOʻo vent and then hover over live lava flows. Before booking, confirm exactly what you’ll see, and make sure all seats are window seats. Noise-canceling headsets are nice – and some promise ‘doors off’ tours. Other helicopter tours (some leaving from Kona) take in the valleys of the Kohala and Hamakua Coasts. Expect to pay $175 and up for a 45- to 55-minute lava tour, while two-hour valley trips run to $350 and more.
Helicopter tours are canceled during inclement weather but may fly when it’s overcast; wait for a sparkling clear day if you can. Free tourist magazines have discount coupons, but the best deals are found by booking ahead through the internet.
Blue Hawaiian Helicopters (961-5600, 800-745-2583; www.bluehawaiian.com) Reliable, dependable and high volume.
Island Hoppers (329-0018, 800-538-7590; www.fly-hawaii.com/above) Has cheaper 50-minute ‘flightseeing tours’ by small prop plane.
Paradise Helicopters (329-6601; www.paradisecopters.com) A good reputation for more personal tours.
Sunshine Helicopters (871-0722, 800-469-3000; www.sunshinehelicopters.com)
Tropical Helicopters (866-961-6810; www.tropicalhelicopters.com)
Local transport
Taxi
On the Big Island, cab drivers are typically locals who are familiar with the island, and they often act as tour guides. It’s easy to find a cab at either airport, but most companies are small, with no advertisements or Yellow Pages listings. Cabs don’t run all night or cruise for passengers, so in town you’ll need to call ahead. The standard flag-down fee is $2, plus $2 per mile thereafter.
Bicycle
The best way to cycle around the Big Island is with the support of a tour. Though do-able on one’s own, it’s a challenge, particularly if the weather doesn’t cooperate. However, because Kona is the hub for the Ironman Triathlon, you’ll find top-notch bike shops that sell and can repair high-caliber equipment.
Hawai'i (The Big Island)
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