Things to do in Montevideo
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Plaza Independencia
Plaza Independencia is at the heart of Montevideo's Ciudad Vieja (old city). This broad square, lined with palms, is dominated by a huge statue of José Artigas, Uruguay's greatest hero. You can pay your respects to Artigas at his underground tomb beneath the statue.
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Mausoleo de Artigas
In the middle of the downtown Plaza Independencia is the Mausoleo de Artigas, whose aboveground portion is a 17m, 30-ton statue of the country's independence hero. Below street level an honor guard keeps 24-hour vigil over Artigas' remains.
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Cycling
Get yourself a bike and go cruising along the walking-jogging-cycling track that follows the riverfront Rambla; bikes can be rented at both the Montevideo Hostel and the Ciudad Vieja Hostel. If all that seems a bit too energetic, bus 64 goes from Av 18 de Julio along the coast road - just jump off when you see a beach you like.
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El Pony Pisador
This thriving bar and disco has two locations in Montevideo featuring live music nightly; depending on the evening and the location, you may find yourself dancing to blues, Brazilian, flamenco, oldies, soul, Latin or rock covers in English and Spanish. The Pocitos branch occasionally also hosts stand-up comics.
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Mercado del Puerto
Mercado del Puerto, on the Ciudad Vieja waterfront, is the classic place to eat in Montevideo. The densely packed parrillas here cater to every budget, competing like rutting elk to show off their obscenely large racks – of roasted meat and veggies, that is!
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Manos del Uruguay - San José
Manos del Uruguay is famous for its range of slightly pricey, high-quality goods. A non-profit cooperative, the shop sells locally made items including woolen sweaters, scarves, rugs, blankets and tapestries. Has a second branch at Reconquista 602.
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La Corte
OK, so maybe you'd rather not eat in a place once patronized by George W Bush, but the food is excellent at this elegant twin-level restaurant on Plaza Constitución. The lunchtime menu ejecutivo (business lunch) is a bargain.
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Kazbah
The restaurant scene in Montevideo is just starting to get interesting, and this Middle Eastern inspired place is one of the forerunners. Come here for all your faves, like falafel, schwarma (doner kebabs), couscous and tagines.
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Bus Tour of Ciudad Vieja
On Saturday afternoons, a photogenic (but stinky!) vintage bus makes half-hour circuits of the Ciudad Vieja from Plaza Constitución, with running commentary. Departures are announced by megaphone - don't worry, you'll hear it!
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Manos del Uruguay - Reconquista
Famous for its range of slightly pricey, high-quality goods. A non-profit cooperative, the shop sells locally made items including woolen sweaters, scarves, rugs, blankets and tapestries. Has a second branch at San José 1111.
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Panini's
For fine dining, Italian style, try this place in the pedestrian zone just off Plaza Independencia. Pasta lovers will appreciate the degustación de pastas - a veritable smorgasbord of noodley delights.
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Casa Garibaldi
Casa Garibaldi is where Guiseppe Garibaldi once lived. The 19th-century Italian nationalist hero spent years of exile in Montevideo following a revolt against the monarchy. Not a bad place to go into hiding, really.
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Afro Mundo
Classes in African drumming, capoeira and candombe dance.
Note that this course doesn't cater for the casual learner - you'd want to be staying at least a month to get your money's worth.
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Confitería La Pasiva
This perfectly placed branch of Uruguay's famous chain confitería has outdoor seating on Ciudad Vieja's main square, with excellent, reasonably priced minutas (short orders) and good breakfast specials.
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Che Montevideo
The menu here features seafood with an international twist, but the biggest attraction is the open-air deck, providing spectacular views of the Río de la Plata and its sailboats at sunset.
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Lobizón 7
Popular with young montevideanos, with inexpensive lunch specials including gramajo (a calorie-packed house special of eggs, ham and French fries). Live music some nights.
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Cantina Vasca
Eat among the card-players at this cozy 2nd-floor Basque social club overlooking a leafy street. Daily seafood specials, pasta and paellas are complemented by glasses of house wine.
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Euskal Erria
An excellent selection of Basque and Spanish dishes are on offer here, as is the best paella in town. Cheap jarras (jugs) of red wine are bound to keep you hanging around.
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Palacio Salvo
On the east side of the Plaza Independencia, the 26-story structure with the crazy beehive hairdo is Palacio Salvo, the continent's tallest building when it opened in 1927.
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Mediterráneo
This trendy, dimly lit pizzeria in Palermo, with brick walls and high beamed ceilings, is on the expensive side, but the lunchtime menu ejecutivo is a great deal.
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Puerta de la Ciudadela
At the west end of the Plaza Independencia is the Puerta de la Ciudadela, a stone gateway that is one of the only remnants of the colonial citadel demolished in 1833.
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Iglesia Matriz
Opposite the Cabildo on Plaza Constitución is the Iglesia Matriz, Montevideo's oldest public building. It was begun in 1784 and completed in 1799.
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Café@
An old favorite in that happening bar precinct, Bartolomé Mitre. Has reasonably priced drinks, DJs and occasional live music.
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Yacht Harbor
The Yacht Harbor in Buceo, just east of Pocitos beach, is a picturesque spot for a stroll and a popular Sunday afternoon hangout.
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Rincón de Zabala
This modern corner place serves up free wi-fi along with affordable breakfasts, sandwiches and cafeteria-style daily specials.
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