Things to do in Istanbul
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Saf' Organic Bistro
Supremely stylish Saf's menu is creative and delicious in equal parts, with dishes such as mushroom ravioli with marinated beetroot, wild mushrooms, porcini cream and a balsamic fig compote featuring. There are five- and three-course tasting menus that match each course with a glass of organic wine, as well as a fabulous array of cocktails. All ingredients are organic and vegans are catered for.
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Vogue
It seems as if Vogue has been around for almost as long as the Republic. In fact, this sophisticated bar-restaurant in an office block in Beşiktas opened just over a decade ago. It's a favourite haunt of the Nişantaşı powerbroker set, who love nothing more than enjoying a drink at the terrace bar before moving into the restaurant for dinner.
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Asırlık Kanlıca Yoğurdu
Past the bridge, still on the Asian side, is the charming village of Kanlıca, famous for its rich and delicious yoghurt. You'll be offered some on the ferry and can sample it in the Asırlık Kanlıca Yoğurdu, a café on the shady waterfront village square. The small Gâzi İskender Paşa Camii in the square dates from 1560 and was designed by Sinan.
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Hazzo Pulo Çay Bahçesi
There aren't as many traditional teahouses in Beyoğlu as there are on the Historic Peninsula, so this picturesque cobbled courtyard full of makeshift stools and tables is beloved of local 20-somethings. Order from the waiter and then pay at the small cafe near the narrow arcade entrance. The next-door cafe Grand Boulevard offers more of the same.
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Ark Lıne
One of the motifs of contemporary Turkish fashion is the inspiration local designers take from their Ottoman heritage. Ark Line has followed Gönül Paksoy in referencing the sartorial style of the sultans and their entourages in its collections. The clothes here are nowhere near as assured and desirable as Paksoy’s, but they are considerably cheaper, meaning that they sit within most budgets.
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Kamondo Stairs
The curvaceous 18th-century Kamondo Stairs, one of Beyoğlu’s most distinctive pieces of urban design, run south from Kart Çınar Sokak. Around the corner from the stairs you’ll find the Schneidertempel Art Centre. This art gallery, which is housed in a modest former synagogue, hosts shows of Jewish art, usually contemporary and local in origin.
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Lokal
This place is popular with locals, who monopolise its tables for long breakfasts and lingering coffees. In warmer weather, the front of the space opens to Tünel Sq and provides great people-watching opportunities; when it’s cooler, the velvet-upholstered armchairs are the perfect place to curl up with a coffee and a newspaper. On Friday and Saturday night it functions as a club.
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Istanbul Shore Excursion: Istanbul in One Day Sightseeing Tour
8 hours (Departs Istanbul, Turkey)
by Viator
This sightseeing tour of Istanbul provides the perfect introduction to the fabled city that spans Asia and Europe. On this shore excursion you will see how old…Not LP reviewed
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Museum Of Turkish Calligraphic Art
Housed in a small building at the western side of Beyazıt Square, this museum contains wall hangings and manuscripts illustrating mainly cursive calligraphic styles, many dating from the 13th century. There are also some examples of calligraphy on stone, tile and glass. The building, once the medrese of Beyazıt Camii, is a series of rooms surrounding a leafy courtyard.
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Leyla Eski Eşya Pazarlama
If you love old clothes, you'll adore Leyla Seyhanlı's boutique. Filled to the brim with piles of vintage embroidery and outfits, it's a rummager's delight. It stocks everything from 1950s taffeta party frocks to silk-embroidery cushion covers that would've been at home in the Dolmabahçe Palace linen cupboard.
reviewed
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Namlı
As well as being one of the best delicatessens in the city, Namlı stocks hard-to-find Asian ingredients, imported tea and other treats. Take away your choice from the impressive salad and meze selection, or grab one of the tables at the front and eat in. There's another branch on Harıcılar Caddesi next to the Spice Market in Eminönü.
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Yazmacı Necdet Danış
Fashion designers and buyers from every corner of the globe know that when in İstanbul, this is where to come to source top-quality textiles. It's crammed with bolts of fabric of every description – shiny, simple, sheer and sophisticated – as well as peştemals, scarves and clothes. Murat Danış next door is part of the same operation.
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Ilesam Lokalı
This club in the courtyard of the Koca Sinan Paşa Medrese was formed by the enigmatically named Professional Union of Owners of the Works of Science & Literature. Fortunately, members seem happy for strangers to infiltrate their ranks. After entering the gate to Koca Sinan Paşa’s tomb, go past the cemetery – it’s the second teahouse to the right.
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Kahve Dünyasi
The name means coffee world, and this new coffee chain has the local world at its feet. The secret of its success lies with the huge coffee menu, reasonable prices, delicious chocolate spoons (yes, you read that correctly), comfortable seating and free wi-fi. The filter coffee is better than its espresso-based alternatives. There’s another branch just near the tram stop at Kabataş.
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Ece Aksoy
The cool jazz on the soundtrack suits the warm-toned casual interior of this modern meyhane in trendy Tepebaşı. The lady chef/host here is a true believer in the superiority of local and organic produce, and uses this to make her flavoursome dishes. This is food like Turkish mothers make – it pleases both the heart and the belly. Don’t miss the mezes – they’re sensational.
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Çeşme Hamamı
Its maze-like location in a backstreet behind the hardware stores that litter this part of town often discourages non-local bathhouse action seekers. But this favourite hamam of bears and pot-bellied moustachioed types is worth finding because of the relaxed attitude of the management. Just be careful you don’t stick out like a pink thumb or you’ll incite a feeding frenzy.
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Istinye Park
Perhaps the best of the city’s malls is İstinye Park, located in the upper Bosphorus suburb of İstinye. You’ll find classy department stores Beymen and Vakko here, a slew of prestige international designers, and high-street chains including Banana Republic, Marks & Spencer, Mavi and Zara. Eateries include branches of Mezzaluna and The House Café.
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Abdulla Natural Products
The first of the Western-style designer stores to appear in this ancient marketplace, Abdulla sells top-quality cotton bed linen and towels, handspun woollen throws from Eastern Turkey, cotton peştemals (bath wraps) and pure olive-oil soap. There's another branch in the Fes Cafe in Nuruosmaniye.
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Niyazibey
Niyazibey specialises in perde pilavı, a dish that it describes as hen and rooster meat (symbolising the bride and groom) cooked with rice (for blessing) and almonds (for children) and encased in pastry sheets (symbolising the home). It also serves pides and kebaps. There’s another branch in Kadıköy – neither sell alcohol.
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Cumhuriyet
The atmosphere of this historic place in the Balık Pazarı reeks of nostalgia (the name is Turkish for ‘Republic’ and it’s been around for nearly as long). Photos of Atatürk, who was a regular customer, are a feature. Try and get a table on the 2nd floor; you’ll eat basic, but always fresh, food and listen to good fasıl.
reviewed
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Caudalie Vinothérapie Spa
If you ask the local ladies who lunch to recommend the best spa in town, many will nominate this luxurious place in the basement of the Hotel Les Ottomans. The surrounds are exquisite and the therapists are top-notch. A day pass to use the indoor/outdoor pools, hamam, adventure showers, heated ceramic lounges, whirlpool, sauna, ice fountain and oxygen room costs TL130.
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Boğaziçi Üniversitesi
Above Bebek you'll notice the New England 19th-century-style architecture of the Boğaziçi Üniversitesi. Founded by American missionaries in the mid-19th century as Robert College, the college had an important influence on the modernisation of political, social, economic and scientific thought in Turkey. It was donated to the Turkish Republic in the early 1970s.
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Istanbul City Hop-on Hop-off Tour
90 minutes (Departs Istanbul, Turkey)
by Viator
Under the romantic backdrop of minarets and mosques, like a step out of time stands the ancient city of Istanbul.The only city in the world built on two…Not LP reviewed
from USD$25.99 -
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Brasserie La Brise
Hidden in a narrow street near the Pera Palace Hotel, La Brise leaves no Parisienne cliché unexplored, with Piaf on the sound system, mellow lighting in the dining room and a soupçon of attitude on the part of the waiters. The perfectly cooked fillet steak with Béarnaise or pepper sauce comes with wonderfully thick but crisp pommes frites.
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Gallipoli Day Trip from Istanbul
16 hours (Departs Istanbul, Turkey)
by Viator
A visit to Gallipoli is a moving experience for all visitors to Turkey, particularly for those from the ANZAC nations of Australia and New Zealand. If you are…Not LP reviewed
from USD$131.25