When the Greek settlement was evicted from Ürgüp in 1923, there must have been buckets of tears shed at the borders. Nearly 90 years later and tourists from all over the world are pained to disperse from their temporary boutique residences. Ürgüp is elegant without even trying, like your favourite Turkish aunt who visits once a year. Better still, there's not a lot to do, no obligatory sights to see, just a few restaurants, a fabulous hamam, an up-and-coming winery and, outside of town, valley views that taste like honey on a stick. Perhaps Turkey's hippest rural retreat, Ürgüp is the connoisseurs' base for exploring the geographical heart of Cappadocia.