Things to do in Haarlem
-
A
Frans Hals Museum
The Frans Hals Museum is a must for anyone interested in the Dutch masters. Kept in an almshouse where Hals spent his final, impoverished years, the collection focuses on the 17th-century Haarlem School, which is regarded as the pinnacle of Dutch mannerist art. Eight group portraits by Hals detailing the companies of the Civic Guard are the museum’s pride and joy, revealing the painter’s exceptional attention to mood and psychological tone. Don’t miss his two paintings known collectively as the Regents & the Regentesses of the Old Men’s Almshouse (1664). Among other treasures are ceiling-high illustrations of the human anatomy with biblical and mythological allusi…
reviewed
-
Hofjes
Haarlem is a peaceful city at the rowdiest of times, but even such a serene place needs its fair share of oases. Collectively known as Hofjes - leafy courtyards enclosed by rows of sweet little homes - these green spaces initially served as monastery gardens in the Middle Ages.
Eventually they took on broader roles for hospitals and inns, or as refuges for orphans, widows and the elderly. These private squares also give clues about Dutch social concerns and the origins of the modern welfare state. Most hofjes date from the 15th to the 18th centuries and are open to viewing on weekends only, but you can usually take a discreet peek any time. Ask the tourist office for its …
reviewed
-
B
Teylers Museum
It’s shocking, but depending on your tastes, the Teylers Museum may top Frans Hals. It’s the oldest museum in the country (1778) and contains an array of whiz-bang inventions, such as an 18th-century electrostatic machine that conjures up visions of mad scientists. The eclectic collection also has paintings from the Dutch and French schools and numerous temporary exhibitions. The interiors are as good as the displays: the magnificent, sky-lighted Ovale Zaal (Oval Room) contains natural history specimens in elegant glass cases on two levels.
reviewed
-
C
Corrie Ten Boom House
Also known as ‘the hiding place’, the Corrie Ten Boom House is named for the matriarch of a family that lived in the house during WWII. Using a secret compartment in her bedroom, she hid hundreds of Jews and Dutch resistors until they could be spirited to safety. In 1944 the family was betrayed and sent to concentration camps where three died. Later, Corrie Ten Boom toured the world preaching peace.
reviewed
-
D
Grote Kerk van St Bavo
The Grote Kerk van St Bavo is a Gothic cathedral with a towering 50m-high steeple. It contains some fine Renaissance artworks, but the star attraction is its stunning Müller organ – one of the most magnificent in the world, standing 30m high with about 5000 pipes. It was played by Handel and Mozart, the latter when he was just 10. Free organ recitals take place at 8.15pm Tuesday and Thursday, May to October.
reviewed
-
E
De Hallen
On Grote Markt, the Vleeshal holds contemporary art exhibitions; the Verweyhal next door, in a fancy Renaissance building designed by Lieven de Key, houses the Frans Hals Museum’s collection of modern art, including works by Dutch impressionists and the CoBrA movement. The museums are known collectively as De Hallen.
reviewed
-
F
Grote Markt
Large Grote Markt, with its flanks of restaurants and cafés and a clutch of historical buildings, is a good place to start an exploration of Haarlem. In the centre of the square stands the 17th-century Vleeshal, a former meat market, and the Verweyhal, an old fish market; both serve as modern art annexes of the Frans Hals Museum.
reviewed
-
G
Bakenesserkerk
The striking Bakenesserkerk is a late-15th-century church with a lamp-lit tower of sandstone. The stone was employed here when the Grote Kerk proved too weak to support a heavy steeple – hence the wooden tower of the cathedral we see today. A private firm occupies it but you can still peek inside.
reviewed
-
H
Verweyhal
On Grote Markt, in a fancy Renaissance building, the Verweyhal designed by Lieven de Key, houses the Frans Hals Museum's collection of modern art, including works by Dutch impressionists and the CoBrA movement. This museum, together with the Vleeshal next door, are collectively known as De Hallen.
reviewed
-
I
De Haerlemsche Vlaamse
Practically on the doorstep of the Grote Kerk, this frites (French fries) joint, not much bigger than a telephone box, is a local institution. Line up for its crispy, golden fries made from fresh potatoes. Choose from one of a dozen sauces including three kinds of mayonnaise.
reviewed
Advertisement
-
Lambermon’s Grand Café
The ‘grand’ in the name is almost an understatement at this oh-so-chic corner hot-spot in a beautiful former fashion store. Bottles of champagne are on ice for purchase by the glass; the all-male waiting staff even manages a bit of attitude coupled with élan.
reviewed
-
J
Town Hall
At the western end of Grote Markt stands the florid, 14th-century Town Hall, which sprouted many extensions including a balcony where judgments from the high court were pronounced. The counts' hall contains 15th-century panel paintings and is normally open during office hours.
reviewed
-
K
Proveniershuis
Off Grote Houtstraat to the southwest of Grote Markt stands the Proveniershuis, the former headquarters of St Joris Doelen (the Civic Guards of St George), which started life as an almshouse. Its wonderful old hofje (almshouse) is one of Haarlem's prettiest.
reviewed
-
L
Jacobus Pieck
Touches such as freshly squeezed OJ put this tidy bistro on a higher plane. The menu bursts with fresh dishes, from salads and sandwiches at lunch to more complex pasta and seafood choices at dinner. Staff are welcoming; snag a sunny table on the back patio.
reviewed
-
M
La Forca
On a narrow quiet street, this trattoria (run by a charmer named Guiseppe) has tiled tables in a space as compact as the inside of a cannelloni. Perfect Tuscan and other Italian fare (the parmesan-crusted steak is amazing) draws gaggles of locals.
reviewed
-
N
Nas Brasas
Nas Brasas is a lively tapas restaurant whose convivial, warm atmosphere suits romantic couples and groups alike. The tapas, of which there's a long, long list, are so good that it's almost impossible not to go for a second round.
reviewed
-
O
Proeflokaal In den Uiver
This nautical-themed place has shipping knick-knacks and a schooner sailing right over the bar. There’s jazz on Thursday and Sunday evenings. It’s one of many atmospheric places overlooking the Grote Markt.
reviewed
-
P
Toneelschuur
This bizarre multilevel stage complex (designed by a Dutch cartoonist, Joost Swarte) has a daring agenda of experimental dance, theatre and art-house cinema, and acts as a production house for up-and-coming directors.
reviewed
-
Q
Nieuwe Kerk
Around the corner from the Proveniershuis to the west, down charming Korte Houtstraat, is the 17th-century Nieuwe Kerk; the capricious tower by Lieven de Key is supported by a rather boxy design by Jacob van Campen.
reviewed
-
R
Specktakel
This Dutch diner is vying for UN membership judging by its worldly menu of Australian emu fillet to Indian lamb massala. It's another of Haarlem's long, thin diners, and there's streetside seating for sunny days.
reviewed
Advertisement
-
S
Eko Eetkafé
An offshoot of the Eko organic foods association, this obliging little eatery offers fish and vegetarian dishes with a clear conscience. It's a short walk from the town centre but definitely worth the effort.
reviewed
-
T
Café 1900
This authentic brown café is a little gem, with a fin-de-siècle interior, long bar perfect for propping up, and pleasantly mixed crowd. Live bands and DJs often feature on weekends.
reviewed
-
U
Complimenti
Note the scent of garlic wafting over the street from this picnicker’s heaven of a deli. Varieties of fresh Italian bread, pesto, cheese and more are arrayed in display cases.
reviewed
-
V
Statue of Laurens Coster
On the square north of the Grote Kerk is a Statue of Laurens Coster, whom Haarlemmers believe has a claim, along with Gutenberg, to be called the inventor of movable type.
reviewed
-
W
Patronaat
Haarlem’s top music and dance club attracts bands with banging tunes. Events in this cavernous venue usually start around 9pm unless it’s a midnight rave.
reviewed
