Laem Son National Park

Introducing Laem Son National Park

The Laem Son National Park (0 7782 4224; www.dnp.go.th; adult/child 200/100B) covers 315 sq km of the Kapoe district of Ranong and Khuraburi district in Phang-Nga. This area includes about 100km of Andaman Sea coastline – the longest protected shore in the country – as well as over 20 islands. Much of the coast here is covered with mangrove swamps, home to various species of birds, fish, deer and monkeys (including crab-eating macaques) often seen while driving along the road to the park headquarters.

The most accessible beach is Hat Bang Ben, where the park headquarters are. This long, sandy beach, backed by shady casuarinas, is said to be safe for swimming year-round. From Hat Bang Ben you can see several islands, including the nearby Ko Kam Yai, Ko Kam Noi, Mu Ko Yipun, Ko Khang Khao and, to the north, Ko Phayam. The park staff can arrange boat trips out to any of these islands for 800B per boat per day. During low tide you can walk to an island just a couple of hundred metres from Hat Bang Ben.

Ko Phayam is a friendly, demure little island which supports about 500 inhabitants, mostly Thais and Burmese, with a smattering of expats and a few dozen ethnic chao leh (sea gypsies) thrown into the mix. While spotlighted by two main bays and their pretty beaches, Ko Phayam also has a couple of sizeable forested hills and plenty of scenic agricultural land to boot. Interesting fauna in the area include wild pigs, hornbills, monkeys and snakes. Locals support themselves prawn-fishing, farming cashews and working the rubber plantations.

The island has one ‘village’, where you will find the main pier, a couple of simple eateries, some small grocery stalls and a bar. From the pier area, motorcycle taxis scoot you to the 15 or so basic bungalow operations around the island, almost all of which are on the picturesque bay of Ao Khao Fai. A new motorcycle ‘highway’, running down the middle of Ko Phayam, augments smaller concrete roadways and dirt driveways.

Ko Khang Khao is known for a beach on its northern end, which is covered with colourful pebbles. Although underwater visibility isn’t great here, it’s a little better than on Ko Chang as it’s further from the mouth of the Chan River. The beach on Ko Kam Noi has relatively clear water for swimming and snorkelling (April is the best month), plus the added bonus of fresh water year-round and plenty of grassy areas for camping. One island on the other side of Ko Kam Yai, which can’t be seen from the beach, is Ko Kam Tok (also called Ko Ao Khao Khwai). It’s only about 200m from Ko Kam Yai, and, like Ko Kam Noi, has a good beach, coral, fresh water and a camping ground. Ko Kam Yai is 14km southwest of Hat Bang Ben. It’s a large island with some accommodation (camping and bungalows), a pretty beach and great snorkelling.

About 3km north of Hat Bang Ben, across the canal, is another beach, Hat Laem Son, which is almost always deserted. The only way to get here is to hike from Hat Bang Ben. In the opposite direction, about 50km south of Hat Bang Ben, is Hat Praphat, very similar to Bang Ben, with casuarinas backing the long beach. Sea turtles lay eggs on Hat Praphat. There is a second park office here, which can be reached by road via Hwy 4 (Phetkasem Hwy).

In the canals you ford coming into the park, you may notice the large wooden racks that are used for raising oysters.

Last updated: Jun 18, 2009