Getting there & away
Tanzania is straightforward to enter, whether you arrive at airports or at overland borders. Visas are available at all major points of entry and must be paid for in US dollars cash.
Buses cross the borders between Tanzania and Kenya, Malawi, Uganda and Zambia. Apart from sometimes lengthy waits at the border for passport checks, there are usually no hassles. At the border, you’ll need to disembark on each side to take care of visa formalities, then reboard your bus and continue on. Visa fees are not included in bus-ticket prices for transborder routes. Most main routes go direct, but sometimes you’ll need to walk across the border and change vehicles on the other side.
If you’re arriving via car or motorcycle, you’ll need the vehicle’s registration papers and your license, plus pay for a temporary import permit at the border (TSh20, 000 for one month), third-party insurance (TSh50, 000 for one year) and a one-time fuel levy (TSh5000). You’ll also need a carnet de passage en douane.
Most hire companies don’t permit their vehicles to cross international borders; should you find one that does, arrange the necessary paperwork with them in advance.
Land
Burundi
The main border crossing is at Kobero Bridge between Ngara and Muyinga (Burundi). Although the border is officially open, the security situation ebbs and flows, so get an update from your embassy first. The road between Kigoma and Lusahunga in particular is subject to occasional banditry, and it’s sometimes necessary to travel in a convoy.
Border crossings
The main route to/from Kenya is the sealed road connecting Arusha and Nairobi via the heavily travelled Namanga border post (open 24 hours). The other main border crossing is at Horohoro, north of Tanga.
Mombasa
Scandinavian Express goes daily between Dar es Salaam and Mombasa (TSh19, 000, 10 hours). Buses between Tanga and Mombasa also depart daily (TSh5000 to TSh10, 000, four to five hours).
Nairobi
Scandinavian Express goes daily between Dar es Salaam and Nairobi (TSh38, 000, 13 hours) via Arusha. Scandinavian and Akamba bus lines also have daily buses between Mwanza and Nairobi (TSh23, 000 to TSh28, 000 plus Kenyan visa costs, 12 to 14 hours).
Between Arusha or Moshi and Nairobi, the most popular option is one of the daily shuttle buses. Main companies include the following:
Davanu (www.davanu.com) Arusha (0744 400318, 0744 846160; Hotel Pallsons, Bondeni St, Arusha); Nairobi (254-20-222002; nairobi@davanu.com; 4th fl, Windsor House, University Way) With a desk at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (254-722-310234; davanujkia@davanu.com).
Impala Arusha (027-250 7197; impala@cybernet.co.tz; Impala Hotel, cnr Moshi & Old Moshi Rds, Arusha); Nairobi (254-20-2717373; Silver Springs Hotel, cnr Valley Rd & Argwings Kodhek Rd)
Riverside Arusha (027-250 2639, 027-250 3916; riverside_shuttle@hotmail.com; Sokoine Rd, Arusha); Nairobi (254-20-229618; Room 1, 3rd fl, Pan African Insurance House, Kenyatta Ave) With a branch at Mt Meru Hotel, Moshi Rd, Arusha.
All charge US$25 one way, and with a little prodding, you can sometimes get the residents’ price (US$10). In Arusha, all companies drop you at Mt Meru Hotel, as well as at their offices. In Nairobi, drop-offs are at centrally located hotels and at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport. When flying into Nairobi, shuttle representatives will meet your flight if you’ve booked in advance.
Regular buses also link Arusha and Nairobi daily (TSh9000, six to seven hours). Departures in Arusha are from the bus station; in Nairobi most are from Accra Rd.
Malawi
The only border crossing is at Songwe River bridge (7.30am-6pm Tanzanian time, 6.30am to 5pm Malawian time), southeast of Mbeya.
Buses go three times weekly between Dar es Salaam and Lilongwe, departing Dar es Salaam (TSh47, 000, 27 hours). It’s better to take Scandinavian from Dar to Mbeya, and get onward transport there. From Mbeya, buses depart several times weekly, arriving in Lilongwe the next day (TSh29, 000). There are also daily minibuses connecting both Mbeya and Kyela with the border; once at the border, there’s about a 300m walk to the Malawian side, from where there are minibuses to Karonga.
Mozambique
There are no bridges over the Ruvuma River (the border). The main crossing is at Kilambo (south of Mtwara), where there is a sometimes-operational ferry. It’s also possible to get your passport stamped on the crossing between Newala and Moçimboa do Rovuma (Mozambique). If you travel by boat, there are border officials at Msimbati (Tanzania), and at Palma and Moçimboa da Praia (Mozambique). It’s also reportedly possible to get stamped in at the crossing between Songea and Nova Madeira (Mozambique); otherwise, there’s an immigration office in Songea. Some travellers have reported being turned back (all the way to Dar) for not having a visa. To be on the safe side, get a visa in Dar before setting out for Mozambique.
Pick-ups depart Mtwara daily for the Kilambo border post (TSh3000, one hour), and on to the Ruvuma, which is crossed via dugout canoe (TSh2000, 10 minutes to over an hour, depending on water levels; dangerous during heavy rains). On the Mozambique side, there are usually two pick-ups daily to the Mozambique border post (about 4km further) and on to Moçimboa da Praia (US$7, four hours).
Rwanda
The main border crossing is at Rusumo Falls, southwest of Bukoba. There have been no problems recently, but due to a long history of instability in this region, it’s worth getting an update from your embassy or resident expatriates before setting off.
Daily pick-ups go between Benako (30km southwest of the border) and Rusumu Falls border post. At the border, walk across the bridge to the Rwandan border post, from where minibuses go to Kibungo and on to Kigali (US$5, three hours).
Uganda
The main post is at Mutukula, northwest of Bukoba (although you actually get stamped in and out of Tanzania at Kyaka, about 30km south of the Mutukula border), with good sealed access routes on both sides.
Scandinavian goes daily between Dar es Salaam and Kampala via Nairobi (TSh50, 000, 27 hours) and Arusha. Jaguar/Dolphin and Tawfiq go daily between Bukoba and Kampala (TSh11, 000, five to six hours). From Kampala, Tawfiq continues on to Nairobi and Dar es Salaam (TSh40, 000 plus transit visas for Uganda; US$15) and Kenya (US$20, 36 hours), though if you’re headed to Nairobi it’s better to sleep in Kampala and get another bus the next day.
From Mwanza, Akamba goes four times weekly to/from Kampala (TSh20, 000, 19 hours).
Zambia
The main border crossing is at Tunduma (7.30am-6pm Tanzanian time, 6.30am-5pm Zambian time), southwest of Mbeya.
Scandinavian goes daily between Dar es Salaam and Lusaka via Mbeya (TSh60, 000, 24 hours). Otherwise, minibuses go frequently between Mbeya and Tunduma (TSh2500, two hours), where you walk across the border for Zambian transport to Lusaka (US$20, 18 hours).
The Tanzania–Zambia (Tazara) train line links Dar es Salaam with Kapiri Mposhi in Zambia (TSh55, 000/39, 100/31, 500 in 1st/2nd/economy class, about 40 hours) twice weekly via Mbeya and Tunduma. From Kapiri Mposhi to Lusaka, you’ll need to continue by bus. Tazara also has one slower ‘ordinary’ train weekly between Dar es Salaam and Mbeya and between Kapiri Mposhi and Nakonde (on the Zambian side of the Zambia–Tanzania border, about 20 hours).
Tours
Dozens of tour and safari companies organise package tours to Tanzania. While it’s generally cheaper to organise your tour with a company based in Tanzania, this may be outweighed by the convenience of organising things in advance with a company in your home country.
Air
Tanzania’s major air hub is Dar es Salaam International Airport (code DAR; 022-284 2461, 022-284 4371, ext 2001), but Kilimanjaro International Airport (code JRO; 027-255 4252, 027-255 4707; www.kilimanjaroairport.co.tz) is the best option if you’ll be concentrating on Arusha and the northern safari circuit. There are also international flights to/from Zanzibar International Airport (code ZNZ). Mwanza Airport (code MWZ) and Mtwara Airport (code MYW) handle some regional flights.
Air Tanzania (airline code TC; 022-211 8411, 022-284 4239; www.airtanzania.com ; ATC Bldg, Ohio St, Dar es Salaam, Terminal 2, Dar es Salaam International Airport) is the national airline, with its hub at Dar es Salaam International Airport. It operates in partnership with South African Airways and is generally efficient and reliable. Regional and international routes include Nairobi (Kenya) to Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar, and Dar es Salaam to Entebbe (Uganda) and Johannesburg (South Africa). Credit cards are accepted at its Dar es Salaam office only.
The other major commercial carrier is Precision Air (airline code PW; 022-212 1718, 022-284 3547, in Arusha 027-250 2818, 027-250 6903, in Zanzibar 024-223 4520; www.precisionairtz.com ; hub Dar es Salaam), which, in partnership with Kenya Airways, has flights from Nairobi to Dar es Salaam, Kilimanjaro and Zanzibar, and between Mombasa (Kenya) and Dar es Salaam via Zanzibar, plus numerous domestic routes.
Other regional and international carriers flying to/from Tanzania include the following (with useful flights between Tanzania and elsewhere in East Africa highlighted). All airlines service Dar es Salaam, except as noted.
Air Burundi (airline code 8Y; airbdi@cbinf.com) Bujumbura to Kigoma.
Air India (airline code AI; 022-215 2642; www.airindia.com ; cnr Ali Hassan Mwinyi & Bibi Titi Mohamed Rds, Dar es Salaam)
Air Kenya (airline code REG; 027-250 2541, in Nairobi 020-601727; www.airkenya.com). Nairobi to Kilimanjaro.
British Airways (airline code BA; 022-211 3820, 022-284 4082; www.britishairways.com ; Mövenpick Royal Palm Hotel, Ohio St, Dar es Salaam)
Coastal Aviation Airport (284 3293; Terminal One); Dar es Salaam (211 7959/60; aviation@coastal.cc; Upanga Rd)
Egyptair (airline code MS; 022-211 0333; www.egyptair.com.eg)
Emirates Airlines (airline code EK; 022-211 6100; www.emirates.com ; Haidery Plaza, cnr Kisutu & India Sts, Dar es Salaam)
Ethiopian Airlines (airline code ET; 022-211 7063; www.flyethiopian.com ; Ohio St, Dar es Salaam) Opposite Mövenpick Royal Palm Hotel. Also flies to Kilimanjaro International Airport (KIA).
Kenya Airways (airline code KQ; 022-211 9376/7; www.kenya-airways.com ; Upanga Rd, cnr Ali Hassan Mwinyi & Bibi Titi Mohamed Rd, Dar es Salaam) Nairobi and Mombasa to Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar.
KLM (airline code KL; 022-213 9790/1, in Arusha 027-250 8062/3; www.klm.com ; Upanga Rd, Dar es Salaam) Also serves KIA.
Linhas Aéreas de Moçambique (airline code TM; 022-213 4600; www.lam.co.mz ; Ground fl, JM Mall, Samora Ave, Dar es Salaam) At Fast-Track Travel, www.fasttracktanzania.com.
Oman Air (airline code OMA; 024-223 8308; www.oman-air.com ; Ground fl, JM Mall, Samora Ave, Dar es Salaam) Also serves Zanzibar International Airport.
Precision Air Airport (284 3547; Terminal Two); City Centre (212 1718; cnr Samora Ave & Pamba Rd)
Rwandair Express (www.rwandair.com) Kigali to KIA.
South African Airways (airline code SA; 022-211 7044; www.flysaa.com ; Raha Towers, cnr Bibi Titi Mohamed & Ali Hassan Mwinyi Rds, Dar es Salaam)
Swiss International Airlines (airline code LX; 022-211 8870; www.swiss.com ; Luther House, Sokoine Dr, Dar es Salaam)
Yemenia Yemen Airways (airline code IY; 022-212 6036; www.yemenairways.net ; Ohio St, Dar es Salaam) Opposite Mövenpick Royal Palm Hotel.
ZanAir (284 3297; www.zanair.com ; Terminal One, Airport)
Chimpanzee Safaris (028-280 4435/7, 0741 620154; www.chimpanzeesafaris.com) runs regularly scheduled charters between Kigoma (Tanzania) and Kigali (Rwanda) – useful if you’re combining gorillas and chimpanzees.
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