Things to do in Tahiti & French Polynesia
-
Marama Tattoo
For traditionally designed tattoos head to Marama Tattoo in Matira Point. Popular, sterile and reliable.
reviewed
-
Musée Gauguin
The Musée Gauguin is definitely worth a visit. Much of the text about Gauguin and his life is in English, and although the museum is dimly lit and there is a conspicuous lack of original works by Gauguin, there’s a lovely natural setting. The museum gardens are home to three superb tiki from Raivavae in the Australs. Tiki do not like to be moved, and there are colourful stories about what happened to the men that moved these tiki here (they apparently died ‘mysteriously’ within weeks of the move). The huge tiki figure beside the walkway stands 2.2m high and weighs 900kg; it’s a baby compared with the figure towards the waterfront, which stands 2.7m high and weighs…
reviewed
-
Bloody Mary’s
Bloody Mary’s isn’t just a restaurant, it’s an experience, especially at dinner. You walk on sand floors, sit on coconut stools under a thatched roof and are surrounded by exotic plants. The food impresses, too; you choose your meal from an extensive display at the entrance, with a presentation in English. Fish lovers will get a buzz here, with a tantalising array of lagoon fish and pelagics, but dedicated carnivores are also well catered for, with meat cooked the American-barbecue way. A bit touristy, but it’s a concept that has been cult since 1979, and it’s a favourite with celebrities, so go with the flow.
reviewed
-
Le St James
Don’t be deterred by the odd location – the place is hidden in the back of a small shopping centre in Vaitape – for once inside, you’ll find French specialities with a bow to local ingredients, such as blanc de volaille aux cèpes et riz à l’ananas (poultry with cep mushrooms and rice with pineapple). Let the sea breeze whip through your hair while dining alfresco on the deck above the lagoon. Lunch is a tamer (and less expensive) affair, with salads, burgers and grilled fish.
reviewed
-
Chez Yvonne – Restaurant Hinakonui
Hmm, just recalling the lobster flambéed with whisky makes us drool. The goat with coconut milk is another palate-pleaser in this authentic Marquesan restaurant run by Yvonne Katupa, a well-known personality on the island of Nuku Hiva. Bookings are recommended, otherwise you might find the kitchen closed if there aren’t enough customers. It’s a relaxing spot, with an open-air thatched terrace opening onto the seafront. Sadly, the five boxy bungalows are starting to show their age, with saggy mattresses and sombre bathrooms, but the location, on a grassy property facing a bay, is fantastic. However, they’re convenient enough to flop down for the night and to set off early…
reviewed
-
Rangiroa
Rangiroa, in the Tuamotu Archipelago, is the second-biggest atoll in the world, behind Kwajalein in Micronesia. It measures 75km (46.6mi) by 25km (15.5mi) and is the most populated island in the archipelago. Its lagoon is more like a vast inland sea and dry land exists as a narrow chain of sandy motu (islets) encircling this huge waterway.
Divers come to Rangiroa from all over the world; the lagoon's configuration and tide movements cause powerful currents that they 'surf'. The lagoon is also home to a great abundance of diverse marine life. Pearl farming and mother-of-pearl production are important to the local economy.
reviewed
-
Villa Mahana
A true alchemist, the French chef Damien Rinaldi has got the magic formula right, fusing Mediterranean with Polynesian to create stunning cuisine. Will it be beef fillet with Provence herbs or pumpkin soup with vanilla and coconut milk? The choice is a challenge. Exquisite execution extends to the small dessert selection: the fondant au chocolat (chocolate cake) provides a flavour explosion. It’s housed in a stylish villa reminiscent of Provence, with lots of ochre and yellow tones. Perfect for a romantic tête à tête, but be sure to book well in advance – there are only seven tables. No sign.
reviewed
-
Huahine Lagoon
The lagoon around Huahine is one of those picture-perfect azure visions for which French Polynesia is famous, but to truly experience paradise you’ll need to set sail for an untouched motu – the beaches are isolated and fantastic. To explore the lagoon and motu on your own, head to Huahine Lagoon at the end of the main street in Fare. It hires out boats with outboard motors, as well as kayaks and bicycles. Nautical maps and scuba equipment are provided but you have to pay for fuel. There are no set hours, so just stop by and see if it’s open.
reviewed
-
Jardin Botanique
The 137-hectare Jardin Botanique has walking paths that wind their way through the garden past ponds, palms and a superb mape forest. The gardens were founded in 1919 by an American, Harrison Smith, who introduced many plants to Tahiti including the large Southeast Asian pomelo known on Tahiti as pamplemousse, the French word for grapefruit. Unfortunately, Smith also introduced one or two botanical disasters that Tahiti could well have done without. Look out for the huge Galápagos tortoises. Mosquitoes in the gardens can be fierce.
reviewed
-
Taravao
Strategically situated at the narrow isthmus connecting Tahiti Nui with Tahiti Iti, the town of Taravao has been a military base on and off since 1844, when the first French fort was established. The original fort was intended to forestall Tahitian guerrilla forces opposed to the French takeover from mounting operations against Tahiti Nui from Tahiti Iti. Today the Faratea Port, on the northeastern side of the isthmus, is being built to shift commercial sea trade from Pape’ete (which is getting gussied up for tourists) to Taravao.
reviewed
Advertisement
-
Le Matira Beach Restaurant
In this ‘gourmet bistro’, there are enough ambitiously poetic names to tempt the gourmand in you, such as transparence de foie gras poêlé (pan-fried foie gras). Lunch has a casual atmosphere, but dinner is a romantic affair. Another clincher is the agreeable terrace overlooking the beach. Pastry chef Nicolas forces tough choices upon you. Will it be his classic crumble glacé (iced crumble) or his intense moelleux de banane au coeur coulant de chocolat noir (banana cake with melted dark choc)? Life is brief; get both.
reviewed
-
Les Ateliers ‘Te Oro’
Les Ateliers ‘Te Oro’ offers two-, three- and five-day Tahitian dance workshops (from two to four hours per day) for adults and children from age 11. Courses are in French and English and special arrangements can be made for Japanese speakers. Group courses run throughout the year but you can also arrange private or individual courses. Prices depend on group size and the length of the course. The same school runs classes on Mo’orea as well. Reserve by email a few weeks in advance.
reviewed
-
Huahine Nui Pearls & Pottery
While in Faie, visit Huahine Nui Pearls & Pottery. Peter Owen, the owner, is a potter as well as a pearl farmer and his work is shown in Pape’ete’s galleries. His studio is on his pearl farm in the middle of the lagoon. From Faie a ferry departs for the studio every 15 minutes from 10am to 4pm. Upon arrival you’ll be given a demonstration of pearl farming and have an opportunity to browse the collection of pearls inside the shop – they’re particularly well priced.
reviewed
-
La Bounty
This buzzy restaurant in an open-air thatched-roof building is a good place to soak up the tropical climes and indulge in fine dining without breaking the bank. The sand-floor dining room is decorated with dense foliage, bamboo walls and wooden furniture. Alas, no lagoon views to speak of. The menu is eclectic and inventive – salads and spaghetti au thon frais (spaghetti with fresh tuna) sit happily alongside flavoursome thin-crust pizzas and even fondue.
reviewed
-
La Petite Ferme
To see the island from the back of a horse, visit La Petite Ferme, on the main road between Fare and the airport. The two-hour ride along the beach, through coconut plantations and around the shore of Lake Fauna Nui is truly enchanting. Longer excursions include an all-day ride (12,000 CFP), during which you’ll visit a vanilla plantation, and stop for a picnic lunch and snorkelling. The horses are suitable for all levels as well as for children.
reviewed
-
Motu Moea – Restaurant la Plage
This place has an idyllic setting on Motu Tiahura (also known as Motu Moea). The food is fresh and tasty, and fancy, fruity cocktails are also available. Take a dip (or swim back to whence you came) once you’ve digested your meal – this is the life! You can get a boat over to the motu (500 CFP) from Les Tipaniers Hotel & Restaurant or the Intercontinental Moorea Resort & Spa – or stuff your money in a ziplock plastic bag and swim.
reviewed
-
Huahine Randonee
For serious hiking, including treks to the tops of either Mt Tapu on Huahine Nui or Mt Pohue Rahi on Huahine Iti, both of which offer sublime views of rolling mountains and the nearly fluorescent lagoon, contact Terii at Huahine Randonee. Terii has limited English skills but is extremely friendly and competent – if you speak French, Tahitian or Croatian he can tell you all about the local flora, history and archaeology.
reviewed
-
Musée de Tahiti et des Îles
Only 15km from Pape’ete along the west coast, the excellent Musée de Tahiti et des Îles is in Puna’auia. The museum is divided into four sections: geography and natural history; pre-European culture; the European era; and outdoor exhibits. It’s in a large garden and if you get tired of history, culture and art, you can wander out to the water’s edge to watch the surfers at one of Tahiti’s most popular breaks.
reviewed
-
La Maison de la Nature du Mou’a Roa
La Maison de la Nature du Mou’a Roa is superbly set up for children ages five to 16 and accepts foreign children to many of its holiday camp programs that run throughout the year. Kids hike, learn about the local flora, build shelters, listen to local legends and have a grand old time. It’s all in French, of course, but the owners speak some English and it’s a great opportunity for kids to learn some French.
reviewed
-
Musée de Tahiti et des Îsles
The excellent Musée de Tahiti et des Îsles has one of the best collections in the Pacific. This is a great place to get your head around the geology, history, culture and art of the area. The museum is divided into four sections: geography and natural history; pre-European culture; the European era; and outdoor exhibits. One bonus of visiting this museum is that outside is one of Tahiti's most popular surf breaks.
reviewed
Advertisement
-
Espace Culturel Paul Gauguin
For Gauguin fans, a visit to the refurbished Espace Culturel Paul Gauguin is a must. Don’t get too excited, though; you won’t find any originals, just digital copies of his work. The detailed signs in English are very informative. Once you’ve done a full round of the paintings, timeline and literature, head outside and have a look at the Maison du Jouir (House of Pleasure), a replica of Gauguin’s own house.
reviewed
-
Hiva Oa
Hiva Oa contains some wonderful archaeological sites. One such place is Iipona, an exceptional me'ae (sacred site) featuring five monumental tiki (carved human figures). In the Faakua Valley are the Tehueto petroglyphs, where stylised, horizontal human figures have been carved into an enormous basalt block. The island is also noteworthy for being home to Belgian crooner Jacques Brel from 1975 to 1978.
reviewed
-
New Te Marara
In a great location right on the lagoon, this lively restaurant is a favourite local watering hole and the best place to eat around Fare. With polished oyster shells nailed to the walls and coloured lights strewn from the thatched ceiling, it has a beach-bar vibe and cooks a mean shrimp curry. The menu is meat- and seafood-based, portions are generous and dishes come with a choice of starch or vegetable on the side.
reviewed
-
Bora Kaina Hut
The Kaina Hut ticks all the boxes for an idyllic island experience. Romantic interior with candlelit tables, wooden furniture and sand floor. Check. Well-presented food befitting the setting. Check. Attentive service and soothing soundtrack. Check. The oysters, mussels, lagoon fish or raw fish duo and tempura prawns sing of the sea, but don’t miss the desserts (profiteroles with coconut and chocolate? More please).
reviewed
-
Jean & Nadine Oberlin
If you’re looking for souvenirs, it’s not a bad idea to stop at Jean & Nadine Oberlin, a couple from Alsace who fell in love with Hanaiapa long ago. They make lovely tapa (with a contemporary twist) as well as engraved calabashes. Their house (and workshop) is right at the entrance of the village, about 200m from the turn-off to the petroglyphs here (look for the ‘Artisanat’ sign).
reviewed