Things to do in Sweden
-
Ájtte Museum
The welcoming and illuminating Ájtte Museum is the highlight of a visit to Jokkmokk; it’s Sweden’s most thorough introduction to Sami culture, including traditional costume, silverware and some 400-year-old magical painted shamans’ drums. Look for replicas of sacrificial sites and a diagram explaining the uses and significance of various reindeer entrails. One section details the widespread practice of harnessing the rivers in Lappland for hydroelectric power and the consequences this has had for the Sami people and their territory. There are extensive notes in English. The museum also has a very practical section, with information on Lappland’s mountain areas, including…
reviewed
-
A
Gammelstad
If you just can’t get enough of those little red Swedish cottages with the white trim and lace curtains, head for the mother lode: the Unesco World Heritage–listed Gammelstad. This little settlement – row after zigzaggy row of cute little red-and-white cottages – was the medieval centre of northern Sweden. The stone church (from 1492), 424 wooden houses (where the pioneers stayed overnight on their weekend pilgrimages) and six church stables remain. Many of the buildings are still in use, but some are open to the public and the site is lovely to walk around. Guided tours (Skr30) leave from the Gammelstad tourist office every hour on the hour between 10am and 4pm from…
reviewed
-
B
Alnö Gamla Kyrka
The large island just east of Sundsvall, Alnö, has the magnificent Alnö Gamla Kyrka, 2km north of the bridge (at Vi). The old church, below the road, is a mixture of 12th- and 15th-century styles. Whitewashing damaged the lower parts of the wall paintings in the 18th century, but the upper wall and ceiling paintings are nearly perfect. The painting was probably done by one of Albertus Pictor’s pupils. Even better is the late 11th-century carved wooden font in the new church across the road; the upper part combines Christian and Viking symbolism, while the lower part shows beasts that embody evil. Catch bus 1 to Vi (two or three hourly), then take a Plus bus to the…
reviewed
-
C
Stadshuset
Built in the National Romantic style using eight million bricks and completed in 1923, Stockholm’s iconic City Hall is home of the Nobel Banquet, held in the Italianate Blue Hall, which is in fact red. More accurately named is the Golden Hall, a glittering spectacle made with 10kg of gold and 68 million mosaic pieces. Tours of the building are fascinating, while a soulful chill on the waterside terrace (the sculptures are by Carl Eldh) is free. For breathtaking views over Gamla Stan, head to the top of the hulking tower. That the tower is exactly 1m taller than Copenhagen’s slightly older City Hall tower is no coincidence – neighbourly rivalries are hard to quench.
reviewed
-
D
Urban Outfitters
That the exterior of trendy concept store Urban Outfitters has a certain star quality is no coincidence. The building used to house the Röda Kvarn (Moulin Rouge), a gorgeous vintage picture palace. While the projectors have gone, the heritage features remain, from the decadent chandeliers to the beautiful hardwood details. Where film buffs once sat, House of Holland T-shirts sit beside Dita Von Teese art books and Bad Boyfriend Voodoo Dolls. Fitting rooms line the grand old stage behind a kitschy mock-chateau facade, and the upstairs foyers now premiere the work of new Stockholm artists. A case of clever conservation or consumerist degradation? You be the judge.
reviewed
-
E
Jamtli
Don’t miss Jamtli, 1km north of the town centre. It combines an open-air museum park (à la Skansen in Stockholm) with a first-rate regional culture museum. In the outdoor section, guides wearing period costumes explain the traditions of the area. A perpetual stroller convention goes on at Hackåsgården, the large section of the park set aside for the tiniest tots. Indoors, the regional museum exhibits the Överhogdal Tapestry, a Christian Viking relic from around 1100 that features animals, people, ships and buildings (including churches). It’s one of the oldest of its kind in Europe and may even predate the famous Bayeux tapestry.
reviewed
-
Sarek National Park
The best hiking in this area, at least for experienced and well-kitted trekkers, is in Sarek National Park. Full of sharp peaks and huge glaciers, its largest valley, Rapadalen, is lush with birch and willow trees. The Kungsleden trail dips briefly into Sarek, at the southeastern corner of the park. Trekking here is certainly not for the casual walker, and hikers must be prepared for very rugged conditions. Major trails are often washed out or in poor repair, and the extremes of terrain make for volatile weather conditions. There are no tourist facilities within the park, so be sure to check with an STF lodge or the National Park office before setting out.
reviewed
-
F
Maritiman
Near the opera house, the world’s largest floating ship museum is made up of 20 historical crafts, including fishing boats, a light vessel and a firefighter, all linked by walkways. Shinny down into the 69m-long submarine Nordkaparen for a throat-tightening glimpse into underwater warfare. Another highlight is the labyrinthine 121m-long destroyer Småland, which saw service from 1952 to 1979. Inside, hunched figures listen to crackling radio messages, and the bunks look just-slept-in – you half expect to meet uniformed sailors in the dim, twisting passages… Allow a couple of hours to explore.
reviewed
-
G
Katarina Kyrka
Designed by Jean de la Vallée and completed in 1695, the sublimely beautiful Katarina Kyrka stands on the 1520 burial site of the Stockholm Bloodbath victims – the betrayed Swedish nobility trapped, beheaded and burnt for opposing King Christian II’s Danish invasion. The church itself caught fire in 1723. After it was restored, history repeated itself in 1990 when fire brought down the cupola. It’s since been painstakingly reconstructed using 17th-century building methods. Assassinated foreign minister Anna Lindh lies buried in its leafy cemetery. Organ music fills the church at noon on Tuesday and Thursday.
reviewed
-
H
Universeum
The spectacular Universeum is a top spot for families and nature fiends. A funicular takes you to the top of an indoor mountain, from where you follow the course of a Scandinavian stream down through rivers and lakes to the sea – shark tunnel ahoy! Things take a tropical turn in the absorbing rainforest: birds and butterflies flitter, while more gruesome denizens dwell in Piranha River, Caiman Creek, Anaconda Swamp and Stingray Lagoon. When you’re done, go button crazy with the fantastically fun, hands-on science exhibitions, where themes range from nanotechnology and space travel to mixing music.
reviewed
Advertisement
-
I
Chokladfabriken
Cocoa addicts swear by this savvy chocolate peddler, whose head chocolatier Martin Isaksson trained at the Maison du Chocolat in Paris. Bite into the cardamom praline and you’ll be hooked. One line of chocolates features artwork by graphic designer Katy Kimbell, and the regular evening tasting sessions (Skr320, 90 minutes) are coveted affairs (book two to three months ahead). Best of all, you can kick back in the adjoining cafe and succumb to Stockholm’s dreamiest hot chocolate (made with 70% cocoa dark chocolate). There’s also a branch in Norrmalm and another one in Östermalm on Grevgatan 37.
reviewed
-
J
Riddarhuset
Admirers of architecture shouldn’t miss this 17th-century Dutch baroque masterpiece, designed by Simon de la Vallée, Heinrich Wilhelm, Joost Vingboons and Jean de la Vallée. Used by the Swedish parliament between 1641 and 1674, it still hosts the triennial Assembly of Nobles. While the chancellery houses some 300 pieces of heraldic porcelain, the real scene-stealer is the Great Hall, plastered with 2345 coats of arms belonging to Swedish nobility, as well as a precious ivory-carved land-marshall’s chair from 1625 and a beautiful ceiling painting by 17th-century artist David Klöcker Ehenstrahl.
reviewed
-
Atoklimpen
For anyone interested in Sami culture, it’s worth going out of your way to visit Atoklimpen, a holy mountain that has been the object of worship from the nomadic society’s early days. Evidence of sacrifices, camping and reindeer herding are scattered across the area; a 3km trail leads up to the top. Near the car park (off Rd 1116) is a peat hut and a small cottage. A Sami couple built the hut in 1920 and the cottage in 1925, at a time when the Sami were forbidden to build permanent structures; the ensuing debate over the cottage helped to change the law. The surrounding area still serves as a reindeer breeding ground.
reviewed
-
K
Hallwylska Museet
Looking as if it’s straight out of an Agatha Christie murder mystery, this kooky fin de siècle palace was once the home of cashed-up Count Walther von Hallwyl and his wife Wilhelmina, a notorious collector who took hoarding to new heights. The mansion’s lavish rooms are packed with the fruits of her labour, from 16th-century tapestries and Flemish paintings to rare silver teapots, oriental guns, vintage toiletries and even her children’s teeth. For in-depth voyeurism, join the one-hour guided tour (in English; Skr40; at 1pm Sunday, and at 1pm daily from late June to mid-August).
reviewed
-
L
Sjöfartsmuseet
The main museum of maritime history is Sjöfartsmuseet, by Stigberg-storget about 2km west of the city centre. Tram 3, 9 or 11 will get you there. The collection includes model ships, cannons, a ship’s medical room and a large collection of figureheads, such as the vicious-looking Vinthunden from the frigate with the same name. The attached aquarium (included in the entry fee) wriggles with Nordic marine life. Outside, the Sjömanstornet (Mariner’s Tower), topped by a statue of a grieving woman, commemorates Swedish sailors killed in WWI.
reviewed
-
Landet
Designed by Konstfack Academy graduates and set in a converted suburban post office 100m north of the Telefonplan metro station, restaurant-bar Landet is a hit with Stockholm’s design crowd. In the oh-so-now dining room, they nosh on award-winning Swedish-French grub before heading up to the burlesque-fabulous bar. Here, red velvet drapes, strung coloured lights and gold graphic wall art set the scene for anything from DJ-spun electronica and jazz to live indie acts and the odd performance-art piece. And if that wasn’t enough, the cinnamon-laced orange tequila is simply divine.
reviewed
-
Röda Sten
Occupying a defunct, graffitied power station beside the giant Älvsborgsbron, Röda Sten is one of Sweden’s coolest art centres. Its four gritty floors are home to any number of temporary exhibitions, ranging from edgy Swedish photography to New York sound installations. There’s an indie-style cafe with summertime riverside seating, weekly live music and club nights and offbeat one-offs like punk bike races, boxing matches and stand-up comedy. To get there, take tram 3 or 9 to Vagnhallen Majorna, walk towards Klippan, continue under Älvsborgsbron and look for the brown-brick building.
reviewed
-
M
Strindbergsmuseet
Set inside the Blå Tornet apartment where playwright and author August Strindberg spent his final four years, the Strindberg Museum lets you peep into his closet, scan his bookshelves and stumble across his desk, which still bears his pens, spectacles, theatrical program sheets and a copy of his Ockulta Dagboken (The Occult Diary, 1896–1908). The museum organises Strindberg-themed readings and seminars (occasionally in English; contact the museum for information). Those left longing for more should check out Strindberg’s disturbingly dark paintings at the Nordiska Museet.
reviewed
-
N
Stockholms Stadsmuseum
History gets a multisensory makeover at the brilliant Stockholm City Museum, housed in a building designed by Nicodemus Tessin the Elder and once used as a dungeon. Inside, a time-line exhibition traces Stockholm’s development from fortified port to modern metropolis via plague, fire and good old-fashioned scandal. You can smell medieval potions, peek into an 18th-century tavern and lust at the legendary Lohe Treasure, 20kg of 18th-century silver discovered in 1937. The temporary exhibitions are nothing short of refreshing, from Johan Hagelbäck’s ‘Raisin Art’ to the culture of death in Stockholm.
reviewed
-
O
Historiska Museet
From Iron Age ice-skates to Renaissance triptychs, Sweden’s prime historical collection spans nearly 14,000 years of Swedish history and culture. The undisputed highlight is the subterranean Gold Room, a brooding chamber gleaming with Viking bling and rare historical jewels. The most astonishing artefact is the 5th-century, seven-ringed gold collar with 458 carved figures, which weighs 823g. Found in Västergötland in the 19th century, it was probably used by pagan priests in ritualistic ceremonies. To use the museum’s fantastic free digital audio guides, bring some ID.
reviewed
Advertisement
-
P
Millesgården
Well worth the effort to reach it, beautiful Millesgården was the home and studio of sculptor Carl Milles, whose delicate water sprites and other whimsical sculptures dot the city landscape. The grounds include a crisp modern gallery for changing exhibitions of contemporary art, Milles’ elaborately Pompeiian house, and an exquisite outdoor sculpture garden, where items from ancient Greece, Rome, medieval times and the Renaissance intermingle with Milles’ own creations. There’s also a museum shop and a cafe. Take the metro to Ropsten, then bus 207.
reviewed
-
Q
Almgrens Sidenväveri Museum
Knut August Almgren founded this historic weaving factory in 1883 using parts of a Jacquard loom smuggled from France in barrels of cognac. (The art of Jacquard weave looming was a guarded French secret, forcing the crafty Almgren to pose as a Frenchman in order to learn, and steal, the craft.) It’s now an adorable working museum; you can watch the weavers work the original Jacquard looms between 10am and 3pm Monday to Thursday, learn about Sweden’s silk weaving history and swoon over shimmering fabrics. The museum shop is Stockholm’s best bet for hand-woven products.
reviewed
-
R
Museum Gustavianum
A wondercabinet of wondercabinets, the Museum Gustavianum rewards appreciation of the weird and well organised. The shelves in the pleasantly musty building hold case after case of obsolete tools and preserved oddities, like Joseph Cornell shadowboxes gone wrong: stuffed birds, astrolabes, alligator mummies, exotic stones and dried sea creatures. Holding wider appeal is the 17th-century Augsburg Art Cabinet and its thousand ingenious trinkets. Don’t miss Olof Rudbeck’s vertiginous anatomical theatre, where executed criminals were dissected.
reviewed
-
S
Storkyrkan
One-time venue of royal weddings and coronations, Stockholm’s 700-year-old cathedral is also its oldest parish church. The Gothic-cum- baroque interior includes extravagant royal-box pews designed by Nicodemus Tessin the Younger and the famous Parhelion Painting, a 1630 copy of the earlier original depicting Stockholm during an eerie display of atmospheric optics in 1535. The star attraction, however, is German Berndt Notke’s dramatic Gothic sculpture St George and the Dragon, commissioned by Sten Sture the Elder to commemorate his victory over the Danes in 1471.
reviewed
-
Grönåsens Ålgpark
For a close encounter with a beautiful bandy-legged elk, head for Grönåsens Ålgpark, Sweden’s biggest elk park, located 3km west of Kosta towards Orrefors. You can admire these gentle creatures on a 1.3km walk in the forested enclosure (Skr40). Ironically, you can also buy elk sausages to roast on the outdoor barbecue or purchase an elk-skin baseball cap. And, talking of horror, don’t miss the display in the building behind the shop: you’ll drive 50% slower after you’ve seen the crumpled metal and lolling tongue…
reviewed