Things to do in Novi Sad
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Petrovaradin Citadel
The most impressive sight in Novi Sad is the Petrovaradin Citadel. A massive piece of work perched on a hill overlooking the river, it is often referred to as the 'Gibraltar of the Danube'. Designed by the French architect Vauban, it was built by slaves, murderers and thieves who were 'earning their purgatory' in the process dubbed by many as hell. It is estimated that 70 to 80 men died per day in the 88 years it took to build the citadel (from 1692 to 1780).
Petrovaradin was built to protect the town from Turkish invasions and was mainly populated by Austro-Hungarian army soldiers, although historical characters like Karađorđe and Tito were held prisoners within its wall…
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Clock Tower
The citadel's clock tower was erected by the Germans, who then introduced a 'clock tax' for each house that could see the clock - practically the entire town. The old clockwork has not been changed (perhaps because the tax is no more) so the clock is a little slow in the winter, when the cold temperatures make the metal contract, and fast in the summer, when the mechanism relaxes. The hour hand is the longer one, so that everyone can tell what the hour is from a distance.
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Kod Lipa
A great atmosphere that beams you into a different age and good traditional Vojvodinian cooking are a seductive combination, making this the place to eat in Novi Sad. Opened in the late 19th century, the yellowed photographs on the wall show the place looking exactly the same then and now. Descend into the converted cellars and smell mellow wine in the vast barrels; there is seating among them within secluded alcoves.
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Red Cow
Is this the long-lost partner of Red Bull? A young crowd spends its evenings in this busy Irish publike bar with a wooden interior and tons of seating in the bar area and the upstairs attic room. A relaxed atmosphere and 16 different kinds of bottled beer, as well as draught Guinness and Nikšičko. Go into the courtyard opposite the city library on Zmaj Jovina, and climb to the 1st floor.
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Plava Frajle
A popular knees-up restaurant just southwest of the centre. On Thursdays and weekends traditional music bands play their hearts out, the clientele join in with gusto and the party rips on until dawn. A good taster of local food is the paprika u pavlaci (an appetiser of yellow peppers in crème fraîche). We never understood why there were chairs fixed to the ceiling.
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Vojvodina Museum
The main museum in Novi Sad is Vojvodina Museum, housed in two buildings. No 35 covers the history of Vojvodina from Palaeolithic times to the late 19th century; No 37 takes the story to 1945 with an emphasis on WWI and WWII. The collection is impressive in its thoroughness, with the main explanatory panels in English.
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Artists' Studios
The charming artists' studios are in the inner citadel, and visitors are welcome to explore. The artists are relaxed and friendly, chatting or snoozing when not busy working. Maybe over a coffee you'll find just that piece for back home.
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Evropa
A place every calorie-fearing woman should run a mile from because the cakes and ice creams are so beguiling. You can sit down or takeaway. Try žito, the traditional dessert made of crushed wheat and walnuts.
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Šecuan
It's unlikely that you will eat a better Chinese meal in Serbia. Opened especially for 1981 when Novi Sad hosted the world table tennis championship, it wowed the Chinese team back in the 1980s and still excels today.
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Dunavska Oaza
A fish restaurant that looks as if it were designed by a nostalgic sailor, with dangling fish nets and blue-and-white life buoys on the walls. Try some of the fresh Danube fish at DIN1000 per kilo.
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Nešić
Worth a visit as much to buy a squidgy cake as to appreciate the interior of this 1950s cake shop that's still spick-and-span with red leatherette bench seats.
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Gorki List
Zebra-print armchairs and comfy cushions are ideal for lounging over a morning coffee, afternoon tea or evening drink. Slap bang in the centre.
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Planetarium
Also inside the Petrovaradin Citadel's grounds is a planetarium.
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