Things to do in Astrakhan
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A
Velimir Khlebnikov Museum
The Velimir Khlebnikov Museum is dedicated to a futurist poet who – together with Mayakovsky and the gang – issued a manifesto urging fellow writers ‘to throw Pushkin out of the steamship of modernity’ and tell Dostoyevsky the news. The museum is located in a flat where his biologist father moved when he founded what is now the Astrakhan Biosphere Reserve.
reviewed
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B
Nikolsky Gate
Buildings inside the large 16th-century fortress on top of Zayachy Hill, including the Nikolsky Gate in the north wall, house rather mundane cultural and historical exhibits. The most interesting is in the Red Gate, in the kremlin's western corner, which also provides a panoramic view of city and river. The Ethnographic Museum is also on the grounds of the kremlin.
reviewed
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C
Ethnographic Museum
Buildings inside the large 16th-century fortress on top of Zayachy Hill, including the Nikolsky Gate in the north wall, house rather mundane cultural and historical exhibits. The most interesting is in the Red Gate, in the kremlin's western corner, which also provides a panoramic view of city and river. The Ethnographic Museum is also on the grounds of the kremlin.
reviewed
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D
Red Gate
Buildings inside the large 16th-century fortress on top of Zayachy Hill, including the Nikolsky Gate in the north wall, house rather mundane cultural and historical exhibits. The most interesting is in the Red Gate, in the kremlin's western corner, which also provides a panoramic view of city and river. The Ethnographic Museum is also on the grounds of the kremlin.
reviewed
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E
Akvatoria
For all its obsession with fishing, Astrakhan is short on places cooking fresh fish from the Volga. This floating restaurant is a pleasant exception. Choose between local specialities, such as sazan,bershik,vobla, catfish or pike caviar, then admire the Volga sunset view.
reviewed
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Fish Market
The lively fish market is worth a visit to pick up some snacks or to witness the vibrant trade in produce and fish. Try oblyoma, the local speciality, a salty fish complemented by beer (or vice versa). Head north of Kommunisticheskaya ul until it becomes Pokrovskaya pl.
reviewed
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F
La Vanile
Flower pots abound, water streams down a glass wall and a canary sings favourite French pop tunes. We tried salmon salad with quail eggs, mushroom profiteroles, and the psychedelic-coloured cherry and almond dessert. Chef Patrice Talbotte instantly became our hero of the day.
reviewed
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Assumption Cathedral
Inside the large 16th-century fortress on top of Zayachy Hill, the main churches are the magnificent Assumption Cathedral (1698-1710) and the lovely but fading 18th-century Trinity Cathedral. At the time of research, only Kirillov Chapel (Kremlin) was open for visitors.
reviewed
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H
Kirillov Chapel
Inside the large 16th-century fortress on top of Zayachy Hill, the main churches are the magnificent Assumption Cathedral (1698-1710) and the lovely but fading 18th-century Trinity Cathedral. At the time of research, only Kirillov Chapel was open for visitors.
reviewed
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I
Trinity Cathedral
Inside the large 16th-century fortress on top of Zayachy Hill, the main churches are the magnificent Assumption Cathedral (1698-1710) and the lovely but fading 18th-century Trinity Cathedral. At the time of research, only Kirillov Chapel was open for visitors.
reviewed
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Dogadin Art Gallery
The Dogadin Art Gallery has one of the best art collections outside Russia’s capital cities. Check out the works of Astrakhan-born Boris Kustodiev, who painted lushly coloured semi-folkloric scenes of merchants’ life.
reviewed
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Red Mosque
This area of former Tatar and Persian sloboda south of the May 1st Canal is still predominantly Muslim, which is reflected in the proliferation of mosques, such as the city’s oldest Red Mosque.
reviewed
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L
Sharlow Coffee House
A popular spot for those seeking a caffeine fix. The colourful ceiling and gigantic coffee-themed murals lend an artsy atmosphere to this cheery place. A few soups and sandwiches are available, in addition to the sweet stuff.
reviewed
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M
Prechistenskie Belfry Gate
The large 16th-century fortress on top of Zayachy Hill is a peaceful green haven in what can be a hot, dusty city. Enter through the main, eastern Prechistenskie Belfry Gate (1908-12), with its impressive bell tower.
reviewed
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Horseshoe Grill
If the weather drives you inside, try this place, which is along the naberezhnaya. The atmosphere is pleasant (although a bit dark in summer) and the menu is more varied than its outdoor counterparts.
reviewed
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O
Black Mosque
The Black Mosque was erected by Bukhara merchants in 1816 and destroyed by the Bolsheviks in 1939; it is currently being rebuilt from the remaining ruins.
reviewed
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P
Shatrovaya Tower
Near the History and Architecture Museum, Shatrovaya Tower is all that remains of the 16th-century Saviour-Transfiguration Monastery (Spaso-preobrazhensky monastyr).
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Scharlau Coffee House
This friendly and competent café-cum-canteen is located inside a former chocolate factory built in the 19th century by a German whose name it proudly bears.
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Q
History and Architecture Museum
The History and Architecture Museum holds special exhibitions on local palaeontology and archaeology, featuring treasures excavated from around the region.
reviewed
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Selenskiye Isady Fish Market
The lively Selenskiye Isady fish market is worth a visit to pick up some snacks or to witness the vibrant trade in produce and fish.
reviewed
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R
Cezar
Apart from organising lodge stays in the delta, this company also does trips to the Baskunchak salt lake and Bogdo mountain, sacred to Buddhists.
reviewed
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Crem Café
An expensive riverside bar– restaurant with discrete service where dressed-up people come to watch Volga sunsets.
reviewed
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T
Beer Academy
A convivial place next to Scharlau with a great selection of draught beers and an extensive food menu (mains R300).
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Ioann Zlatoust Church
Kriushi is also the location of the beautifully restored Ioann Zlatoust church, dating from 1763.
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Tatar-Bazar
For the famous Astrakhan watermelons and other fruit, check out Tatar-Bazar
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