Lublin’s centre has emerged into the new century with revived confidence, and the locals are out in droves to enjoy it. The Rynek is ringed with bars, cafés and restaurants, which have new-world attitude while still respecting their old-world location. Step through Krakowska Gate to pick up the pace on ul Krakowskie Przedmieście, with its parade of pepped-up Poles and perky holidaymakers.
After many years spent lagging behind other towns of equivalent size, Lublin has relaunched itself as the bustling leader of its region. After its painful history, Lublin’s ability to laugh again is a testament to its character as a true survivor.