Nearly 2km southeast of the mausoleum, Moulay Ismail’s immense granaries and stables, Heri es-Souani, were ingeniously designed. Tiny windows, massive walls and a system of underfloor water channels kept the temperatures cool and air circulating. The building provided stabling and food for an incredible 12,000 horses, and Moulay Ismail regarded it as one of his finest architectural projects.
The roof fell in long ago, but the first few vaults have been restored. They’re impressive, but overly lit which robs them of much of their ambience – seek out the darker, more atmospheric corners. Those beyond stand in partial ruin, row upon row across a huge area.
In summer it’s a long hot walk here from Moulay Ismail’s mausoleum, so you might want to catch a taxi or calèche (horse-drawn carriage). If you do decide to walk, follow the road from the mausoleum south between the high walls, past the main entrance of the Royal Palace (no visitors) and a campsite, to find the entrance straight ahead.