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Mauritania

Things to do in Mauritania

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  1. Ouadâne

    The first glimpse of Ouadâne, a Unesco World Heritage site is arresting. The old quarter that stretches atop the hill is one of the most enchanting semi-ghost towns of the Sahara. As you arrive across the sands or plateau from Atâr or Chinguetti, the stone houses of Le Ksar al Kiali (old quarter) seem to tumble down the cliff like an apparition.

    From the base of the town, the lush gardens of the oasis stretch out before the desert again takes hold. The top of the hill is dominated by the minaret of the new mosque, a mere 200 years old. At the western end, at the base of the town, is the 14th-century old mosque.

    Ouadâne was founded in 1147 by Berbers, and sits on the…

    reviewed

  2. Parc National du Banc d'Arguin

    The Parc National du Banc D'Arguin is a must-see for any bird watcher. It is an important stopover and breeding ground for multitudes of birds migrating between Europe and Southern Africa. The park extends 200km (124mi) north from Cape Timiris. Most birds are found on sand islands in the shallow ocean.

    The feathered residents include broad-billed sandpipers, over two million of which have been recorded here in the winter. Other species include pink flamingos, white pelicans, grey pelicans, royal terns, gull-billed terns, black terns, white-breasted cormorants, spoonbills and several species of herons, egrets and waders.

    The best viewing time is December and January, which…

    reviewed

  3. Chinguetti

    This sleepy date-palm oasis, once a splendid Saharan trading city, is the seventh holiest city of Islam and is situated at the edge of fat, rolling dunes that fill the horizon. It's Mauritania's biggest tourist destination, mainly because it's the most accessible of the desert towns, with the most to see, and a popular starting point for desert treks.

    The highlight of any visit is a wander through the labyrinthine lanes of Le Ksar (the old town). The modern town, which has a delightful market (remarkable for how little produce is available), is separated from the old town by a broad, flat wadi where palm trees grow. Other curios include tiny libraries housing ancient,…

    reviewed

  4. Port de Pêche

    The Port de Pêche is an absolute must-see, and is by far Nouakchott's star attraction. It's incredibly lively and extremely colourful. You'll see hundreds of teams of men, mostly Wolof and Fula, dragging in heavy hand-knotted fishing nets. Small boys hurry back and forth with trays of fish, which they sort, gut, fillet and lay out on large trestles to dry. The best time is in the late afternoon, when the fishing boats return. It's a fantastic experience and not to be missed.

    It's pretty safe as long as you're vigilant and sensible (wear a money belt). Take a taxi to get there from the centre.

    reviewed

  5. Café-Restau Bruxelles

    A laid-back little restaurant with outdoor seating and a neat interior, this is a lovely place to eat. It's run by amiable Alex, a Belgian citizen, and his Mauritanian wife. Expect savoury dishes that are well presented, including brochettes de poisson (fish kebabs), rump steak, a good range of crunchy salads and hearty omelettes. Make sure to leave room for the tasty pancakes. It's a bit far from the centre, on the road to Nouâdhibou, but it's well worth the taxi ride.

    reviewed

  6. A

    Marché Capitale

    Marché Capitale offers a bit of everything. Potential souvenirs include brass teapots, silver jewellery, traditional wooden boxes with silver inlay, pipes, leather bags, sandals, cushions, beads and grigri. You'll find dress material, colourful Soninké tie-dyed material, Senegalese batiks and the inexpensive, crinkly malafa (fabric) that Moor women use as veils.

    reviewed

  7. B

    La Salamandre

    Just off Route des Ambassades, La Salamandre enjoys a deserved reputation for lip-smacking French cooking. Here you can warm yourself with salade périgourdine (salad), shrimps, beef dishes and côte d'agneau grillée (grilled lamb). The sleek setting, with lashings of bright colours splashed all over the walls, is another draw.

    reviewed

  8. C

    La Palmeraie Pâtisserie Restaurant

    This snazzy-but-not-sooty venue is a contender for the title of best restaurant in Nouakchott. Whatever your own verdict, you'll eat in genteel surroundings. The outdoor seating is particularly inviting. Signature dishes include filet de dorade (sea bream fillet) or lotte grillée (grilled monkfish). It's also recommended for breakfast.

    reviewed

  9. D

    Restaurant El-Bahdja

    One of Nouakchott's best choices, this cosy eatery continues to win plaudits for its excellent Moroccan-inspired menu at very reasonable prices. You can't really go wrong - everything's pretty good - but if you want a recommendation, go for a tajine (Moroccan stew featuring meat or poultry simmered with vegetables and olives).

    reviewed

  10. E

    Le Jardin

    It's the setting that's the pull here, with a mellow open-air terrace and a couple of elegant dining rooms. This upscale outlet is patronised by expats and the local glitterati who want to dine in style. The menu features meat and fish dishes, including beef Orloff, lamb skewers and African threadfin with coconut sauce.

    reviewed

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  12. F

    Musée National

    Anyone with an interest in Moorish culture shouldn't leave Nouakchott without a visit here. On the first level is a prehistoric gallery with archaeological exhibits while the second level is taken up with more recent ethnographic displays from Moorish society. The building is labelled as the Ministry of Culture.

    reviewed

  13. G

    Rimal

    It's not expensive, it's utterly without frills and the food is never going to win any Michelin awards, but we found the rustic look - bare tables, plastic tablecloths, peeling walls - suggestive and the time-warped ambience strangely seductive. Stick to the classics such as omelettes or fried fish.

    reviewed

  14. H

    Pizza Lina

    Pizza Lina has been flying the flag for tasty pizzas served bubbling hot from the oven for some years. The meat and fish dishes are also excellent, or you could order a scrummy plate of pasta. There's a pleasant modern dining room but the terrace is also agreeable. Not far from the stadium.

    reviewed

  15. I

    Le Bambou

    If you fancy a change from European or African food, head to this humble Asian restaurant. The setting is positively old-fashioned and the dining quarters couldn't be more cramped, but there's a pleasant garden. Dig into staples such as Chinese soups, meat or fish dishes at puny prices.

    reviewed

  16. J

    Grande Mosquée

    Dominating the city's skyline, the Grande Mosquée, better known as the Mosquée Saudique, is right in the centre. It's not exactly a model of architectural magnificence but it's worth a couple of pictures for its slender minarets.

    reviewed

  17. K

    Le Prince

    Le Prince is one of the many fast-food establishments on Rue Alioune between Ave Kennedy and Ave du Général de Gaulle. Plonk yourself on a wobbly chair in the room at the back and tuck into a plate of well-prepared shwarma.

    reviewed

  18. L

    Phenicia

    You'll find no cheaper place for a sit-down meal in the centre. The setting is wonderfully modest with old paintings hanging on peeling walls. It's certainly not gourmet food but it's filling, with omelettes, steaks and sandwiches.

    reviewed

  19. Nouakchott's beach

    Fancy a dip? The nearest beach to Nouakchott is 5km west of the centre. OK, it ain't the Bahamas, but it can be fun for a couple of hours. There's no shade, so bring sunscreen. Beware of undertows.

    reviewed

  20. M

    Club B

    A place well worth bookmarking if you want to dine in style. It's housed in a posh building off the main drag, a stone's throw from the Senegalese embassy - you can't miss the orange façade.

    reviewed

  21. N

    Centre Artisanal

    Check this place out for silver trinkets and jewellery. Located on the highway to Rosso - it's beyond the roundabout intersection for Boutilimit and on your right.

    reviewed

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  23. O

    Friday Mosque

    The Friday Mosque is notable for its blindingly white façade. Visitors aren't allowed inside during prayer times. Located on the road to the airport.

    reviewed

  24. P

    Mosquée Marocaine

    The large Mosquée Marocaine is a precious landmark in this bustling area. Located south of Ave Abdel Nasser, towards the Cinquième Quartier.

    reviewed

  25. Q

    Le Méditerranéen

    A reputable French (Corsican, to be accurate) restaurant, housed in a stylish villa. The camel kebab was average - fish dishes are reportedly better.

    reviewed

  26. R

    Le Petit Café

    Le Petit Café is a smart fast-food joint with good snacks at moderate prices. Located near the French embassy.

    reviewed

  27. S

    Modern KTV

    Modern KTV has regular live musicians and Senegalese DJs. Thursday, Friday and Saturday are the liveliest nights.

    reviewed