Introducing Ocho Rios

Wrapped around a small bay with postcard-worthy snugness, Ocho Rios is a former fishing village that the Jamaica Tourist Board earmarked for tourism in the mid-1980s. Whatever character Ocho Rios lost when the local nets were redirected from fish to the tourist dollar, its streets today are lined with interchangeable duty-free shopping plazas and fast-food emporia, persistent higglers (street vendors) and would-be tour guides, and a palpable air of waiting for something.

That something is cruise ships – after Montego Bay, this is the island’s premier port of packaged call. Yet ‘Ochi’s’ beaches lack the splendor of MoBay’s, it has nothing approaching the latter’s downtown historic center, and the disembarkation dock here is so centrally located as to command the town’s focus. When the floating resorts pull in, their human cargo streams into town to meet the local traffic in souvenirs untainted by memories; the full frontal hustle is on.

Note, however, that the cruise ships are generally gone by nightfall and seldom dock on weekends. The hordes can be avoided with a little planning, and if you’re looking for a good base for exploring the north coast and the scenic interior of St Ann’s Parrish, this is it. A terrific reggae museum, a lively nightlife scene, a trio of serene hillside gardens and an abundance of fine hotels and guesthouses make Ochi a good place to pause.