Getting there & away
Several towns in Umbria have no train station, but several buses pick up the slack, except on Sundays, when it’s impossible to get just about anywhere by bus. APM Perugia has recently upgraded its fleet with two dozen ecologically friendly buses.
Intercity buses leave from Piazza Partigiani (take the scale mobili from Piazza Italia). Sulga also offers a Perugia–Florence service (€10.50, 2½ hours) that runs once daily, except Sunday, leaving Perugia at 7.30am and Florence at 6pm (from Piazza Adua at Santa Maria Novella). Most routes within Umbria are operated by APM (800 51 21 41, 075 573 17 07 from mobile; www.apmperugia.com) in the north and SSIT (074 267 07 46; www.spoletina.com) or ATC Terni (0744 40 94 57; www.atcterni.it) in the south.
Buses head to Deruta (€2.60, 25 minutes, 13 daily), Torgiano (€1.60, 25 minutes, nine daily) by extraurbano or by city bus 5A, Assisi (€3, 50 minutes, nine daily), Todi (€4.30, one hour and 10 minutes, seven daily), Gubbio (€4.30, one hour and 10 minutes, 10 daily), Gualdo Tadino (€5.20, one hour and 20 minutes, five daily) and Lago Trasimeno towns (€3 to €4.70, 50 minutes to one hour and 10 minutes, six to 10 daily). To get to Narni or Amelia, take an ATC Terni bus from Piazza Partigiani or preferably the FCU train to Terni and switch there. Check the TV monitors above the terminals. It’s best to take the train to Spello, Foligno, Spoleto or Orvieto.
Current train and bus routes, company details and timetables are listed in the monthly booklet Viva Perugia (€1), available at the tourist office, hotels and some newsstands.
From Rome, leave the A1 at the Orte exit and follow the signs for Terni. Once there, take the SS3bis/E45 for Perugia. From the north, exit the A1 at Valdichiana and take dual carriageway SS75 for Perugia. The SS75 to the east connects the city with Assisi.
You’ll find three car-rental companies at the main train station. All are open from 8.30am to 1pm and 3.30pm to 7pm Monday to Friday, and from 8.30am to 1pm Saturday.
Avis (/fax 075 500 03 95; email@example.com)
Hertz (075 500 24 39; firstname.lastname@example.org)
Maggiore (075 500 74 99; www.maggiore.it in Italian)
Airport Sant’Egidio agencies also include:
Europcar (075 692 06 15; www.europcar ; 8.30am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-12.30pm Sat, by request Sun)
Although Perugia’s main train station is named ‘Stazione Fontivegge’, the sign at the station simply reads ‘Perugia’. It is on Piazza Vittorio Veneto, a few kilometres west of the city centre and easily accessible by frequent buses from Piazza Italia. The ticket office is open from 6.30am to 8.10pm (closed for lunch 12.50pm to 1.20pm), but you can buy tickets at the automated machines at any time of day with a credit card or cash. For train information, call Tren Italia (89 20 21).
Perugia is on a spur line, so there’s almost always a change in Foligno to the southeast or Terontola to the northwest. Regular trains run to Rome €10.12 to €18.45, 2¼ to three hours, Florence (€7.90 to €12.50, two hours) and Arezzo (€4.50, one hour and 10 minutes, every two hours). Within Umbria, it’s easy to reach Assisi (€1.65, 25 minutes, hourly), Gubbio (€4.30, 1½ hours, seven daily, change in Foligno), Spello (€2.05, 30 minutes, hourly) and Orvieto (€6.10 to €6.80, 1¼ hours, at least every other hour).
About half of the tourist destinations in Umbria require a ride on the Ferrovia Central Umbra (FCU; 075 57 54 01; www.fcu.it in Italian; Stazione Sant’Anna, Piazzale Bellucci). These adorable graffiti’d ‘Thomas the Tank Engine’ trains also head to Rome (switch in Terni). You must validate your ticket on board, not before boarding as with all other Italian trains.
Take the FCU south to Fratta Todina for Monte Castello di Vibio (€2.05, 40 minutes, 18 daily), Todi (€2.55, 50 minutes, 18 daily) or Terni (€4.40, 1½ hours, 17 daily). The Sansepolcro line heads north to Umbertide (€2.05, 45 minutes, 19 daily) and Città di Castello (€3.05, one hour and 10 minutes, 16 daily).
Aeroporto Sant’Egidio (PEG; 075 59 21 41; www.airport.umbria.it), 13km east of the city, offers at least three daily Alitalia flights to Milan, plus a new Ryanair service to London Stansted thrice weekly. A one-way or round-trip taxi to Sant’Egidio costs €25 from the city centre, or there’s an extremely convenient bus line, Sulga (800 09 96 61; www.sulga.it ; €3.50), which coincides with all arrivals and departures. The white shuttle-buses leave from Piazza Italia about an hour and 10 minutes before a scheduled departure, stopping at the train station 15 minutes into the journey. From the airport, buses leave once everyone is off the planes with their luggage.