Its heyday is recalled at the fabulous estate Il Vittoriale degli Italiani. Italy’s controversial poet and ultranationalist, Gabriele d’Annunzio (1863–1938) retreated here in 1922 because, he claimed, he wanted to escape the world that made him ill. Visits to d’Annunzio’s house are by guided 25-minute tour only (in Italian, every 10 minutes). The Museo della Guerra (War Museum) records d’Annunzio’s WWI antics – one of his most triumphant and more bizarre feats was to capture a battleship from the fledgling Yugoslavia shortly after WWI, when Italy’s territorial claims had been partly frustrated in postwar peace talks. In July and August, classical concerts, ballets, plays and operas are staged in the open-air theatre in the villa’s lush grounds.