Kilkenny Castle

Rising above the Nore, Kilkenny Castle is one of Ireland's most visited heritage sites. The first structure on this strategic site was a wooden tower built in 1172 by Richard de Clare, the Anglo-Norman conqueror of Ireland better known as Strongbow. In 1192, Strongbow's son-in-law, William Marshall, erected a stone castle with four towers, three of which survive. The castle was bought by the powerful Butler family in 1391, and their descendants continued to live there until 1935. Maintaining such a structure became a big financial strain and most of the furnishings were sold at auction. The castle was handed over to the city in 1967 for the princely sum of £50.

One glance tells you that the castle has been modified through the centuries. First of all it's missing a wall – a key defensive deficiency. Second, there are all those windows – perfect targets, say, for a catapult. Most of the changes visible today date from the 19th century when efforts were made to banish the gloom and bring in the cheer. By then the only real defensive worry was a peasant flinging a rotten potato.

Regular 40-minute guided tours focus on the Long Gallery, in the wing of the castle nearest the river. The gallery, which showcases stuffy portraits of the Butler family members over the centuries, is an impressive hall with high ceilings vividly painted with Celtic and Pre-Raphaelite motifs.

The castle basement is also home to the Butler Gallery, one of the country's most important art galleries outside Dublin. Small exhibitions featuring the work of contemporary artists are held throughout the year. Also in the basement, the castle kitchen houses a popular summertime cafe. You can access the Butler Gallery and the cafe without paying admission.

About 20 hectares of parkland are a refuge from city nuttiness. The grounds echo with chirping birds and extend to the southeast, with a Celtic cross-shaped rose garden, a fountain to the northern end and a children's playground to the south. There are many good views of the river. The castle's former stables are now home to the Kilkenny Design Centre.