Southeastern Iran

Introducing Southeastern Iran

This is frontier territory. And like the best frontiers it combines harsh landscapes, periodic banditry and warm welcomes to form a unique and exotic travelling experience. There are real dangers, so it’s important to read the boxed text before heading this way. The region stretches east across ancient Kerman province, through high deserts scarred by brown snowcapped mountain ranges and coloured by occasional oasis towns and seasonal lakes. Kerman is the main city and is, in effect, the cultural border separating the Persians of the central plateau and the more eastern-oriented Baluchis, whose dress and customs feel more Pakistani than Iranian. Following ancient caravan routes southeast across the edge of the forbidding Dasht-e Lut, most travellers will stop in historic Bam and then Zahedan, the capital of Sistan va Baluchestan province (where smugglers criss-cross the deserts and the rule of law is tenuous).

For travellers, the region hasn’t been quite so attractive since the Bam earthquake in 2003 flattened the city and wrought havoc upon the monumental adobe Arg-e Bam. Rebuilding work on the Arg is ongoing, and Bam’s soothing date groves and strong tradition of hospitality still reward a visit. But taking in a few other places will round out your trip. Sleeping in the cave hotel in Meymand is a fun way to start, and Kerman itself is interesting, and an ideal base for day- and overnight-trips to the small but historic towns of Rayen and Mahan, excursions to nomad communities and camel-trekking trips. But the highlight is surely the journey to Shahdad and the Kaluts, where enormous ‘sand castles’ stand like broken teeth punctuating the earth for as far as the eye can see and you can sleep in a ‘million star hotel’.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009