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Getting there & around

Indian Airlines (2325470; VIP Rd; 9am-1pm & 2-4pm),Air Deccan (www.airdeccan.com), Jet Airways (2341400) and Kingfisher (www.flykingfisher.com) all fly to Kolkata and Guwahati. Indian also flies thrice weekly to Silchar (US$91). Agartala’s airport is 12km north, Rs 90 by autorickshaw. Arrive early: before reaching the check-in area you must get tickets endorsed at airline counters outside the terminal then visit the immigration desk across the arrivals hall (yes, for domestic departures).

Private bus offices clustered on Durga Bari Rd include Sagar Travels/Network Travels (2222013) and Sherowali Travels (2310398). However, most leave from the main TRTC bus station (2325685; Thakur Palli Rd). Tickets are sold at Counter 1 for 6am and noon buses to Guwahati (around 25 hours, Rs 355 to 500) via Shillong (21 hours) and 6am buses to Silchar (Rs 190 to 220, 14 hours). TRTC state-run buses (Counter 4) are somewhat cheaper and also serve Kailasahar (Rs 68, seven hours). BRTC’s daily bus to Dhaka (Rs 232, 1pm) will use the gleaming newInternational Bus Terminal once that opens.

Northbound sumos use the busy Motor Stand (Motor Stand Rd).

For Udaipur (Rs 20, 1¾ hours) and Melagarh (for Neermahal; Rs 20, 1½ hours) use the south bus station.

The planned new Assam–Agartala railway has yet to progress beyond Manu. Construction continues, plagued by extortion and attacks from insurgent groups. There’s a computerised train-booking office (8am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-11.30am Sun) at Agartala’s main bus station.