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Getting Around


Human-powered ‘tana rickshaws’ work within limited areas, notably around New Market. Although rickshaw pullers sometimes charge foreigners disproportionate fares, many are virtually destitute, sleeping on the pavements beneath their rented chariots at night, so tips are heartily appreciated.

Bus & Tram

Buses and minibuses are more frequent but photogenic battered old trams follow somewhat more predictable routes and are immune to one-way traffic.

Suburban Trains

Sealdah–Dum Dum–Dakshineswar trains run roughly hourly. The Kidderpore–BBD Bagh–Bagbazar–Chitpore–Dum Dum route is rush hour only. Biman Bandar is the airport station but only a couple of daily services stop there.


Crossing the Hoogly is generally faster and more agreeable by boat than by using the clogged road bridges. Ferries depart every 15 to 20 minutes from Howrah to jetties in central Kolkata; other useful routes are Howrah–Ahritola–Sovabazar–Bagbazar (for Kumartuli), Ahritola–Bandaghat and Belur–Dakshineswar.


Tuk-tuk-style autorickshaws ('autos') operate as fixed-route hop-on share-taxis with three passengers in the back and one beside the driver. Fares are typically ₹6 to ₹10, depending on distance.

Key routes:

  • Dharamtala–Loha Pool Starts from Park Circus using Park St (or after 1pm looping via Nasreddin and Karaya roads), goes up AJC Bose Rd, (near Mother Teresa's Motherhouse), along Elliot/Royd then up Mirza Ghalib/RAK Rd (mornings/afternoons) near Sudder St. Loops reverse after 1pm.

  • Hazra–Bondel Along Hazra Rd, starting a block east of Jatin Das Park Metro.

  • Hazra–Khiddapur West from Jatin Das Park Metro, past the Kalighat idolmakers and on through Alipore.