Greenland

Getting around

Many tourists mistakenly believe that travelling in Greenland is only possible on a tour. In fact, public helicopters and coastal ferries offer truly splendid ways to see much of the country's great scenery. However, be flexible. Weather conditions mean you simply can't assume that a service will leave on time (or even on the scheduled day). The great Greenlandic word immaqa (maybe) is a necessary caveat. Greenland's national airline is commonly nicknamed Immaqa Air.

Boat

Cruises

Several companies, including Scantours (www.scantours.com) and Profil Rejser (www.profil-rejser.dk, in Danish), offer watergoing tours billed as 'cruises', 'coastal steamer rides' or other such romantic names. In fact this usually means that they will simply book you a berth on the regular AUL ferry and add air tickets, a couple of hotels and the odd excursion during longer stops. The budget conscious would be well advised to compare the prices of putting together the same individual elements for themselves.

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Car & motorcycle

Most of Greenland's 2520 cars and 72 buses are in Nuuk. Nonetheless, even in smaller towns that could be crossed on foot in five minutes, many people seem to jump in a car whenever they set foot outside. By European standards petrol is remarkably cheap (prices are similar to those in the USA), so drivers seem unconcerned at leaving engines running while they shop. Nobody's likely to steal a car, as you simply can't drive far from any town. Indeed, thanks to glaciers and impossibly rugged terrain, there are virtually no roads at all beyond city limits. Very minor exceptions include a few tractor tracks around Narsaq and Qassiarsuk, the 5km gravel road from Grønnedal to Ivittuut, and a 70km network of rough roads around Kangerlussuaq. None warrants renting a car, though there are a surprising number of taxis even in the small towns. There are only 10 motorcycles registered in the whole country, outnumbered nine to one by fire engines.

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Travel documents

Tickets

Note that fares rise around 35% between mid-June and late August. There are discounts for seniors (25% in summer, 50% in the off season), children under 12 (50%), and infants under two (90%).

Where there are no AUL offices, tickets are usually available at the village post office nearest to the port. For a Dkr50 surcharge you can pay once aboard the ferry. However, this depends on space availability. Ship-capacity regulations are strictly adhered to, and it's not uncommon for boats to be fully booked in advance, especially in midsummer. There is a waiting list for places on fully booked boats, so there's still a chance of getting aboard even the fullest ferry if somebody fails to show up. But if you are not flexible with your schedule (ie if waiting an extra week or two would be a problem) it's worth booking tickets as far ahead as is humanly possible.

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Water

Ferry

Arctic Umiaq Line (AUL; 349 900; www.aul.gl) ferries offer an ideal way to meet Greenlanders while you weave between icebergs, sail past majestic soaring peaks and pass through magnificent icescapes. Ice conditions allowing, summer services link west-coast villages from Aappilattoq, near Cape Farewell, to Uummannaq in the north. Note that no single ship does the whole route and that there are no ferries on the east coast. In winter ferries go no further north than Ilulissat. See the map on p000.

The ferries are safe and reasonably comfortable, but they're not always on time. Major delays are announced on Greenland's KNR-TV Teletext page 550, but boats can also arrive (and depart) early, especially at small ports. Always be at the dock at least 45 minutes ahead. Timetables are specific to periods of a few weeks or months, so check carefully that the one you're using is for the exact dates you need. Especially in summer it's worth booking as far ahead as possible, as passenger limits are strictly enforced.

Regular AUL passenger routes are divided into four regional groupings: west coast, south coast, Middle Greenland and Disko Bay.

Main west-coast routes

The long-distance west-coast routes are handled by two large ferries, both on weekly loops. The Sarfaq Ittuk shuttles between Qaqortoq and Nuuk via Paamiut, extending south to Narsarsuaq and north to Ilulissat in summer. In winter the Sarpik Ittuk follows a similar route, but from mid-June to mid-November - when the northern sea ice melts - it runs from Nuuk to Uummannaq via Disko Bay, and even ventures as far as Upernavik till mid-August.

There are various classes. By paying some 50% more you'll get a bed in six- or four-bed kupe cabin. Plusher three- and two-person cabins cost 70% to 80% more than couchettes, while a single cabin costs almost three times the basic fare and has a private toilet. There are on-board showers and a decent cafeteria . The aft-lounge has nice viewing windows, though a noisy TV makes it less than tranquil. A separate video room screens free movies, and the purser's office has a radio telephone (per minute Dkr10).

South-coast routes

Of boats working the south-coast routes, the most useful is the Najaaraq Ittuk, which sails between Qaqortoq and Nanortalik three times a week, with varying intermediate stops. May to November it also links Qaqortoq to Narsarsuaq, Narsaq and Itilleq (for Igaliku). December to April the tiny Aleqa Ittuk runs fairly sporadically between Qaqortoq and either Igaliku or Nanortalik. Weekly from Nanortalik when ice and sea conditions allow, the 12-seater Ketil makes a superbly scenic one-day run through the south's most splendid fjords to reach Aappilattoq.

Middle Greenland routes

The most useful of the limited middle Greenland routes is the weekly run between Sisimiut and Itilleq on the Mima.

Disko bay routes

There are three boats, of which the most useful to tourists is usually the Aviaq Ittuk. It hops between Aasiaat, Ilulissat and Qasigiannguit several times a week, stopping at least once weekly in Kitsissuarsuit, Ikkamiut, Ilimanaq, Oqaatsut, Qeqertaq and Saqqaq. The Nukaraaq Ittuk makes short trips from Aasiaat to Kangaatsiaq, Niaqornaarsuk and Attu. The Inuuteq shuttles between Ilulissat and Qasigiannguit on Wednesdays and Fridays in midsummer.

Booking from abroad

Although the www.aul.gl website has timetables for each month plus full tables of prices, it is not yet possible to buy tickets online. You can make a reservation by email, but you must pay in full at least two weeks before departure or the reservation will be removed from the system. If you're not likely to be in Greenland a fortnight before departure, the only way to pay is by bank transfer to Bank of Greenland (SWIFT: GRENGLGX, IBAN GL426471 00014 29 59-8). You'll also need to cover the hefty transfer fees. Hopefully, they'll come around to accepting credit-card bookings eventually.

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Air

Considering its climate, huge size and minuscule population, Greenland is remarkably well served by air links. The main network is operated by Air Greenland (343434; www.airgreenland.com). Air Alpha (www.airalpha.com/greenland.aspx) runs a few helicopter connections to the east coast and around Ilulissat, and the Kulusuk - Nerlerit Inaat (Constable Point) route is, curiously, offered by Air Iceland (www.airiceland.is).

Unless otherwise stated, fares and flight frequencies quoted in this book are for one-way summer travel. In winter, flights are less frequent, and immaqa really comes into its own.

Be aware that, technically, Air Greenland's 20kg baggage allowance includes your hand baggage. Although it's not always strictly enforced, some agents will hit you for even a single excess kilogram. Airport taxes are paid with your ticket purchase, along with an often hefty ticketing charge. Helicopter tickets and all purchases online through Air Greenland's website are presently exempt from this ticketing fee, though a charge is planned eventually. Note that web bookings are not e-tickets: you must pick up the paper tickets at the location you stated when booking online. Hopefully, this silly situation will change.

Helicopter flights in the south are bookable online, but regional village services in the north and east don't appear on general timetables. Village helicopter-shuttle services from Uummannaq, Upernavik and Qaanaaq cost the same flat fee regardless of actual distance flown.

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Bicycle

As long-distance transport a bike is useless. However, some consider it worth hiring one of the somewhat ropy rental bikes available in Narsaq, Qassiarsuk, and particularly Kangerlussuaq, from which a rideable track goes all the way to the inland ice. In Nuuk there's enough asphalt to keep you pedalling for half a day, and there are some harsh off-road tracks in the surrounding region.

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