Ghana's beating heart probably won't inspire love letters, but you might just grow to like it. The capital's hot, sticky streets are perfumed with sweat, fumes and yesterday's cooking oil. Like balloons waiting to be burst, clouds of dirty humidity linger above stalls selling mangoes, banku (fermented maize meal) and rice. The city's tendrils reach out towards the beach, the centre and the west, each one a different Ghanaian experience.
The city doesn't have any heavy-hitting sights like Cape Coast or Elmina but it does have good shopping, excellent nightlife and definitely the best selection of eating options in Ghana.
Best places to stay in Accra
West Africa travel guide
West Africa has cachet and soul. Home to African landscapes of our imaginations and inhabited by an astonishing diversity of traditional peoples, this is Africa as it once was.
Charles Sablah loves his neighbourhood. He also loves meeting new people, so he started welcoming couch-surfers in his home a few years ago. He showed them around Nima and what started as a standard friendly welcome has become a regular tour. Charles has done a lot of research to learn the history of the area and his enthusiasm and smile are infectious.
West Africa - Ghana (Chapter)
Hailed as West Africa's golden child, Ghana deserves its place in the sun. With its welcoming beaches, gorgeous hinterland, rich culture, vibrant cities, diverse wildlife, easy transport and affable inhabitants, it's no wonder Ghana is...
Top things to do in Ghana
Best places to stay in Ghana
Africa travel guide
Something special about Africa touches the soul; it is a continent of 54 immensely diverse countries that is both deeply troubled and profoundly uplifting.
Independence Square is a vast, empty expanse of concrete overlooked by spectator stands of Stalinesque grace. The square is dominated by an enormous McDonald's-like arch, beneath which the Eternal Flame of African Liberation, lit by Kwame Nkrumah, still flickers. It stands empty for most of the year, except for special commemorations.
Accra to Freetown
Encounter mountains, beaches and mud roads on this epic West African adventure. Explore Ghana's buzzing capital Accra, walk among tree canopies in Kakum National Park and travel along the stunning Altantic coast to the beaches of Elmina.
West Africa Cruise - Cape Town to Marrakech
People have been exchanging customs and ideas in Western Africa as long as there have been people. Now, it’s your turn. From the MS Expedition, you’ll get the chance to explore one of Africa’s most vibrant (and curiously underexplored) regions from a hotel that goes wherever you do.
This shop, which stocks pretty dresses, hats, tops, accessories (including lush scented shea butter), and kids clothes in colourful fabrics, is part of a bigger Fair Trade enterprise that is promoting sustainable income-generating activities for women.
Tucked behind a petrol station (Engen), this outdoor Indian restaurant is a gem – cheap, delicious and with long opening hours. One of the house specialities are the dosas (savory parcels made of rice flour normally eaten for breakfast). Sunday is thali (set meals) day.
Dig into mouth-watering Ghanaian, Nigerian, Togolese and Senegalese specials at hip Buka. The stylish 2nd floor open-air dining room seals the deal. Come early for fufu (cooked and mashed cassava, plantain or yam).
This 'Jazz Bar & Grill', as the strapline goes, is one of the best live music venues in Accra. Bands come from all over the continent and there is a great atmosphere.