Things to do in Paris
-
A
Église St Étienne du Mont
The Church of Mount St Stephen, built between 1492 and 1655, contains Paris’ only surviving rood screen (1535), separating the chancel from the nave; the others were removed during the late Renaissance because they prevented the faithful in the nave from seeing the priest celebrate Mass. In the nave’s southeastern corner, the tomb of Ste Geneviève lies in a chapel.
Ste Geneviève, patroness of Paris, was born at Nanterre in AD 422 and turned away Attila the Hun from Paris in AD 451. A highly decorated reliquary near her tomb contains all that is left of her earthly remains – a finger bone.
reviewed
-
B
Waly Fay
This easygoing ‘loungin’ restaurant’ attracts a rather hip crowd for African food with a West Indian twist. Dishes to sample include Senegal’s national dish, tiéboudienne (rice, fish and vegetables), and the beef n’dole with wild greens; you might also consider the copious mafé (beef simmered in peanut sauce) served with rice and aloko (fried plantain bananas). The ginger ice cream goes down a treat.
reviewed
-
C
Graindorge
The name of this stylish restaurant, with its soft lighting, burgundy chairs and banquettes and Art Deco touches, means ‘barleycorn’ – it alludes to the great breweries of Flanders (check out the list of beers on offer). The signature dish is potjevleesch (€12), four kinds of meat cooked slowly together and served in aspic, though you’ll find plenty of other dishes that hint at the Low Countries, including waterzooi de homard (lobster poached with shredded vegetables and served in a creamy broth) and bintje farcie de morue en brandade (potatoes stuffed with cod purée).
reviewed
-
D
Au Village
Newcomers to African cuisine can choose from a range of classic Senegalese dishes such as aloko (fried plantain bananas with red sauce; €5.50), followed by the delicious, lightly spiced fish or chicken yassa (€12) or the hearty beef mafé (€11). For dessert, check out the amazing thiakry (semolina and cream cheese salad; €5.50). The plat du jour is usually €13. The atmosphere is warm, friendly and a bit hip and the décor is delightful. You’ll think you’re in a Senegalese village, especially when the kora music starts.
reviewed
-
E
Musée d’Art et d’Histoire
To the southwest of the basilica is the Museum of Art & History, housed in a restored Carmelite convent founded in 1625 and later presided over by Louise de France, the youngest daughter of Louis XV. Displays include reconstructions of the Carmelites’ cells, an 18th-century apothecary and, in the archaeology section, items found during excavations around the St-Denis Basilica. There’s a section on modern art, with a collection of work by a local son, the surrealist artist Paul Éluard (1895–1952), as well as an important collection of politically charged posters, cartoons, lithographs and paintings from the 1871 Paris Commune.
reviewed
-
F
Promenade Plantée
The most innovative green space in the city, the elevated Promenade Plantée was built atop the old Vincennes Railway, in operation from 1859 to 1969. Three stories above ground level, it provides all the usual park amenities – benches, rose trellises, corridors of bamboo – but its real attraction is the unique aerial vantage point on city life and the surrounding architecture.
The viaduct drops back to street level at the Jardin de Reuilly (1.5km), but it’s possible to follow the line all the way to the Bois de Vincennes at the city’s edge. This latter section, known as the Coulée Verte (3km), can also be done on a bike or in-line skates. Access to the elevated…
reviewed
-
G
L’Atelier De Joël Robuchon
Celebrity chef Joël Robuchon takes diners on a mind-blowing culinary tour of the finer things in French gastronomy, lobster, sardines, foie gras and milk-fed lamb included. Dining is stool-style around a communal U-shaped black lacquer bar in a Japanese-accented dining room with bamboo in glass vases.
reviewed
-
H
Théâtre-Musée des Capucines
A separate wing of the Musée du Parfum is located a short distance south in the Théâtre-Musée des Capucines. The activity in this early 20th-century theatre concentrates largely on the bottling (for example, in crystal flasks from Bohemia) and packaging side of perfume making. There’s a decent short film here and, of course, a shop selling Fragonard scents.
reviewed
-
I
Café Oz
A militantly Aussie pub at the bottom of sleazy rue St-Denis, Oz tries to be authentic – from its green-and-ochre décor to its strong commitment to maximising your drink intake of Aussie and Kiwi beers. Convivial bordering on raucous, it’s popular with Anglos but the French love it too. The place is packed on Friday and Saturday nights, when it heats up with DJs and dancing. Happy hour is 5pm to 8pm. There are a couple more branches, including Pigalle’s Café Oz Blanche ([tel] 01 40 16 11 16; 1 rue de Bruxelles, 9e; [hrs] 5pm-2am Mon-Wed, 5pm-4am Thurs, 5pm-10am Fri, 2pm-10am Sat, 2pm-2am Sun; [metro] Blanche).
reviewed
-
J
Au Dauphin
The force behind this unassuming bistro facing place André Malraux and Palais Royal is two pedigreed chefs from Biarritz (on the southwest coast) who have brought the flavours of the Basque country and the coastal Landes region to Paris. There are two hard-to-choose routes through the menu – the first being jars of wonderful rustic starters such as lapereau à la grand-mère (young rabbit in mushroom cream sauce), rillettes (shredded potted meat) and foie gras, to be shared with excellent bread, while the other offers combinations of classic Spanish parrillada (mixed grill).
reviewed
Advertisement
-
French Wine Tasting in Paris
Varies (Departs Paris, France)
by Viator
Whether you are a wine novice or expert, you’ll love this exquisite wine-tasting session in an elegant wine bar in central Paris. During your session, sample…Not LP reviewed
from USD$40.22 -
Dinner Cruise with "La Marina de Paris" and Moulin Rouge Show
6 hours (Departs Paris, France)
by Viator
Start your night with dinner cruise aboard one of the boats from Marina de Paris. Enjoy a sumptuous meal prepared on board while you watch a display of the most…Not LP reviewed
from USD$307.04 -
Cité des Enfants
On the ground floor of the Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie is the brilliant Cité des Enfants, with imaginative, hands-on demonstrations of basic scientific principles in two sections: for 2- to 7-year-olds, and for 5- to 12-year-olds. In the first, kids can explore, among other things, the conduct of water (waterproof ponchos provided), a building site and a maze. The second lets children build toy houses with industrial robots and stage news broadcasts in a TV studio. Visits to both last 1½ hours and are scheduled five times a day (seven on weekends), beginning at 10am. Reserve several days in advance.
reviewed
-
Paris City Tour by Minivan, Louvre Museum and Seine River Lunch Cruise
8 hours (Departs Paris, France)
by Viator
Take a small group full-day tour of Paris by minivan for a personalized Paris experience. Your tour combines fast track entry and a guided visit to the Louvre,…Not LP reviewed
from USD$201.12 -
K
Musée Pasteur
Housed in the apartment where the famous chemist and bacteriologist spent the last seven years of his life (1888–95), a tour of this museum takes you through Pasteur’s private rooms, with odds and ends including gifts presented to him by heads of state and drawings he did as a young man.
After Pasteur’s death, the French government wanted to entomb his remains in the Panthéon, but his family, acting in accordance with his wishes, obtained permission to have him buried at his institute. The great savant lies in the basement crypt.
Tours lasting 45 minutes to one hour are in French; printed English guides are available. Note that you need to show a passport or ID…
reviewed
-
L
Le Puits de Légumes
Homemade tarts, quiches and rice dishes loaded with fresh seasonal vegetables are the draw of the ‘Vegetable Well’, a vegetarian (plus fish) student favourite. From the tiny kitchen out back a comforting waft of homemade cooking pervades the simple dining room, filled with a handful of condiment-laden tables. Specials are chalked on the board outside.
reviewed
-
M
Opéra Bastille
Despite some initial resistance to this 3400-seat venue, the main opera house in the capital, is now performing superbly. While less alluring than Palais Garnier, seats in the main hall have an unrestricted view of the stage. Ticket sales begin at a precise date prior to each performance, with different opening dates for bookings by telephone, online or from the box office. Note: On the first day they are released, box office tickets can be bought only from the opera house at which the performance is to be held. At Bastille, standing-only tickets for €5 are available 1½ hours before performances begin.
reviewed
-
Seine River Cruise and Paris Canals Tour
2 hours 30 minutes (Departs Paris, France)
by Viator
Cruise the waters of the River Seine before enjoying a unique view of old Paris from the canal Saint Martin. See many of the major attractions of Paris from the…Not LP reviewed
from USD$25.47 -
N
La Petite Robe Noire
Paris being Paris, there’s secondhand…and secondhand: in the rag trade since 1975, collector Didier Ludot not only sells the city’s finest couture creations of yesteryear in his exclusive twinset of boutiques Didier Ludot, he also hosts fashion exhibitions in the neighbouring galleries of the Palais Royal, and has published a book portraying the evolution of the little black dress, brilliantly brought to life in his boutique that sells just that, La Petite Robe Noire.
reviewed
-
O
Musée Cognacq-Jay
This museum in Hôtel de Donon brings together oil paintings, pastels, sculpture, objets d’art, jewellery, porcelain and furniture from the 18th century assembled by Ernest Cognacq (1839–1928), founder of La Samaritaine department store, and his wife Louise Jay.
Although Cognacq appreciated little of his collection, boasting to all who would listen that he had never visited the Louvre and was only acquiring collections for the status, the artwork and objets d’art give a pretty good idea of upper-class tastes during the Age of Enlightenment. Temporary exhibitions command admission fee.
reviewed
Advertisement
-
Dinner and Show at the Moulin Rouge with Hotel Pickup
5 hours (Departs Paris, France)
by Viator
Experience French cuisine and culture as you discover the home of the Cancan in Paris while enjoying the cabaret of the Moulin Rouge. You have a choice from…Not LP reviewed
from USD$307.04 -
P
Ste-Chapelle
Try to save Ste-Chapelle for a sunny day, when Paris’ oldest, finest stained glass is at its dazzling best. Enshrined within the Palais de Justice (Law Courts), this gemlike Holy Chapel is Paris’ most exquisite Gothic monument. Ste-Chapelle was built in just six years (compared with nearly 200 years for Notre Dame) and consecrated in 1248. The chapel was conceived by Louis IX to house his personal collection of holy relics, including the famous Holy Crown (now in Notre Dame). Peek at its exterior from across the street, by the law courts’ magnificently gilded 18th-century gate facing rue de Lutèce.
A combined ticket with the Conciergerie costs €12.50.
reviewed
-
Q
Mavrommátis
Sea-blue window frames and olive trees in giant terracotta pots whisk gourmet punters off to the Med at this well-established Greek restaurant. One bite into a tarama- drenched toast, aubergine fumée (smoked aubergine), salade grecque (tomatoes, lettuce, peppers and feta) or crépines d’agneau sur lit de tomates, courgettes et pommes de terre (lamb tripe with tomatoes, courgette and potatoes) and those inauthentic Greek takeaway joints on rue de la Huchette and streets like rue St-Séverin are instantly put to shame. Reserve in advance.
reviewed
-
Gardens & Monuments
The Parvis, place de la Défense and Esplanade du Général de Gaulle – a pleasant 1km walkway – is an open-air contemporary art gallery. Calder, Miró, Agam, César and Torricini are among the international artists behind the colourful and often surprising sculptures and murals on Voie des Sculptures (Sculptures Way), the Quartier du Parc (Park District) west of the Grande Arche and Jardins de l’Arche, a 2km-long extension of the Axe Historique. Meandering around this skyscraper district in search of these works of art is fun.
reviewed
-
R
Indonesia
One of a couple of Indonesian restaurants in Paris, this well-established eatery, around for more than 25 years, has all the old favourites, from an elaborate, nine-dish rijstafel (rice with side dishes) to lumpia (a type of spring roll), rendang (spicy beef or chicken curry) and gado-gado (vegetable salad with spicy peanut sauce; €6). Numerous menus are available at lunch and dinner. Traditional décor, incense and the gentle rhythm of the gamelan orchestra create a convincing atmosphere. Balinese dancers dance some Friday evenings.
reviewed