In many ways this is the centre of London, where rallies and marches take place, tens of thousands of revellers usher in the New Year and locals congre-gate for anything from communal open-air cinema to various political protests. The great square was neglected over many years, ringed with gnarling traffic and given over to flocks of feral pigeons. But things changed in 2000 when Ken Livingstone became London Mayor and embarked on a bold and imaginative scheme to transform it into the kind of space John Nash had intended when he designed it in the early 19th century. Traffic was banished from the northern flank in front of the National Gallery and a new pedestrian plaza built. Square The square commemorates the victory of the British navy at the Battle of Trafalgar against the French and Spanish navies in 1805 during the Napoleonic wars. The main square contains two beautiful fountains, which are dramatically lit at night. At each corner of the square is a plinth (a small column topped with a statue), three of them topped with statues of military leaders and the fourth, in the northeast corner, now a ubiquitous art installation called, imaginatively, the Fourth Plinth (see p000). The plaza at the north, in front of the National Gallery, is a favourite of street performers. Nelson’s Column Standing in the centre of the square since 1843, the 52m-high Nelson’s Column (upon which the admiral surveys his fleet of ships to the southwest) honours Admiral Lord Nelson, who led the fleet’s victory over Napoleon. The column is flanked by four enormous bronze statues of lions sculpted by Sir Edwin Landseer and cast with seized Spanish and French cannons. Buildings around Trafalgar Square The pedestrianisation of Trafalgar Square has made it easier to appreciate not only the square but also the splendid buildings around it: the National Gallery, the National Portrait Gallery and the newly renovated church of St Martin-in-the-Fields. The ceremonial Pall Mall runs west from the top of the square. To the west is Canada House (1827), designed by Robert Smirke. If you look southwest down Whitehall, you’ll also get a glimpse of Big Ben at the Houses of Parliament. Events Countless cultural events are held here, showcasing the city’s multiculturalism, with celebra-tions for Christmas, Chinese New Year, African music concerts, film screenings and so on. In recent years, Trafalgar Square has become a top protest venue too, with demonstrations against the war in Iraq, conflicts in Gaza and Sri Lanka and other international hot potatoes taking place here. Admiralty Arch To the southwest of Trafalgar Square stands Admiralty Arch, where the Mall begins and leads to Buckingham Palace. It is a grand Edwardian monument, a triple-arched stone entrance de-signed by Aston Webb in honour of Queen Victoria in 1910. The large central gate is opened only for royal processions and state visits.