Colombia

Getting around

Boat

With some 3000km of Pacific and Atlantic coastline, there is a considerable amount of shipping traffic, consisting almost exclusively of irregular cargo boats, which may also take passengers. They are of little interest to travelers except, perhaps, boats from Buenaventura to Isla de Gorgona.

Rivers are important transport routes in regions such as the Chocó and the Amazon where there is no other way of getting around. Unfortunately, both these regions are noted for guerrilla and paramilitary activities and are not recommended for tourists, except the area around Leticia.

The Río Magdalena was once the principal waterway of the central part of the country, but no longer has much importance as far as river transport goes. The only boats you are likely to use on the Magdalena are in the Mompós area.

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Bus & tram

Bus

As there are almost no passenger-train services in Colombia, buses are the main means of travel. The system is well developed and extensive, reaching even small villages.

All intercity buses depart from and arrive at a terminal de pasajeros (bus terminal). Every city has such a terminal, usually outside the city center, but always linked to it by local transport. Bogotá is the most important bus transport hub in Colombia, handling buses to just about every area of the country.

On the main roads buses run frequently, so there is no need to buy tickets in advance - just go to the terminal, find which company has the next bus due to depart, buy your ticket and board. On some minor routes, where there are only a few departures a day, it's worth considering buying your ticket several hours before the scheduled departure. The only times you really need to book well in advance are during and around Christmas and Easter, when Colombians rush to travel.

Bus

Buses are the main means to get around the cities. Almost every urban centre of more than 100, 000 inhabitants has a bus service, as do many smaller towns. The standard, speed and efficiency of local buses vary from place to place, but on the whole they are slow and crowded. City buses have a flat fare, so the distance of the ride makes no difference. You get on by the front door and pay the driver or his assistant. You never get a ticket.

In some cities or on some streets there are bus stops (paraderos or paradas), while in most others you just wave down the bus. To let the driver know that you intend to get off you simply say, or shout, por aquí, por favor (here, please), en la esquina, por favor (at the next street corner, please) or el paradero, por favor (at the coming bus stop, please).

There are lots of different types of local buses, ranging from old wrecks to modern air-conditioned vehicles. One common type is the buseta (small bus), a dominant means of urban transport in cities such as Bogotá and Cartagena. The bus fare is somewhere between US$0.25 and US$0.40, depending on the city and type of bus.

Some cities, such as Bogotá also have colectivos. These vehicles ply main city routes, are faster than buses and charge about US$0.40.

A bus or buseta trip, particularly in large cities such as Bogotá or Barranquilla, is not a smooth and silent ride but rather a sort of breathtaking adventure with a taste of local folklore thrown in. You'll have an opportunity to be saturated with loud tropical music, learn about the Colombian meaning of road rules, and observe your driver desperately trying to make his way through an ocean of vehicles.

A special, new kind of bus is the TransMilenio, which was introduced to Bogotá in 2000. It's fast, clean and efficient, and has no musical entertainment.

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Car & motorcycle

Unfortunately, Colombia is not the best country for traveling by car or motorcycle. The major problem is security. Car theft is a well-established business and thieves usually steal accessories and anything of value left inside. More importantly, roads can be unsafe due to guerrillas, paramilitaries or common criminals - and cars are an obvious target. You may pass through unsafe regions undisturbed if you travel by public transport, but a nice jeep won't get through unnoticed.

In the cities, on the other hand, traffic is heavy, chaotic and mad. Driving 'manners' are wild and unpredictable. It takes some time to get used to the local style of driving, but even if you master it, the risk of an accident remains high.

Colombians drive on the right side of the road and there are seat belt requirements so buckle up or risk a fine.

If you do plan to drive in Colombia, bring your driver's license. The driver's license from your country will normally do, but if you want to be 100% sure, bring along an International Driving Permit as well.

Hire

Renting a car might be a better solution than bringing your own car, but it's still not recommended. It does save you the money you would spend on getting your own car to Colombia (but obviously adds car-rental costs). As well, your rental vehicle will have Colombian registration plates so it won't stand out from local vehicles as much and attract unwanted attention. But given the convenience of public transport, you may still be better off and safer using planes and taxis, rather than driving a rented car.

Should you still be determined to rent a car, it's best to contact major international rental companies such as Avis (www.avis.com), Hertz (www.hertz.com) or Budget (www.budget.com) at home before your trip to check what they can offer in Colombia (they all have offices in major Colombian cities and at El Dorado airport in Bogotá), and possibly to prebook, which is likely to be cheaper than renting a car after arrival.

Car rental is not cheap (expect to pay around US$50 a day) and there are seldom any discounts. Carefully check clauses pertaining to insurance and liability before you sign a rental contract. Pay close attention to any theft clause as it may load a large percentage of any loss on to the hirer.

Motorcycles

Some cities, especially in the north, use 'moto-taxis, ' which are a quick way of getting around if you're on your own. These, however, are not the safest method of transport and are even illegal in some places, including Cartagena (though no one seems to stop them). There may be options of renting a motorcycle, especially in resort-type areas such as San Andrés.

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Tours

There are very few genuine tour companies in Colombia, so don't expect many adventure tours. Some travel agencies organize tours, but these are mostly conventional affairs such as city tours, one-day excursions to nearby attractions and night chiva trips around the city discos. Longer, more adventurous tours to remote regions are thin on the ground, due to both safety fears and a lack of demand.

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Local transport

Metro

Medellín began constructing its metro in 1985 and opened it in 1995. It was the first (and is currently the only) Colombian city to have a fast metropolitan train system.

Bogotá spent 30 years drawing up plans for a subway but eventually dumped the idea in favor of a fast bus system called TransMilenio. It may not be as fast as a subway, but its building costs were five times less than the Medillín subway, saving the public from an additional tax burden.

Taxi

Taxis are an inexpensive and convenient means of getting around, especially if you are traveling with a few companions. The price will usually be the same, regardless of the number of passengers, though some drivers may demand more if you have a lot of luggage.

A taxi may also be chartered for longer distances. This is convenient if you want to visit places near major cities that are outside local transport areas but too near to be covered by long-distance bus networks.

In major cities taxis have meters, though drivers are not always eager to switch them on, preferring to charge a gringo fare, obviously far higher than the normal metered fare. It's always advisable to ask a few people beforehand (eg a bus terminal official or hotel receptionist) what the usual taxi fare to your destination would be. Then, ask the taxi driver for the expected fare, and if they quote a significantly higher fare, bargain and agree on a price. If you are not satisfied, try another taxi.

While taxis are officially obliged to display the current legal tariff, due to regular price rises their meters are not always adjusted to the latest tariff amount and the driver can legitimately ask more than is shown on the meter. In provincial towns metered taxis are rare. Instead there are commonly accepted fares on given routes so always fix the price beforehand.

Don't use taxis with a driver and somebody else inside. Taxi drivers sometimes have a friend along for company or for security reasons, but it may be insecure for you; some cases of robbery have been reported.

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Air

Flying is the fastest and arguably safest way to get around Colombia, but also the least interesting. For some destinations, such as Leticia, it may be your only option. Several domestic carriers share the load, including Avianca, SAM, Satena and AeroRepública, and most main cities are served by one of them. Prices are usually fixed between the airlines, but it's worth asking your agent if one airline has a special fare that could drop the price. If fares are the same, just look for the flight that best meets your schedule.

Tickets can be purchased directly from the airlines or from travel agents. Some small airlines operate from an office at the airport and may not accept credit-card payment. You'll need to show a passport and your entry stamp to buy a ticket. Ticket prices are usually the same whether you pay for it one month out or the day before, but discounts are sometimes given with an advance purchase so try to buy early. In any case, flights do fill up so get a ticket as early as possible to guarantee yourself a seat.

Check your ticket carefully to make sure that no mistakes have been made - errors are common. One way to minimize errors and make sure you get to the correct city is to show your agent a map of Colombia and point to where you want to fly to. If you plan to be in Colombia for a while, it's worth asking about discount air passes.

Airlines in colombia

Colombia has more than half-a-dozen main passenger airlines and another dozen smaller carriers. Note that at the time of research West Caribbean (which at one time connected San Andrés and Providencia) was not operating and it was questionable as to whether the company would remain in business. The on-board service of the major carriers is OK. As flight time is usually not much longer than an hour, don't expect any gastronomic treats; on most flights you get no more than a snack. The following fly a variety of routes:

AeroRepública (1-320 9090; www.aerorepublica.com.co) The second-biggest airline covers much the same domestic territory as Avianca.

Aires (1-336 6039; www.aires.com.co) This smaller operation uses mostly turbo planes and travels to smaller localities.

Avianca/SAM (1-404 7862; www.avianca.com) Longtime principal domestic airline, with the widest network of both domestic and international routes. Avianca has merged with the Medellín-based SAM.

Satena (1-281 7071; www.satena.com) This is the commercial carrier of the FAC (Colombian Air Force) and services flights to the vast areas of the Amazon, Los Llanos and the Pacific coast; it lands at 50 small towns and villages that would be otherwise virtually inaccessible. It is also the only airline flying to Providencia.

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Bicycle

Colombia is not the easiest of countries for cyclists. Road rules favor drivers and you'll end up fighting traffic on main roadways. Never assume that a driver will give you right of way. On the plus side, most roads are paved and security is improving. Even the smallest towns will have a repair shop and you can get your bike fixed cheaply and easily. Bike rentals are uncommon but you can buy a bike almost anywhere. However, if you want something really reliable, bring your own bike and all your own kit.

It is also worth nothing that cities are becoming more bike friendly, with new bike tracks and ciclovías (the weekend closures for cars and buses of selected streets, making them tracks for bikers and skaters instead).

Bike shops in some towns may have a bike for you to rent, but don't count on it.

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