Things to do in Colombia
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Crepes & Waffles
One of 35 Bogotá locations of this ever-busy chain – which employs women in need – we like this one best: a two-story brick home with sidewalk seats between Zona G and Zona Rosa. Like the others, it serves up veggie, meat and seafood crepes, plus irresistible ice cream–topped waffles (COP$5000).
reviewed
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La Puerta Falsa
This is Bogotá's most famous snack shop – with displayed multicolored candies beckoning you into this tiny spot that's been in business since 1816. Some complain it's nothing but foreigners with their Lonely Planet guides these days, but don't buy it – there were no other gringos on a Saturday morning in September. The moist tamales and chocolate completo (hot chocolate with cheese, buttered bread and a biscuit; COP$5000) remain a Bogotá snack of lore.
reviewed
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Old Town
Without doubt, Cartagena's old city is its principal attraction, particularly the inner walled town, consisting of the historical districts of El Centro and San Diego. It is a real gem of colonial architecture, packed with churches, monasteries, plazas, palaces and mansions with their overhanging balconies and shady patios.
The old town is surrounded by Las Murallas, the thick walls built to protect it against enemies. Construction began towards the end of the 16th century, after the attack by Francis Drake; until that time Cartagena was almost completely unprotected. The project took two centuries to complete due to repeated damage from both storms and pirate attacks.…
reviewed
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Jardín Botánico Joaquín Antonio Uribe
Across from the Universidad de Antioquia is the city's Jardín Botánico. Opened in 1978, the garden has 600 species of trees and plants, a lake, herbarium, auditorium and the Orquideorama where an orchid display is held in March and April. Just across the street is the sleek, all-concrete Parque de los Deseos, a favorite hangout of the area's college students.
reviewed
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Salto de Ángel
Parque 93’s best location – a raised restaurant with cavernous rooms topped with bamboo poles and huge windows overlooking the park – the ‘Angel Falls’ is often full. It’s probably just as good for its setting and drinks (or an excellent slushy cantaloupe juice, COP$4000) as it is for its typical fare: steaks, salads, sandwiches, fajitas.
reviewed
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Donostia
This hip restaurant run by five boyhood friends puts a Mediterranean twist on Colombian food - adding spices to lighten up its meals. Meat lovers will enjoy the chuleta de cerdo BBQ (pork ribs grilled with a special recipe native to Mompós). You can hear live music here on Wednesday.
reviewed
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Palacio de la Cultura Rafael Uribe Uribe
Palacio de la Cultura Rafael Uribe Uribe, adjacent to the Berrío metro station in an ornate black-and-white building, hosts concerts and events, art expositions, conferences and workshops. Check its website for what’s on.
reviewed
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Restaurante Fulanitos
Fulanitos is a beautifully arranged, informal place which offers food typical of the Valle del Cauca in southern Colombia. It has excellent views.
reviewed
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Palacio de la Inquisición
The haunting Palace of the Inquisition is one of the finest buildings in town. Although the site was the seat of the Punishment Tribunal of the Holy Office from 1610, the palace wasn't completed until 1776. It is a good example of late-colonial architecture, noted particularly for its magnificent baroque stone gateway topped by the Spanish coat of arms, and the long balconies on the facade.
On the side wall, just around the corner from the entrance, you'll find a small window with a cross on top. Heretics were denounced here, and the Holy Office would then instigate proceedings. The principal 'crimes' were magic, witchcraft and blasphemy. When culprits were found guilty…
reviewed
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Quinta de San Pedro Alejandrino
This is the hacienda where Simón Bolívar spent his last days and died. The hacienda was established at the beginning of the 17th century and was engaged in cultivating and processing sugarcane. It had its own trapiche (sugarcane mill) and a destilería (distillery).
During the Bolívar era, the hacienda was owned by a Spaniard, Joaquín de Mier, a devoted supporter of Colombia's independence cause. He invited Bolívar to stay and take a rest at his home before his intended journey to Europe.
Several monuments have been built on the grounds in remembrance of Bolívar, the most imposing of which is a massive central structure called the Altar de la Patria. Just to the right…
reviewed
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Mompós
Minding its own business in the northern Colombian interior, Mompós is another colonial time warp. The atmosphere around here is certainly unique in Colombia - it feels more like the bayous of Mississippi - and is well worth experiencing. Mompós also has a tradition in literature and was the setting for Chronicle of a Death Foretold by Gabriel García Márquez.
Founded in 1537 on the eastern branch of the Río Magdalena, Mompós became an important port through which all merchandise from Cartagena passed to the interior of the colony. Toward the end of the 19th century, shipping was diverted to the other branch of the Magdalena, ending the town's prosperity and leaving…
reviewed
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Parque El Gallineral
San Gil’s showpiece is the mystical Parque El Gallineral, a 4-hectare park set on a triangle-shaped island between two arms of the Quebrada Curití and Río Fonce. Nearly all of the 1876 trees are covered with long silvery tendrils of moss called barbas de viejo, or old man’s beard, hanging from branches to form translucent curtains of foliage and filtered sunlight. It’s like a scene set in JRR Tolkien’s Middle Earth. Several paths and covered bridges snake through the urban forest and over the rapids. After your hike, relax with a swim in the large spring-fed pool or sip a cerveza at one of the pricey restaurants and cafes.
reviewed
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Museo Histórico Policía
This surprisingly worthwhile museum not only gets you inside the lovely ex-HQ (built in 1923) of Bogotá's police force, but gives you 45 minutes or so of contact time with 18-year-old, English-speaking local guides who are serving a one-year compulsory service with the police (interesting tales to be heard). The best parts otherwise follow cocaine-kingpin Pablo Escobar's demise in 1993 – with a model dummy of his bullet-ridden corpse, his Harley Davidson (a gift to a cousin) and his personal Bernadelli pocket pistol, otherwise known as his 'second wife.'
reviewed
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Andrés Carne de Res
Hang onto your hats. This legendary steakhouse blows everyone away – even repeat visitors – for its all-out-fun atmosphere with decent steaks and all sorts of surreal decor and designed gimmicks such as menus retracting from the rafters. For most, it’s more than a meal – but a leave-the-watch-at-home expanse of late-night rumba. Staff will get you on the floor if you resist joining in. The catch is that it’s out of town – in Chía, 23km north towards Zipaquirá.
reviewed
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Plaza de Bolívar
The usual place to start discovering Bogotá is Plaza de Bolívar, the heart of the original town. In the middle of the square is a bronze statue of Simón Bolívar (cast in 1846), the work of an Italian artist, Pietro Tenerani. This was the first public monument erected in the city.
In the center, beside the 1846 bronze statue of Bolívar (of course), are flocks of pigeons that dive-bomb anyone within 50m of the square - a hat is a good idea.
reviewed
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Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas
The castillo is the greatest and strongest fortress ever built by the Spaniards in any of their colonies. The original fort was commissioned in 1630 and was quite small. Construction began in 1657 on top of the 40m-high San Lázaro hill. In 1762 an extensive enlargement was undertaken, which resulted in the entire hill being covered over with this powerful bastion. It was truly impregnable and was never taken, despite numerous attempts to storm it.
A complex system of tunnels connected strategic points of the fortress to distribute provisions and to facilitate evacuation. The tunnels were constructed in such a way that any noise reverberated all the way along them, making…
reviewed
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Donde Chucho
Serving the best seafood on the coast, and sitting on prime real estate on the newly renovated Parque Santander. Start with the signature salad (shrimp, octopus, calamari and manta smoked in olive oil) and move on to robaloau gratin (mozzarella and parmesan). Divine. If this place doesn’t fit your budget, go Monday to Thursday between 6pm to 9pm and enjoy cocktails at 2-for-the-price-of-1. Don’t miss it.
reviewed
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La Gorda
Thanks to a local law that requires major new buildings to include public art, central Medellín can seem like a vast, outdoor art gallery. Besides the Plazoleta de las Escultras, you can see Botero's massive bronze woman's torso known as La Gorda, in front of the Banco de la República in Parque Berrío. There are also three more Botero sculptures in the Parque San Antonio.
reviewed
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Reserva Tanimboca
At Reserva Tanimboca visitors can monkey around atop 35m-high trees, then slide 80m along zip-lines from one tree to another through the beautiful forest canopy (COP$60,000). Other activities include kayaking (COP$20,000) and nocturnal jungle hikes (COP$150,000). Or splurge for an overnight stay in a treehouse (single/double/triple COP$150,000/200,000/300,000).
reviewed
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Il Forno
Set in the middle of the zona rosa, this open-air Italian restaurant doesn't do gimmicks or discounts, just hearty food at a fair price. It serves pizza and sandwiches, lasagna and ravioli, and even steak. It may not be gourmet, but at this price, who cares?
reviewed
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Café Colombo
On the top floor of the building also housing the Centro Colombo Americano, this minimalist spot serves up light meals along with stunning views of the city and mountains. Go for the set meal (COP$15,500), which changes weekly, or try the crepes, pasta, steak or trout. Its 10th-floor outdoor terrace is a great spot for cocktails early in the evening.
reviewed
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Museo Nacional
Housed in the expansive, Greek cross-shaped building called El Panóptico and designed as a prison by English architect Thomas Reed in 1874. Walking through the (more or less) chronological display of Colombia's past, you pass iron-bar doors into white-walled halls. Signage is Spanish only, but each floor offers a few handy English placards you can take along with you for the highlights.
The ground floor looks at pre-Columbian history, with rather oblique references to past groups and some gripping Muisca mummies that may date as far back as 1500 years. On the 3rd floor, room 16 gives the best sense of old prison life – with old cells now done up in various exhibits. The…
reviewed
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Zoológico de Cali
The Zoológico de Cali has a good collection of species indigenous to Colombia, including chiguiros (capybaras), oso hormigueros (anteaters), condors, monkeys and a mariposario (butterfly enclosure). It’s 2km southwest of the center in Barrio Santa Teresita and is most easily accessed by taxi.
reviewed
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La Casa de Socorro
This is a good little spot to try comida costeña, the typical food of the coast. It’s a casual spot with nice design touches like paintings on recycled walking planks, and the menu features staples like robalo (sea bass) smothered in cheese and garlic, along with more adventurous fare such as snail or turtle soup.
reviewed
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Feria de Cali
The main city event is the Feria de Cali. It lasts from Christmas to New Year's, with parades, masquerades, music, theatre, bullfights and general citywide revelry. Given the city's staunch faith in the beauty of its women, it's no surprise that the beauty pageant also draws in hordes of spectators.
reviewed