Things to do in Popayán
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Iglesia de San Francisco
The Iglesia de San Francisco is the city’s largest colonial church and arguably the most beautiful. Inside are a fine high altar and a collection of seven unique side altars. The 1983 earthquake cracked open the ossary, revealing six unidentified mummies. Two are left, and you can visit them on a one-hour guided tour of the church that includes the five-story bell tower and the outdoor cupolas. Look for the tourist policeman outside the church doors who conducts the tours.
reviewed
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Las Ardillas
The 10-hectare private nature reserve Las Ardillas has six canopy lines totaling 1200m that you can ride. There’s a swimming pool and sauna, and a restaurant serves drinks and snacks. The reserve is 8km south of Popayán. Take any bus bound for Timbío (COP$1000, 20 minutes) and get off at the Mi Bohío gas station. From here’s it’s a 2.4km walk to the actual site.
reviewed
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Los Quingos de Belén
This is the place to come for typical regional specialties, including bandeja paísa (platter of sausage, beans, egg, rice and arepa) and, on the weekends, sancocho and ajiaco. There’s salsa on the stereo, a breezy outdoor dining area to relax on, and cocktails and pizza.
reviewed
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Museo Guillermo Valencia
Museo Guillermo Valencia is dedicated to the Popayán-born poet who once lived here. The late-18th-century building is full of period furniture, paintings, old photos and documents related to the poet and his son, Guillermo León Valencia, who was Colombia’s president from 1962 to 1966.
reviewed
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Casa Museo Mosquera
Casa Museo Mosquera is housed in an 18th-century mansion that was once home to General Tomás Cipriano de Mosquera, a politician and historian who was Colombia’s president on four occasions between 1845 and 1867. Note the urn in the wall; it contains Mosquera’s heart.
reviewed
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La Cave
This French restaurant has French food and service to match (that is, the food is good, the service can be a little snooty). It does awesome sandwiches, such as chicken cordon bleu or pork with raisins, and also serves pasta, steak and savory crepes.
reviewed
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Panteón de los Próceres
Located just next door to the theater is the neoclassical Panteón de los Próceres, which shelters the remains of Popayán’s most illustrious sons, including General Tomás Cipriano de Mosquera and botanist Francisco José de Caldas (1770–1816).
reviewed
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La Pizzarra
Cartoons with pizza punchlines adorn the walls of this top-notch pizza parlor. Located just outside the colonial center, the low prices represent great value. Try gourmet options such as chicken, olives and sun-dried tomatoes. Delivery is an extra COP$1000.
reviewed
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Museo de Historia Natural
Just east of the historic center you’ll find the Museo de Historia Natural. One of the best of its kind in the country, it’s noted for its extensive collection of insects, butterflies and, in particular, stuffed birds.
reviewed
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El Quijote
On the highway outside of town is the best restaurant in Popayán. Quijote does great grilled meat, fantastic salads and has live guitar music on the weekend. The huge outdoor patio faces a small park. Well worth the short taxi ride.
reviewed
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Museo Arquidiocesano de Arte Religioso
Museo Arquidiocesano de Arte Religioso has a good collection of religious art, including paintings, statues, altar pieces, silverware and liturgical vessels, most of which date from the 17th to 19th centuries.
reviewed
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Restaurante Italiano
Swing open the saloon doors of this Swiss-owned Italian joint and you’ll find great pizza and pasta, and a decent wine list. If the prices put you off, go for the set meal (COP$7500), one of the best we’ve had in Colombia.
reviewed
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CC Campanario
Be sure to check out CC Campanario. This monster new shopping mall has a huge drinking hall and is a casual place to meet people in the early evening. There’s also a gourmet food court nearby.
reviewed
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Cathedral
The neoclassical cathedral is the youngest church in the center, built between 1859 and 1906 on the site of a previous cathedral, which had been completely destroyed by an earthquake.
reviewed
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Iglesia La Ermita
Built in 1546, Iglesia La Ermita is Popayán’s oldest church and worth seeing for its fine main retable and the fragments of old frescoes, which were only discovered after the earthquake of 1983.
reviewed
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El Sotareño
In the center, El Sotareño is a 40-year-old classic, and plays tango, bolero and ranchera (traditional music of Mexico) on scratched old vinyls.
reviewed
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Palo Santo
For late night disco visit Palo Santo, where the crowd dances on table tops to Colombian crossover. It is COP$7000, 15-minute taxi ride from the center.
reviewed
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Teatro Guillermo Valencia
It is worth strolling past the early 20th-century Teatro Guillermo Valencia. Ask nicely at the box office and they may give you an ad-hoc tour.
reviewed
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Millenio
For late night disco visit Millenio, which plays techno in a warehouselike space. It is COP$7000, 15-minute taxi ride from the center.
reviewed
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Peña Bar Killa Raymi
For a taste of Ecuador, Peña Bar Killa Raymi hosts live, amplified panpipe musicians, and has a great atmosphere.
reviewed
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Bar La Iguana
For salsa, try Bar La Iguana, which cranks the volume on weekends and shows videos on a large projection screen.
reviewed
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La Cosecha
This reliable grill restaurant does great beef and chicken dishes on an open-air grill, and has Club Colombia on tap.
reviewed
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Kaldivia Café
Check out Kaldivia Café, which roasts its own coffee and does great iced coffee drinks.
reviewed
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Restaurante Vegetariano Naturaleza y Vida
This nothing-special veggie restaurant will do if you’re in a bind. Sometimes serves veggie burgers.
reviewed
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Madeira
Madeira hosts live music on Saturday and serves coffee in tiny earthenware cups.
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