Sights in Xī’ān
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Shaanxi History Museum
Shaanxi's museum is often touted as one of China's best, but if you come after visiting some of Xī'ān's surrounding sights you may feel you're not seeing much that is new. Nevertheless, the museum makes for a comprehensive and illuminating stroll through ancient Cháng'ān, and most exhibits include labels and explanations in English.
The ground floor covers prehistory and the early dynastic period. Particularly impressive are several enormous Shang- and Western Zhou-dynasty bronze tripods (dǐng), Qin burial objects, bronze arrows and crossbows, and four original terracotta warrior statues.
Upstairs, the second section is devoted primarily to Han-dynasty relics. The…
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Forest of Stelae Museum
Housed in Xī'ān's Confucius Temple, this museum holds over 1000 stone stelae (inscribed tablets), including the nine Confucian classics and some exemplary calligraphy. The second gallery holds a Nestorian tablet (AD 781), the earliest recorded account of Christianity in China. (The Nestorians professed that Christ was both human and divine, for which they were booted out of the Church in 431.) The fourth gallery holds a collection of ancient maps and portraits, and is where rubbings (copies) are made, an interesting process to watch.
The highlight, though, is the fantastic sculpture gallery (across from the gift shop), which contains animal guardians from the Tang…
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City Walls
Xī'ān is one of the few cities in China where the old city walls are still standing. Built in 1370 during the Ming dynasty, the 12m-high walls are surrounded by a dry moat and form a rectangle with a perimeter of 14km.
Most sections have been restored or rebuilt, and it is now possible to walk the entirety of the walls in a leisurely four hours. You can also cycle from the South Gate (bike hire Y20 for 100 minutes, Y200 deposit). The truly lazy can be whisked around in a golf cart for Y200. Access ramps are located inside the major gates, with the exception of the South Gate, where the entrance is outside the walls; there's another entrance inside the walls beside the…
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Great Mosque
One of the largest mosques in China, the Great Mosque is a fascinating blend of Chinese and Islamic architecture. Facing west (towards Mecca) instead of the usual south, the mosque begins with a classic Chinese temple feature, the spirit wall, designed to keep demons at bay. The gardens, too, with their rocks, pagodas and archways are obviously Chinese, with the exception of the four palm trees at the entrance. Arab influence, meanwhile, extends from the central minaret (cleverly disguised as a pagoda) to the enormous turquoise-roofed Prayer Hall (not open to visitors) at the back of the complex, as well as the elegant calligraphy gracing most entryways. The present…
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Folk House
This well-rounded historic residence also serves as an art gallery, entertainment centre and teahouse. Originally the home of the Qing bureaucrat Gao Yuesong, it's a fine example of a courtyard home and has been tastefully restored. There are reception rooms, bedrooms, servants' quarters, an ancestral temple and a study (now the teahouse).
Tours start with an optional marionette or shadow-puppet demonstration (Y10). As the complex currently belongs to the Shaanxi Artists Association, there's an art gallery here where you can pick up reasonably priced traditional Chinese art. Confusingly, despite the address, this place isn't at No 144, but is about 20m down the street.
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Little Goose Pagoda
The Little Goose Pagoda is in the pleasant grounds of Jianfu Temple. The top of the pagoda was shaken off by an earthquake in the middle of the 16th century, but the rest of the 43m-high structure is intact.
Jianfu Temple was originally built in AD 684 to bless the afterlife of the late Emperor Gaozong. The pagoda, a rather delicate building of 15 progressively smaller tiers, was built from AD 707-709 and housed Buddhist scriptures brought back from India by the pilgrim Yi Jing.
You can mount the pagoda for a worthy panorama of Xī'ān.
Bus 610 runs here from the Bell Tower; from the South Gate take bus 203.
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Big Goose Pagoda
Xī'ān's most famous landmark, this pagoda dominates the surrounding modern buildings. One of China's best examples of a Tang-style pagoda (squarish rather than round), it was completed in AD 652 to house the Buddhist sutras brought back from India by the monk Xuan Zang. Xuan spent the last 19 years of his life translating scriptures with a crack team of linguist monks; many of these translations are still used today. His travels also inspired one of the best-known works of Chinese literature, Journey to the West.
Surrounding the pagoda is Dà Cí'ēn Temple (大慈恩寺; Dàcí'ēn Sì), one of the largest temples in Tang Cháng'ān. The buildings today date from the Qing…
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Temple of the Eight Immortals
Xī'ān's largest Taoist temple dates back to the Song dynasty and is still an active place of worship. Supposedly built on the site of an ancient wine shop, it was constructed to protect against subterranean divine thunder. Scenes from Taoist mythology are painted around the courtyard. Empress Cixi, the mother of the Last Emperor, stayed here in 1901 after fleeing Beijing during the Boxer Rebellion. There's a small antique market opposite, which is busiest on Sundays and Wednesdays.
Bus 502 runs close by the temple (eastbound from Xi Xinjie).
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Drum Tower
While the Bell Tower originally held a bell that was rung at dawn, the Drum Tower marked nightfall. It too dates from the 14th century and was later rebuilt in the 1700s. Musical performances are held inside from 09:00 to 11:30 and 14:30 to 17:30. Close by, a covered market sells dried fruits and delicious cakes.
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Bell Tower
The Bell Tower originally held a large bell that was rung at dawn; it dates from the 14th century and was later rebuilt in the 1700s. Initially it stood two blocks to the west. Musical performances are held inside from 09:00 to 11:30 and 14:30 to 17:30. It is entered through the underpass on the north side.
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8th Route Army Memorial
The Communist Party's austere Xī'ān headquarters, the 8th Route Army Memorial, were located here from 1937 to 1946. The memorial consists primarily of old photos (no English) and one room dedicated to the activist Helen Foster Snow, the wife of journalist Edgar Snow.
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Tang Paradise Theme Park
The city's most popular destination for Chinese tourists is probably the 165-acre Disneyfied Tang Paradise Theme Park, which aims to re-create an entertainment-oriented version of the Tang dynasty.
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Tang Dynasty Arts Museum
The Tang Dynasty Arts Museum, on the eastern side of the Da Ci'en Temple, has a small collection specifically devoted to Tang clothing, architecture and artefacts.
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Da Ci'en Temple
Surrounding the Big Goose Pagoda is Da Ci'en Temple, one of the largest temples in Tang Cháng'ān. The buildings today date from the Qing dynasty.
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Xī'ān Museum
Housed in the pleasant grounds of the Jiànfú Temple is this new-ish museum featuring relics unearthed in Xī'ān over the years. There are some exquisite ceramics from the Han dynasty, as well as figurines, an exhibition of Ming-dynasty seals and jade artefacts. Don't miss the basement, where a large-scale model of ancient Xī'ān gives a good sense of the place in its former pomp.
Also in the grounds is the Little Goose Pagoda. The top of the pagoda was shaken off by an earthquake in the middle of the 16th century, but the rest of the 43m-high structure is intact. Jiànfú Temple was originally built in AD 684 to bless the afterlife of the late Emperor Gaozong. The…
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Muslim Quarter
The backstreets leading north from the Drum Tower have been home to the city's Hui community (Chinese Muslims) for centuries. Although Muslims have been here since at least the 7th century, some believe that today's community didn't take root until the Ming dynasty.
The narrow lanes are full of butcher shops, sesame-oil factories, smaller mosques hidden behind enormous wooden doors, men in white skullcaps and women with their heads covered in coloured scarves. It's a great place to wander and especially atmospheric at night. Good streets to stroll down are Xiyang Shi, Dapi Yuan and Damaishi Jie, which runs north off Xi Dajie through an interesting Islamic food market.
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Bell Tower & Drum Tower
Now marooned on a traffic island, the Bell Tower sits at the heart of Xī'ān and originally held a large bell that was rung at dawn, while its alter ego, the Drum Tower, marked nightfall. Both date from the 14th century and were later rebuilt in the 1700s (the Bell Tower initially stood two blocks to the west). Musical performances, included in the ticket price, are held inside each at 9am, 10.30am, 11.30am, 2.30pm, 4pm and 5pm. Enter the Bell Tower through the underpass on the north side.
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