Sights in Canary Islands
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Las Palmas de Gran Canaria
Las Palmas is the big smoke, the only place in the Canary Islands, apart from Santa Cruz de Tenerife, with an unmistakable big-city feel. While it oozes the kind of sunny languor you'd associate with the Mediterranean or North Africa, its snarled traffic, bustling shopping districts, chatty bars and thriving port all give off the energy of a city, Spain's seventh largest.
The historic centre, though small, is rich in interest and undergoing a rebirth as an entertainment precinct. Combined with Playa de las Canteras, it could keep the average hedonist busy for days. The flavour is Spanish, with a heavy international overlay. You'll find a lively mix of Chinese, African,…
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Parque Natural de Corralejo
The beach dunes of the protected Parque Natural de Corralejo stretch along the east coast for about 10km from Corralejo. It can get breezy here, hence the popularity with windsurfers and kite boarders. The locals have applied their ingenuity to the sand-sticking-to-the-suntan-lotion problem by erecting little fortresses of loose stones atop shrub-covered sandy knolls to protect sun-worshippers from the wind. The area is free to enter, and sun lounges and umbrellas are available for hire in front of the luxury hotels.
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Camel Safari Park La Baranda
After the water rides and Guanches, how about a trip to the Orient? Camel Safari Park La Baranda has 70 camels and is located in a lush property with palms and avocado and citrus trees and also has a restaurant, bar and small zoo.
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Torre del Conde
Set in a park just off the coast, Torre del Conde is considered the Canary Islands' most important example of military architecture. Here, Beatriz de Bobadilla, wife of the cruel and ill-fated Hernán Peraza, had to barricade herself in 1488 until help arrived.
Governor Hernán Peraza the younger had long been hated for his cruel treatment of the islanders. When, in 1488, he broke a pact of friendship with one of the Gomero tribes and, openly cheating on his wife, began cavorting with Yballa, a local beauty and fiancée of one of the island's most powerful men, the natives rebelled. They surprised Peraza during one of his clandestine meetings with Yballa and killed him with…
reviewed
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Santuario de la Virgen de las Nieves
For great views over Santa Cruz and the shore, take the relatively easy 2km hike north of town to La Palma's main object of pilgrimage, the 17th-century Santuario de la Virgen de las Nieves .
To walk from Plaza Alameda, follow the road, which becomes a signposted dirt track, westwards up the gorge of the Barranco de las Nieves. It will take nearly 45 minutes to walk up, but coming back is faster. By car, follow signs from the Avenida Marítima where it crosses the barranco (ravine), then turn right on the Carretera de las Nieves (LP-101) and continue winding up the hillside until you see signs for the sanctuary. The curve-filled 5km trip takes nearly 15 minutes. Bus 10…
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Parque Nacional de Garajonay
Covering 10% of La Gomera's surface, this 4000-hectare (9884-acre) park forms a knot in the island's centre and is a haven for some of the planet's most ancient forest. Over 400 species of flora, including its famous laurel, can be found here. Most trails running through the park were once used by the Gomeros. The majority of the hikes are relatively light, and you can get a solid view of the landscape without venturing too far.
Many independent visitors make for Alto de Garajonay (1487m/4879ft), the island's tallest peak. From here, clouds permitting, you can see the islands of Tenerife, La Palma, El Hierro and sometimes even Gran Canaria. Another favourite stop is La…
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Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Concepción
The city's oldest church, Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Concepción, has a striking bell tower, tiled roof and some traditional mudéjar (Islamic-style architecture) ceiling work. The present church was built in the 17th and 18th centuries but the original building went up in 1498, just after the island was conquered.
At the heart of the shimmering silver altar is the Santa Cruz de la Conquista (Holy Cross of the Conquest), which gives the city its name. Tradition has it that Alonso Fernández de Lugo, the Spanish commander, planted it in his camp to give thanks for his 1494 victory over the Guanches.
Check out the anteroom to the sacristy. The altarpiece in the chapel…
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Roque Cinchado
A few kilometres south of the peak, across from the parador, lies this geological freak show of twisted lava pinnacles with names like the Finger of God and the Cathedral. Known as the Roques de García, they are the result of erosion of old volcanic dykes, or vertical streams of magma. The hard rock of the dykes has been bared while surrounding earth and rock has been gradually swept away.
The weirdest of the rocks, the Roque Cinchado, is wearing away faster at the base than above, and one of these days is destined to topple over (so maybe you shouldn't get too close). Spreading out to the west are the otherworldly bald plains of the Llano de Ucanca. This is the most…
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Casa/Museo de Colón
The Casa/Museo de Colón is a superb example of Canarian architecture, built around two balconied patios, complete with fountains, palm trees and parrots. The exterior is a work of art itself, with some showy plateresque (silversmith-like) elements combined with traditional heavy wooden balconies.
Although called Columbus' House (it's possible he stopped here to present his credentials to the governor in 1492), most of what you see dates from the time this was the opulent residence of Las Palmas' early governors.
The museum's four sections include fascinating accounts of Columbus' voyages, the Canary Islands role as a staging post for transatlantic shipping, pre-Columbian…
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Castillo de la Fortaleza
This miniature stone-turreted castle was built fifty years ago, not for tourism purposes, but as a folly; it was also the home of local archaeologist, writer, artist and collector, the late Vicente Sanchez Araña.
The museum has sixteen rooms which reflect the eclectic interests and energy of this veritable Renaissance man. The most impressive houses a well-labelled (in several languages) archaeological display - the Guanche artefacts were found in nearby caves. These include a tiny carved female idol; a Guanche symbol and one of only two in the world (the other is exhibited in a museum in France). Another room displays ancient armaments, including a 16th-century crossbow…
reviewed
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Caldera de Taburiente
The heart of the park is the Caldera de Taburiente itself; literally, the Taburiente 'Stewpot' or 'Cauldron'. A massive depression 8km wide and surrounded by soaring rock walls (it doesn't take much imagination to see where the name came from), it was first given the moniker in 1825 by German geologist Leopold von Buch, who took it to be a massive volcanic crater. The word 'caldera' stuck, and was used as a standard term for such volcanic craters the world over.
This caldera, however, is no crater, although volcanic activity was key in its creation. Scientists now agree that this was a majestically tall volcanic mountain, and that it collapsed on itself. Through the…
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Museo de Arte Contemporáneo
Converted in 1994 by the Fundación César Manrique into a sleek modern-art museum, the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo is housed in the Castillo de San José, which was built in the 18th century to deal with pirates and, at a time of famine on the island, to provide unemployed locals with a public-works job scheme. Today it houses the most important collection of modern art in the Canaries.
Aside from a couple of early works by Manrique himself (which may help explain why he turned to architecture), artists such as Miró, Millares, Rivera, Gerardo Rueda, Sempere and Tápies are on show. Both gallery and restaurant are well worth the 30-minute walk from the city centre.
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Catedral de Santa Ana
The city's brooding, grey Catedral de Santa Ana was begun in the early 15th century, soon after the Spanish conquest, but took 350 years to complete. The neoclassical facade contrasts with the interior, which is a fine example of what some art historians have denominated Atlantic Gothic. The retable above the high altar comes from Catalunya (mainland Spain) and the exquisite lamp hanging before the altar was made in Genoa (Italy).
The cathedral also displays several paintings by Juan de Miranda, the islands' most respected 18th-century artist.
You can access the cathedral's tower if you fancy a stunning and wide-ranging view of the surrounds from the city to the coast.
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Basílica de la Virgen del Pino
Dominating the town square is the Basílica de la Virgen del Pino, a neoclassical 18th-century church, and home to Gran Canaria's patron saint. According to legend, the Virgin was spied atop a pine tree in the nearby forest in the 15th century, which turned Teror into a quasi-Fatima pilgrimage site. The church interior, a lavishly gilt-laden affair, sees the enthroned Virgen de la Nieve illuminated in her place of honour at the heart of a lavishly ornate altarpiece, surrounded by angels.
It's a pity about the piped religious music, but the sign to turn off your mobile phone is spot on, stating that 'you don't need a mobile to talk to God'.
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Casa Museo de Unamuno
About the only sight, as such, is the modest Casa Museo de Unamuno . The philosopher Miguel de Unamuno, exiled for his opposition to the dictatorship of Primo de Rivera, stayed here in 1924. He later escaped to France before returning to his position at Salamanca University when the Republicans came to power in 1931.
The ground-floor house has been turned into a period piece, with four rooms furnished from Unamuno's day, including the bedroom (complete with potty!) and his study with original desk. You'll get a warm smile at the entrance, but if you're after information in anything other than Spanish, you're short on luck.
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Casa de la Aguada
Just off Plaza Constitución, which is shaded by enormous Indian laurel trees, is Casa de la Aguada, also referred to as Casa de la Aduana or Casa Condal, since at different times it served as the customs house and the count's residence. The tourist office fills one side of this traditional Canary home, but the back of it is dedicated to the exhibit 'La Gomera & the Discovery of America', an interesting account (though all in Spanish) of Columbus' trip and Gomeran culture in those times.
According to folklore, Columbus drew water from the well that sits in the central patio and used it to 'baptise America'.
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Dunas de Maspalomas
In 1994 the fabulous Dunas de Maspalomas were designated a national park. The best view of them is from the bottom of Avenida Tirjana. Stroll through the arches of the Hotel Riu Palace Maspalomas to the balcony, which is surrounded by a botanical garden displaying many shrubs and plants endemic to the Canaries. There is a small information office here with sporadic opening hours.
Although the dunes look too pristine to blight with footprints, you can walk on the sand, but do respect the signs and keep to the designated trails. Alternatively, you can go the full Sahara and opt for a camel trip.
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Loro Parque
Where else can you see 3000 parrots (the world's largest collection) all in one place? Loro Parque is home to 340 species of parrots along with other exotic animals, including tigers, gorillas and chimpanzees. Unless you object in principle to wild animals in captivity, the park is quite impressive. Don't miss the dolphin and whale shows, the subterranean aquarium with the world's longest submarine tunnel and the vast 'penguinarium'.
You could walk here from town, but it's much easier to hop on the free train that leaves every 20 minutes from outside McDonalds on Plaza Reyes Católicos.
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Iglesia de San Juan
The extraordinary, neo-Gothic Iglesia de San Juan stands sullen watch over the bright white houses of Arucas in a striking display of disproportion. The church has a Sagrada Familia (Gaudi) look with its elaborate pointed spires and was, fittingly, designed by a Catalan architect. Construction started in 1906 on the site of a former ermita (chapel) and was completed 70 years later.
Within, a fine 16th-century Italian Crucifixion hangs above the altar; the wooden Cristo Yacente (Reclining Christ) is similarly impressive, together with three magnificent rose windows.
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Iglesia de San Juan
This extraordinary, neo-Gothic church stands watch sullenly over the bright, white houses of Arucas in a striking display of disproportion. The church has a Sagrada Familia (Gaudi) look with its elaborate pointed spires, and was, fittingly, designed by a Catalan architect.
Construction started in 1906 on the site of a former ermita, and was completed some 70 years later. Within, a fine 16th-century Italian Crucifixion hangs above the altar; the wooden Cristo Yacente (Reclining Christ) is similarly impressive, together with three magnificent rose windows.
reviewed
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Museo del Emigrante Canario
The Castillo de Santa Bárbara is not only the oldest fort on the Canaries, but the only castle that really looks the part. Perched up on Guanapay peak, with sweeping views across the plains, it was erected in the 16th century by Sancho de Herrera, consequently expanded and then fell into disuse. Since being restored, it houses the modest, yet fascinating, Museo del Emigrante Canario, a poignant collection relating to the long history of migration from the islands to Spain's American colonies.
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Castillo de Santa Bárbara
The Castillo de Santa Bárbara is not only the oldest fort on the Canaries, but the only castle that really looks the part. Perched up on Guanapay peak, with sweeping views across the plains, it was erected in the 16th century by Sancho de Herrera, consequently expanded and then fell into disuse. Since being restored, it houses the modest, yet fascinating Museo del Emigrante Canario, a poignant collection relating to the long history of migration from the islands to Spain's American colonies.
reviewed
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Volcán San Antonio
Don't miss the short but breathtaking walk along the rim of Volcán San Antonio. It takes just 20 minutes to walk the gravel path halfway around the yawning chasm of this great black cone, which last blew in 1949 and is now being repopulated by hardy Canary pines. Afterwards, take a look at the small visitor centre, where a seismograph constantly measures volcanic movement in the area shows a boring but comforting straight line. You can also take a camel ride around the volcano.
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Casa/Museo de Pérez Galdós
In 1843 the Canary Islands' most famous writer, Benito Pérez Galdós, was born in this house in the heart of old Las Palmas. He spent the first 19 years of his life here before moving on to Madrid and literary greatness.
The house contains a reconstruction of the author's study, various personal effects and other objects related to his life. It is a delightful place with a pretty central courtyard. Guided tours take place hourly, but only in Spanish.
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Museo Elder de la Ciencia y la Tecnología
This 21st-century Museo Elder de la Ciencia y la Tecnología is full of things that whirr, clank and hum. It occupies a revamped docks' warehouse to the east of Parque Santa Catalina and is a great space to spend a few hours. Children will be rapt at some of the displays - a space pod, interactive chromakey screen and graphic depiction of a baby's birth - while adults may be equally fascinated by the 'how the internet functions' exhibit.
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