Things to do in La Gomera
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Torre del Conde
Set in a park just off the coast, Torre del Conde is considered the Canary Islands' most important example of military architecture. Here, Beatriz de Bobadilla, wife of the cruel and ill-fated Hernán Peraza, had to barricade herself in 1488 until help arrived.
Governor Hernán Peraza the younger had long been hated for his cruel treatment of the islanders. When, in 1488, he broke a pact of friendship with one of the Gomero tribes and, openly cheating on his wife, began cavorting with Yballa, a local beauty and fiancée of one of the island's most powerful men, the natives rebelled. They surprised Peraza during one of his clandestine meetings with Yballa and killed him with…
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Casa de la Aguada
Just off Plaza Constitución, which is shaded by enormous Indian laurel trees, is Casa de la Aguada, also referred to as Casa de la Aduana or Casa Condal, since at different times it served as the customs house and the count's residence. The tourist office fills one side of this traditional Canary home, but the back of it is dedicated to the exhibit 'La Gomera & the Discovery of America', an interesting account (though all in Spanish) of Columbus' trip and Gomeran culture in those times.
According to folklore, Columbus drew water from the well that sits in the central patio and used it to 'baptise America'.
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Dehesa de Majona
North of town, on the TF-711 highway, is an interesting bike trail leading into the Dehesa de Majona, the largely uninhabited pastureland to the north of the capital. The dirt track begins near a lookout point, venturing towards the goat-herding villages of Casas de Enchereda and Casas de Juel before winding its way towards the coast and eventually joining up with sealed local roads near Hermigua. The lonely route can be hiked in about eight hours (one way).
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Marqués de Oristano
This 16th-century Canary house has been completely renovated to create this sprawling three-in-one eatery. The old stables are now an informal tavern where you can order drinks and tapas; the garden is a bar and grill serving lots of simple fish dishes; and the upstairs living quarters have been transformed into an upscale 'gourmet restaurant' serving dishes like boned kid with black potatoes, and potato confit.
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Iglesia de la Virgen de la Asunción
Head up Calle Real to Iglesia de la Virgen de la Asunción, the site where Columbus and his men supposedly came to pray before setting off for the New World. The original chapel was begun in 1450 but was destroyed by a fire. The 18th-century church here today has three naves and mixes mudéjar (Islamic-style architecture), Gothic and baroque architectural styles.
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La Cuevita
Tucked into a natural cave beside the port, where plants dangle from the ceiling and low lighting creates a cosy atmosphere, La Cuevita serves fresh local seafood, such as tuna, vieja (parrot fish), lapas (limpets), chocos (cuttlefish), along with grilled meats, all served with papas arrugadas (wrinkly potatoes) and a tangy red mojo.
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La Casa Creativa
Upstairs, a quirky café serves fresh juices, homemade pies and pastries and an ever-changing array of tapas (vegetarian options are always available). For dinner, the formal downstairs restaurant serves slightly overpriced Canarian and international fare. The German owners also rent out a few apartments and arrange occasional yoga classes.
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Club de Mar
To learn more about whales and dolphins, contact the Club de Mar. This is both a marine-life investigation centre and a whale-watching outfitter with daily cruises that normally include the presence of a marine biologist, so that you can truly learn something about local marine life. All the cruises set sail from the Vueltas port.
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Chinea Morales
In Playa Santiago itself, splashing in the waves, rambling along the rocky shore and marvelling over the peaceful ocean view will likely take up most of your time. To get out on the water, you can hop on a cruise boat. Tour companies include Chinea Morales. Most trips include lunch and a swim.
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El Silbo
The best place for typical Canarian cuisine like tuna with mojo, fried rabbit or chipirones (tiny squid). A covered terrace with bright tablecloths and an abundance of hanging plants makes for a pleasant, if slightly jungle-like, dining experience.
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Tina
The motorboat Tina cruises daily around the south and west of the island, towards Los Órganos, a weird rock formation visible only from the water. The day-long trip could include some spontaneous whale or dolphin watching, as well as a little tuna fishing.
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Plaza Américas
Most of the interesting sites in the town centre are somehow related to Columbus (in either real or contrived ways), and they form a route you can follow around town. Begin at Plaza Américas, where you can get a juice in one of the terrace bars.
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Bar-Zumería Puntallana
A favourite Canarian species, the juice bar is a fabulous spot for breakfast, a quick lunch or a pick-me-up. The juices here, made on the spot with fresh and often local fruit, are outstanding and the cold and hot sandwiches are cheap and filling.
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Iglesia de la Encarnación
The modern town is centred around the Iglesia de la Encarnación. This church was begun in the 17th century and not completed until the 20th, partly due to the fact that the original construction crumbled in the early 18th century.
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Restaurante Breñusca
Locals say this slightly greasy-feeling bar/diner/restaurant is one of the best spots in town to try simple, traditional Canarian fare like homemade fried calamari, meatballs and stews. The catch of the day is always recommended.
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Restaurante El Baifo
For something different come to this Malaysian-French restaurant, where woks and curries are served in a dining room with touches of Asian décor. Vegetarians will find lots of options, which is something rare around here.
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Mirador de la Hila
To get a good overview of San Sebastián, head up the road to the Parador Nacional Conde de la Gomera hotel, where the Mirador de la Hila showcases the coast, the square houses of town and the rough, dry mountains beyond.
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Molino de Gofio
A reconstructed windmill where gofio was once ground. The quick tour leads you around the museum and mill. Afterwards, you can taste gofio accompanied by sweet wine. There's also a good restaurant here.
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Volcanic Beach
The sandy Volcanic Beach is a nice place to relax and have a swim. It's also the site of some of the town's liveliest festivals, such as El Día de San Juan (St John's Day), when the beach is lined with bonfires.
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Church & Convent of Santo Domingo
At the heart of the original village, to the right as you enter from San Sebastián, are the 16th-century Church & Convent of Santo Domingo, with an intricately carved mudéjar ceiling.
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Bar Cacatua
Open all day, this relaxing place serves drinks, salads and sandwiches to a mixed crowd. There's a small bar area indoors, and outside is a large, shady patio with a few scattered tables.
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Playa de la Cueva
Past the port, and accessible via a small tunnel, is the smaller and prettier, though often windy, Playa de la Cueva . On a clear day, Tenerife seems like it's within spitting distance!
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Restaurante El Charcón
A tiny, 10-table restaurant dug out of the rock near the shore, El Charcón specialises in fish and Gomeran specialities like almogrote (cheese spread) and mojos.
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Restaurante La Islita
This convincingly Italian eatery serves just what you'd expect - a variety of pasta and pizza dishes with plenty of tomato, basil and oregano. The daily special is sure to please.
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Restaurante Junonia
A local favourite with a porch out front and a welcoming, farmhouse style, Junonia serves fresh local fish and other Gomeran specialities on blue-and-white-checked tablecloths.
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