Brazil

Getting around

Boat

The Amazon region is probably the last great bastion of passenger river travel in the world. Rivers still perform the function of highways throughout much of Amazonia, with passenger-carrying vessels of many shapes and sizes putt-putting up and down every river and creek that has anyone living near it.

Boat is also the only – or at least, the most interesting – way of getting around many parts of the Pantanal and to the many islands and beaches along the Atlantic coast.

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Bus & tram

Bus

Except in the Amazon Basin, buses are the primary form of long-distance transportation for the majority of Brazilians and many foreign travelers. Bus services are generally excellent. Departure times are usually strictly adhered to, and most of the buses are clean, comfortable and well-serviced Mercedes, Volvos and Scanias.

All major cities are linked by frequent buses – one leaves every 15 minutes from Rio to São Paulo during peak hours – and there are a surprising number of long-distance buses. It is rare that you will have to change buses between two major cities, no matter what the distance. Every big city, and most small ones, has at least one main long-distance bus station, known as a rodoviária (pronounced ho-do-vi-ah-ri-ya).

Bus service and road conditions vary by region. The South has the most and the best roads. Coastal highways are usually good; while the roads of Amazonia and the sertão (backlands of the Northeast) are quite bad. The Quatro Rodas Atlas Rodoviário, a very useful road atlas for any traveler, helpfully marks the worst stretches of road with lines of large Xs and classifies them as estradas precárias.

Brazil has numerous bus companies and the larger cities have several dozen rival agencies. Before buying a bus ticket from São Paulo or Rio de Janeiro to other destinations, be sure to shop around.

Costs

Bus travel throughout Brazil can be expensive; convencional fares average from R$6 to R$9 per hour. Sample fares from Rio are as follows: São Paulo (six hours), R$57 convencional, R$74 leito; Florianópolis (18 hours), R$146 convencional, R$179 leito; Salvador (25 hours), R$167 convencional; Foz do Iguaçu (22 hours), R$185 convencional; Belém (52 hours), R$313 executivo.

Bus

Local bus services tend to be pretty good in Brazil. Since most Brazilians take the bus to work every day, municipal buses are usually frequent and their network of routes is comprehensive. Fares range from R$1.50 to R$2.10.

In most city buses, you get on at the front and exit from the back, though occasionally the reverse is true. Usually there’s a money collector sitting at a turnstile just inside the entrance.

Crime can be a problem on buses. Don’t take valuables onto the buses.

Jumping on a local bus is one of the best ways to get to know a city. With a map and a few dollars you can get an overview of the town.

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Car & motorcycle

Especially in Rio, the anarchic side of the Brazilian personality emerges from behind the driver’s wheel as lane dividers, one-way streets and sidewalks are disregarded. The police take little interest in road safety.

Bringing your own vehicle

All vehicles in Brazil must carry the registration document and proof of insurance. To take a vehicle in or out of Brazil, you might be asked for a carnet de passage en douane, which is kind of a vehicle passport, or a libreta de pasos por aduana, which is a booklet of customs passes; in practice these are not often required. Contact your local automobile association for details about all documentation.

Hire

A small four-door car with insurance and unlimited kilometers costs around R$100 a day (R$130 with air-con). You can sometimes get discounts for longer rentals.

To rent a car you must be 25 years old (21 with some rental firms, including Avis), have a credit card in your name and a valid driver’s license from your home country (not just an IDP).

There is little price variation among the major rental companies, except for the occasional promotional deals. Some agencies have been known to add extra charges onto your credit card long after you’ve returned the vehicle. This is less likely to happen with more-established agencies.

Insurance

Minimum coverage is always tacked onto the cost of renting, though you can get extra protection (a wise idea) for another R$20 to R$40.

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Train

Brazil’s passenger-train services have been scaled down to almost nothing, supplanted long ago by the personal automobile. There are still over 30,000km of track, but most trains carry only cargo. Rail enthusiasts should not quite despair, however, as there are still a couple of great rides. The outstanding trip goes from Curitiba to Paranaguá, descending the coastal mountain range with some unforgettable views. The Belo Horizonte–Vitória run, via Santa Bárbara and Sabará, is far more pleasant than the bus ride.

Steam trains in Brazil are affectionately known as Marias Fumaça (Smoking Mary), and a couple of them still run as leisure attractions. One such is the 13km ride from São João del Rei to Tiradentes in Minas Gerais. Another pleasant short trip, this time by electric train, is the ride through the Serra da Mantiqueira of São Paulo state from Campos do Jordão to Santo Antônio do Pinhal, the highest stretch of track in the country.

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Travel documents

Reservations

Usually you can go down to the bus station and buy a ticket for the next departing bus. In general, though, it’s a good idea to buy a ticket at least a few hours in advance or, if it’s convenient, the day before departure. On weekends, holidays and from December to February, advance purchase is always a good idea. It’s sometimes possible to buy bus tickets from travel agencies. Although they tack on a small commission, it will save you an extra trip out to the bus station. Ask at local tourist offices for agencies that sell bus tickets.

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Local transport

Metro

Both Rio and São Paulo have excellent metro systems. These are a safe, cheap and efficient way of exploring the city. One-way fares cost around R$2.30.

Taxi

Taxi rides are reasonably priced, and are the best option for getting around cities at night, and across town in a hurry. Taxis in cities usually have meters that start at R$4.30 and rise by something like R$3 per km (more on nights and weekends). Occasionally, the driver will refer to a chart and revise slightly upwards. This reflects recent official hikes in taxi rates and the meter has not yet been adjusted.

In small towns, taxis often don’t have meters, and you’ll have to arrange a price ­beforehand.

Some airports and bus stations have a system for you to purchase a fixed-price taxi ticket from a bilheteria (ticket office). At a few such places it’s much cheaper to go onto the street outside and find a cab that will take you for the meter fare or sometimes even less. If you are carrying valuables, however, the special airport taxi, or a radio taxi, can be a worthwhile investment. These are probably the safest taxis on the road.

If possible, orient yourself before taking a taxi, and keep a map handy in case you find yourself being taken on a wild detour. The worst place to get a cab is where the tourists are. Don’t get a cab near one of the expensive hotels. In Rio, for example, walk a block away from the beach at Copacabana to flag down a cab.

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Air

Because of the great distances in Brazil, the occasional flight can be a necessity, and may not cost much more than a long-haul bus journey. If you intend to take more than just a couple of flights, a Brazil Airpass will probably save you money. Book ahead for busy travel times – from Christmas to Carnaval, Easter, July and August. Always reconfirm your flights, as schedules frequently change.

Brazil’s worst aviation disaster in the country’s history occurred in 2007, when a TAM flight from Porto Alegre crashed on São Paulo’s Congonhas runway. Pilots and industry experts have long claimed the runway was too short, which was partially to blame in the tragic accident. This may mean changes on the horizon for Congonhas and other Brazilian airports.

Airlines

Brazil has three major national carriers and many smaller regional airlines. The biggest airlines are Gol, TAM and Varig. At least one of these flies to every major city. Gol tends to be the cheapest and have the most routes.

Tickets can only be purchased online with an Amex card, but you can buy them from any travel agent with cash.

Brazil’s main carriers:

Gol (0800-280 0465; www.voegol.com.br)

Ocean Air (0300-789 8160; www.oceanair.com.br)

TAM (0800 570 5700; www.tam.com.br)

Trip (0800-789 8747; www.airtrip.com.br)

Varig (0xx11-4003 7000; www.varig.com.br)

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Bicycle

You don’t see many long-distance cyclists in Brazil. Crazy drivers who only respect vehicles larger than themselves, lots of trucks on the main roads spewing out unfiltered exhaust fumes, roads without shoulder room and the threat of theft are just some of the reasons for this. Long-distance cycling in Brazil is not recommended; it’s a dangerous thing to do.

If you’re still determined to tackle Brazil by bike, go over your bike with a fine-tooth comb before you leave home and fill your repair kit with every imaginable spare part. There are a few decent bike shops in Rio for buying equipment and gear – as well as renting bikes (which averages R$50 per day).

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