Things to do in The Northeast
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Ponta Negra
Ponta Negra, at the far south end of the city, is the nicest beach in Natal - nearly 3km long and full of hotels, pousadas, restaurants, beach bars, surfers and sailing boats. On weekends it gets pretty packed: the northern part of the beach, with its pedestrian-only walkway, is less crowded. The surf here is consistent if small: you can rent boards from a few places along the beach for around R$25 a day. At the south end of the beach is Morro da Careca, a spectacularly high sand dune with a steep face that drops straight into the sea. Access to the dune has been closed off to prevent further erosion and damage to the primary Atlantic rain forest that covers it.
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Easy Drop
For a structured weeklong surfing experience, including classes and accommodation, look into surf camp Easy Drop.
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Bodega
This stylish pizzeria and Italian eatery offers prime people-watching, gourmet pies and potent cocktails.
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Sorveteria Bali
Grab an outdoor table and enjoy Maceió’s best ice cream. Among favorites are walnut, guava and tapioca.
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Beaches
The waters of Morro's four conveniently named main beaches are mostly calm, shallow and warm, and their sands are narrow and swallowed by the high tides.
Tiny Primeira Praia is lined with pousadas and has a decent surf break. Deep Segunda Praia (500m) is the 'action' beach with pousadas, restaurants, nightclubs and a sea of tables and chairs. Pousadas and anchored boats dominate one end of Terceira Praia (1km). Once you pass a pair of restaurants, Quarta Praia (2km) is a long, lovely stretch of sand graced by tall, swaying palms. For even more isolated peace, continue on at low tide to Praia do Encanto (5km) or further down the island to Garapuá, which has one pousada.
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Praia do Futuro
Fortaleza's best beach, Praia do Futuro is a clean length of sand that stretches 5km (3.1mi) south along Av Dioguinho to the Clube Caça e Pesca (Hunting and Fishing Club). It is easily the city's best beach, though it's a fair way from most hotels. Barracas (kiosks) serving crab and beer line the beach, which gets packed on weekends. It doesn't start getting really nice until you're at least 1km (0.6mi) away from the industrial port.
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Nove Ilhas Tour
From the nearby village of Pontal da Barra, schooners leave at around 09:00 and 13:00 on the Nove Ilhas (Nine Islands) tour. The trip lasts four hours and, in addition to cruising the Lagoa Mundaú, you'll stop at the outlet of the lake into the ocean. Departures are from Pontal da Barra's lakefront restaurants, such as O Peixarão or Alípio. A five-person minimum is required, so call ahead.
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Museu Théo Brandão
The Museu Théo Brandão is housed in a handsomely renovated colonial building on the seafront. Excellent exhibits cover the state’s history and popular culture; the most impressive displays are festival headpieces modeled after churches, which are loaded with mirrors, beads and multicolored ribbons and weigh up to 35kg. Traditional dance performances are staged some evenings.
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Surfing
Surfboard rental and surf lessons are easily arranged. Zebra & Pepê offer board rentals. The coast south of Itacaré is characterized by rough surf (better for surfing than swimming).
There has been a rash of muggings at and around Itacaré's beaches, so take little money and nothing of value. Avoid the trails through the forests past late afternoon.
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Jangadas
Jangadas sail out 2km at low tide to natural pools formed by the nearby reef. On a busy day, the pools fill up with people (clouding the water for those interested in snorkeling) and waiters run around serving drinks from floating bars. You can arrange trips with any boat captain - stop in early to find out when the boats are sailing. Embark at Praia de Pajuçara.
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Instituto Ricardo Brennand
From Tuesday to Friday afternoons, you can visit the scenic Instituto Ricardo Brennand, Oficina Cerâmica Francisco Brennand's cousin’s museum. This contains a massive collection of European and Brazilian art, swords, armor and historical artifacts in a fake medieval castle on lovely grounds.
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Cantina Jeri
Excellent value spot offering a ridiculously extensive (and good) list of pastas and risottos. Dishes are meant for one, but when they show up – placed on the table in the very pan in which they were cooked – they can easily serve two, catapulting this Italian-run midrange into the budget category.
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Pimenta Verde
This delightful little corner café with only a few tables pumps out memorable cuisine from the former chef at longtime favorite Carcará. The octopus Provençal (best dish in Jeri?) and the green peppercorn filet are both divine. Cute artistic touches round out the culinary happiness.
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Mangai
This spectacular regional buffet is worth the stop in João Pessoa alone. Nearly everything is labeled in English and there’s plenty for vegetarians. Save room for the decadent caramelized cashews smothered in doce de leite (creamy milk-and-sugar concoction) and chocolate.
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Brazil Trip Tour
The multilingual Brazil Trip Tour specializes in English-speaking surf lessons and ecological tours. It also arranges volunteer work in the community (English teachers are especially welcome) and 10- to 14-day ‘Cruz the Coast’ tours between Rio and Salvador.
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Jeri Moon
This is a good agency which organizes trips. Apart from buggy day trips you can also take buggy or 4WD trips as far west as Parnaíba and the Lençóis Maranhenses – easier though more expensive than public transport.
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Cozinha Aberta
This gourmet bistro, specializing in slow food, serves eclectic fare from Thai noodles to Italian pastas. The setting is charming and homelike, with daily specials spelled out on chalkboards.
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Sabor da Vila
One of the top Bahian restaurants in town, Sabor da Vila serves excellent moquecas, picanha (tender seirloin steak), grilled fish and other mouthwatering dishes.
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Praia de Ponta Verde
The most popular and beautiful of the city beaches is Praia de Ponta Verde. Protected by an offshore coral reef, Maceió's ocean waters are calm and a deep emerald color.
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Socaldinho Guaiamum
This long, large, always bustling, semi-open-air restaurant pulls in families, couples and groups of friends for good-value, good-quality meat, seafood and pasta.
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Mamma Itália
If you're in the center or the northern part of town, it's worth stopping in here for quality Italian fare. The spinach-and-ricotta ravioli is divine.
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Mercado Praia de Pajuçara
The Mercado Praia de Pajuçara is an enclosed craft market on Pajuçara's waterfront selling lacework, hammocks, baskets and ceramics.
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Wanchaco
This highly acclaimed Peruvian restaurant serves excellent seafood in a cozy, creatively decorated setting.
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Associação de Bugeiros
Dune-buggy excursions are offered by a host of would-be Ayrton Senna bugeiros (buggy drivers), mostly in Brazilian-built vehicles with brand names such as Bird, Baby, Praya or Malibuggy.
There are pirate bugeiros and accredited bugeiros; the latter are represented by the Associação de Bugeiros. You can arrange buggy trips through most pousadas, agencies or, if you speak some Portuguese, directly with drivers.
To the north are the dunes of Genipabu, which are the biggest around. You'll be asked if you want the trip com emoção (with emotion), and if you agree you'll be treated to thrills such as Wall of Death and Vertical Descent. It is possible to go as far as you like…
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Igreja NS do Bonfim
If you've ever wondered where Pelourinho vendors get their fitas (colored ribbons), look no further than the 18th-century Igreja NS do Bonfim. Fitas are a souvenir of the church and have come to symbolize Bahia itself. Bonfim's fame derives from its power to effect miraculous cures, which has transformed it from a rather ordinary church into a popular shrine.
In the Sala dos Milagres (Room of Miracles) on the right side of the church, devotees leave photos, letters and ex votos - wax replicas of body parts representing those that were cured or need curing.
Due to Candomblistas' syncretization of Jesus Christ (Nosso Senhor do Bonfim) with Oxalá, their highest deity, Bonfim…
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