Blame Canada
Posted Monday, July 02, 2007, 5:21 PM by Lonely Planet
The 36-seat plane is tiny, but so is the archipelago we're flying to on this morning flight from Montreal. Quebec's Iles de la Madeleine consist of a dozen islands with a population of just over 12,000. However, they have plentiful supplies of the important things in life: 350km of beach and a selection of boites a chansons offering live music most nights during the summer.
The plane's passengers, mostly French-speaking Quebecois tourists, emit a murmur of appreciation as we circle above a cresecent-shaped beach. It's like a rollercoaster ride. I'm wondering if there will be any Canada Day festivities here. The nationwide celebration of all things Canuck sees red-and-white-painted crowds fill the streets from Ottawa to Vancouver. However, not only are the islands part of a province with separatist leanings, but they're separated from the mainland by 215km of water.
Could this be a muted celebration?
As it turns out, there is a beach party planned for that night, and it receives mixed reactions from the islanders. The guy who runs my hostel says he's going to watch the firework show, then changes his tune when a guest informs him what the spectacle's in aid of. The manager of Pas Perdus bar hasn't heard about the party, but is keen to go when I tell him about it.
The event is a mellow affair, with kids playing in the sand and their parents drinking from a bar selling 'liqueur, eau, jus, chips, biere, Smirnoff'. It's much like a day at the beach, except it's the middle of the night and there's a country band playing. As the fireworks explode above the lights of boats bobbing on the dark water, I hear the day's second general sigh of appreciation. Quebec may have its separatist ambitions, but here on Iles de la Madeleine, any excuse to gather on the beach and drink Molson Dry will do.
James Bainbridge is currently researching the Quebec section of the upcoming Canada guide.
Labels: Festivals and events, The Americas
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3 Comments:
Please, there is much more than Molson Dry in Quebec... A Australian friend of mine just left Quebec with over 50 beer tags! You can do it!!
Three things:
1) You're right that there's a lot more than Molson Dry, Julie - there's also Labatt 50!
2) I'm pretty sure that Canada extends past Ottawa. There are plenty of celebrations in the Maritimes.
3) Saying that, "Quebec may have its separatist ambitions" implies (to me anyway) that everyone in Quebec is separatist - something that's blatantly false. There are many, many Quebeckers (both Francophone and Anglophone) who are equally proud to be part of Canada and who celebrate Canada Day every July 1. Not all of those people might choose to celebrate by getting ripped and stumbling out onto the main drag at 3 AM, but neither do many people who are celebrating in Squamish or Edmonton.
The point is, it'd be nice if people could avoid making gross generalisations - things which I thought travel writing was supposed to help debunk. Now, I guess I'll just wait for other people to nitpick what I've said... :)
What is so sad is that there is more than Molson Dry AND Labatt 50 in Canada.
When you were visiting Quebec's Iles de la Madeleine, did you completely miss "A l'abri de la tempete"?
This fabulous pub on Île du Cap aux Meules craft brews at least five different beers - a blonde, a spicy wheat, a red, a stout, and a smoky scotch ale. The first four are available on tap at restaurants like Pas Perdus, Le Vieux Couvent and Cafe la Grave, and l’Écume' is in bottles all over the islands.
I'll be posting about my summer 2007 visit soon on my own blog!
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