Things to do in Argentina
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Señor Tango
The most outrageous of them all, Señor Tango is the closest you’ll get to a Las Vegas show in Buenos Aires. With dozens of performers, live horses, two tiers of balconies and over 1500 seats, this granddaddy of tango shows is – for good or bad – an unforgettable experience. As long as you take it for what it is (that is, not authentic tango) you’ll be fine, and can join with Sting, Salma Hayek, Ivana Trump and Hillary and Bill Clinton in saying that you’ve spent an evening here.
reviewed
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Osaka
Sick of the same old cheap steaks? Then Osaka is your remedy, slicing up some of BA’s most exquisite cold, raw fish – and so much more. Catapulting Peruvian and Japanese cuisines together into a whole new level of creativity, Osaka ponies up sublime fusions that look like works of art and taste out of this world. You’ll have to experience it to believe it, so reserve a week in advance, load up the bank account and clear out those parrilla-worn taste buds.
reviewed
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Galerías Pacífico
Covering an entire city block, this beautiful French-style shopping center dates from 1889 and boasts vaulted ceilings with paintings done in 1954 by muralists Antonio Berni, Juan Carlos Castagnino, Manuel Colmeiro, Lino Spilimbergo and Demetrio Urruchúa. All were adherents of the nuevo realismo (new realism) school of Argentine art. For many years the building was semiabandoned, but a joint Argentine-Mexican team repaired and restored the murals in 1992.
reviewed
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La Estancia
For the full-on tourist experience, you can’t do better than La Estancia. Stop by the picture window and snap a photo of yourself in front of the huge spits of roasting meat, then step into the large dining room, have a seat and enjoy the murals. This steakhouse has been serving up grilled goods for decades, but there are also substantial salads for the meek. Though it might seem like a tourist trap, the meat is good and it’s fun enough to be worth it.
reviewed
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Monumento Nacional a La Bandera
Manuel Belgrano, who designed the Argentine flag, rests in a crypt beneath the colossal 78m-high Monumento Nacional a La Bandera, a chillingly nationalistic construction in pitiless stone. The monument’s redeeming attributes are its location near the Paraná waterfront, with stirring views of the river and its islands from the tower, accessed by elevator (no disabled access). The museum contains the original flag embroidered by Catalina de Vidal.
reviewed
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Arte Sano
This small, bright and pleasant health-food eatery cooks up excellent dishes, such as a zucchini, eggplant and tomato tart, soy burgers and veggie stir-fry. Desserts are good for the body, like the yogurt with granola or fruit salad. The tiny bakery attached sells things like brown rice, powdered ginger and whole-wheat breads. Also on offer are yoga, tai chi and dance classes, along with natural food workshops (for more info, see www.artesano-naturista.com.ar).
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Cabalgatas Carol Jones
For something special, contact the amiable Carol Jones, who offers half-day horseback riding from her family estancia outside of town for AR$280 per person. The price includes transportation to/from town and an excellent asado (barbecue grill) outside. She also offers multiday pack trips by horse for AR$800 per person per day.
reviewed
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Parque Temaikén
Outside Buenos Aires is the exceptional zoo, Parque Temaikén. Only the most charming animal species are on display (think meerkats, pygmy hippos and white tigers), roaming freely around natural enclosures. An excellent aquarium comes with touch pools, and plenty of interactive areas provide mental stimulation. Taxis from the center cost around AR$120 and take 40 minutes, or grab bus 60 marked ‘Escobar’ from Plaza Italia.
reviewed
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Cerro Aconcagua
Mendoza is famous for Cerro Aconcagua, the highest mountain in the Americas, but the majestic peak is only the tip of the iceberg when it comes to climbing and mountaineering here. The nearby Cordón del Plata boasts several peaks topping out between 5000m and 6000m, and there are three important rock-climbing areas in the province: Los Arenales (near Tunuyán), El Salto (near Mendoza) and Chigüido (near Malargüe).
reviewed
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Puente Pexoa
Corrientes is the heartland of the lively music and dance known as chamamé, and seeing a live performance is memorable. This relaxed restaurant features chamamé dances every weekend and it can be outrageous fun when the dancing starts. Men and women show up in full gaucho regalia, and up to four conjuntos (bands) may play each night, usually starting around 11pm. A taxi costs around AR$25 or grab bus 102.
reviewed
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Museo de la Memoria
A chilling testament to the excesses of Argentina’s military dictatorship, this museum occupies a space formerly used as a clandestine center for detention and torture. It was operated by the dreaded Department of Intelligence (D2), a special division created in Córdoba dedicated to the kidnap and torture of suspected political agitators and the ‘reassignment’ of their children to less politically suspect families.
The space itself is stark and unembellished, and the walls are covered with enlarged photographs of people who are still ‘missing’ after 30 years. There’s not much joy here, but the museum stands as a vital reminder of an era that human-rights groups hope…
reviewed
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Museo Histórico Provincial Marqués de Sobremonte
It’s worth dropping into this museum, one of the most important historical museums in the country, if only to see the colonial house it occupies: an 18th-century home that once belonged to Rafael Núñez, the colonial governor of Córdoba and later viceroy of the Río de la Plata. It has 26 rooms, seven interior patios, meter-thick walls and an impressive wrought-iron balcony supported by carved wooden brackets.
reviewed
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Caravana de Llamas
Based in the Posada de Luz, Caravana de Llamas is a recommended llama-trekking operator running half-day excursions (AR$140) around Tilcara, day trips in the Salinas Grandes (AR$180) and multiday excursions, including a five-day marathon from Las Yungas lowlands to Tilcara (AR$1750 to AR$2600). The guide is personable and well informed about the area. Llamas are pack animals: you walk, they carry the bags.
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Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur
The beautifully marshy land of this nature preserve makes it a popular site for weekend outings, when hundreds of picnickers, cyclists and families come for fresh air and natural views. If you’re lucky you may spot a river turtle or a coypu; bird-watchers will adore the 200-plus bird species that pause to rest here. You can rent bikes just outside the park entrance on the weekends (daily in summer).
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Hike to Garganta del Diablo
Of several interesting walks around Tilcara, the most popular is the two-hour hike to Garganta del Diablo, a pretty canyon and waterfall. Head toward the pucará, but turn left along the river before crossing the bridge. The path to the Garganta leaves this road to the left just after a sign that says 'Cuide la flora y fauna'. Swimming is best in the morning, when the sun is on the pool.
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Gaucho Day Trip from Buenos Aires: Santa Susana Ranch
8 hours (Departs Buenos Aires, Argentina)
by Viator
Experience a ‘fiesta gaucha’ (gaucho party) on this full-day tour from Buenos Aires to Estancia Santa Susana, a traditional ranch in the Argentina countryside.…Not LP reviewed
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Los Puestos
Though a little touristy – we can’t guarantee you won’t be treated to a rendition of ‘Sounds of Silence’ on the panpipes at lunchtime – this makes up ground with its decor of local stone and chunky wood. Tasty regional specialties feature heavily – barbecued llama (AR$24) is one – but it’s small touches, such as tiny bread rolls straight from the clay oven, that win friends.
reviewed
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Museo del Jamón
There's something comforting and inviting about old-school Spanish eateries such as Museo del Jamón. Perhaps it's the hanging hams that you know are soon destined to be carved for a delicious plate of crudo (raw proscuitto), or it's the thought that as you wait a delicious paella is being prepared for you while you graze some tapas. Perfect for a rainy BA day.
reviewed
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La Peña del Colorado
This lively spot – which many porteños swear is the best peña (folk music venue) in the city – puts on live folklórica shows. After the musical set, the performers pass around guitars and country-style instruments so the happy-go-lucky crowd can get in on the singing and strumming action. Diners can order a set menu ($50) or from the a la carte menu.
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Sayta
This estancia 40km from Salta runs excellent horseback-riding days, with optional asado (barbecue grill). It’s also a place you can stay to experience a taste of Argentine gaucho life. A half-day with/without lunch costs AR$170/125, and full-board accommodation for a night is AR$230 (with a day’s riding AR$345). Prices include transfers from Salta.
reviewed
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Tarquino
Built entirely of Patagonian cypress, this esteemed restaurant resembles a hobbit house with its wood stairway, carved wooden doorway, fireplace and troll-like architecture. The small menu is almost entirely parrillada (including a delicious cordero, or grilled lamb), though a pasta and a trout dish grace the menu as well. One of Bariloche’s best.
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Maputur
Similar trips to those offered by Grado 42. Rents mountain bikes for AR$45/60 per half-/full day.
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La Nueva Colonial
Enough reason to delay your departure, chef Cesar’s outstanding pastas (we recommend the sorrentinos with pesto) are divine creations, served up with fresh foccacia bread and a bottle of red. And if you don’t like it, it’s free (but a hard argument to make). He also prepares massive pepper steaks, salads and generous-sized desserts.
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Broccolino
Pick from over 25 sauces (including squid ink!) for your pasta, with a choice of rigatoni, fusilli, pappardelle and all sorts of stuffed varieties. If you can’t decide on your topper, try the delicious Sicilian sauce (spicy red peppers, tomato and garlic) or the pesto with mushrooms and garlic. Portions are large and the bread homemade.
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Perugia Bottier
In business for 50 years, this is one of Buenos Aires’ finest women’s shoe stores. The European-inspired designs are made from both Argentine and Italian leathers, and change seasonally. Shoes are handmade and take 10 days to finish; it costs about AR$650 a pair. An annex with different designs is two doors away.
reviewed