Activities in Northwest Argentina
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Caravana de Llamas
Based in the Posada de Luz, Caravana de Llamas is a recommended llama-trekking operator running half-day excursions (AR$140) around Tilcara, day trips in the Salinas Grandes (AR$180) and multiday excursions, including a five-day marathon from Las Yungas lowlands to Tilcara (AR$1750 to AR$2600). The guide is personable and well informed about the area. Llamas are pack animals: you walk, they carry the bags.
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Hike to Garganta del Diablo
Of several interesting walks around Tilcara, the most popular is the two-hour hike to Garganta del Diablo, a pretty canyon and waterfall. Head toward the pucará, but turn left along the river before crossing the bridge. The path to the Garganta leaves this road to the left just after a sign that says 'Cuide la flora y fauna'. Swimming is best in the morning, when the sun is on the pool.
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Río Colorado
A 5km walk southwest of town leads you to the Río Colorado. Follow the river upstream for about 1½ hours to get to a 10m waterfall, where you can swim. Look out for hidden rock paintings on the way (for a small tip, local children will guide you). You could combine this walk with a visit to Bodega de las Nubes.
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Coined
Córdoba is an excellent place to study Spanish; in many ways, being a student is what Córdoba is all about.
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Guided tours
Visitors may not use their own vehicles on park roads; only contracted guides with pickup trucks offer tours of sandy canyons where aboriginal petroglyphs and mortars adorn streambed sites. Nesting condors scatter from cliffside nests as vehicles invade their otherwise undisturbed habitat. On the usual two-hour tour from the park's headquarters, vehicles pass the dunes of El Playón, leading to the Puerta de Talampaya (Gate of Talampaya) entrance to the canyon.
Back on the road, the vehicles enter the red sandstone canyon, whose eastern wall reveals a conspicuous fault. The next major stops are the Chimenea del Eco, an extraordinary echo chamber where your voice seems to …
reviewed
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Finca Colomé
Some of Argentina’s finest wines are produced at this ecological bodega, which is set (as they say hereabouts) ‘where the devil lost his poncho, ’ some 20km down a spectacular gravel road west from Molinos. The vineyards (including some ancient pre-phylloxera European vines) and hotel enjoy a stunning natural setting, surrounded by hills and mountains that seem to change color hourly. Forward thinking on environmental, social and cultural fronts is also in evidence: the complex is electrically self-sufficient, has funded substantial infrastructural improvements in the local community and now boasts a stunning museum designed by artist James Turrell, with a permanent…
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Hiking
Several nearby peaks and destinations make hiking in the mountains around Tafí del Valle an attractive prospect; try 3000m Cerro El Matadero, a four- to five-hour climb; 3800m Cerro Pabellón (six hours); and 4600m Cerro El Negrito, reached from the statue of Cristo Redentor on RN 307 to Acheral. The trails are badly marked, and no trail maps are available; you can hire a guide for about Arg$10 an hour. Ask for more information at the tourist office.
An easier hike climbs Cerro Pelado for views over the town. Cross the bridge toward the Capilla, and you'll see the path on your left immediately afterward. It takes about 1¼ hours to climb, and less to come down.
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Bodega de las Nubes
Five kilometers west of Cafayate along the road to Río Colorado (it’s signposted ‘Mounier’), small, organic and friendly Bodega de las Nubes has a fabulous position at the foot of the jagged hills. The short tour and tasting nominally costs AR$15, but if you buy wine it’s not charged. It also does tasty picadas here. Ring ahead to check it is open and if you want to eat. Grape-picking day in March is lots of fun, with volunteers welcomed.
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Walking
There are seven marked trails in the park, from 20-minute strolls to tough four-hour hikes. From the campsite, a short Guaraní cultural trail, dotted with weird signboards, introduces you to the lower tropical forest. For waterbirds, head to La Lagunita, about 1½ hours' walk from Aguas Negras. The La Junta trail starts 3km up the road from Aguas Negras, and is a four-hour return walk with steepish climbs rewarded by great views over the park.
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La Riojana Winery
La Rioja is one of the best areas to taste the aromatic white torrontés, though it’s far from the only wine the province has to offer. La Riojana cooperative is the area’s main wine producer, and a sizable concern. A good free tour (call or drop in to arrange a time; English is spoken) shows you through the bodega – think large cement fermentation tanks rather than rows of musty barrels – and culminates in a generous tasting.
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Road to La Quiaca
The road to La Quiaca is intriguing. After leaving the Quebrada de Humahuaca, paved RN 9 passes through Abra Pampa, a forlornly windy town 90km north of Humahuaca, and climbs through picturesque and typical altiplano landscapes. Nightly frosts make agriculture precarious, so people focus subsistence efforts on livestock (llamas, sheep, goats) that can survive on the sparse ichu grass. Look for the endangered vicuña off main routes.
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Latitud Sur
Run by an enthusiastic young couple with boundless knowledge of both the sierras and the city, Latitud Sur offers mountain-bike, trekking, rock-climbing and horseback-riding tours throughout the Sierras de Córdoba, including day trips to Los Gigantes and Parque Nacional Quebrada del Condorito. Prices range from AR$90 to AR$120, including transport, guide and lunch. Its city tours are outstanding, fun and only cost AR$25 per person.
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Cerro San Bernardo Teleférico
For outstanding views of Salta and its surroundings, take the teleférico from Parque San Martín to the top of Cerro San Bernardo. A trail that takes you up the hill begins at the Güemes monument at the top of Paseo Güemes. Atop is a confitería (cafe offering light meals), whose terrace has the best views, a watercourse and artesanía shops.
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Sayta
This estancia 40km from Salta runs excellent horseback-riding days, with optional asado (barbecue grill). It’s also a place you can stay to experience a taste of Argentine gaucho life. A half-day with/without lunch costs AR$170/125, and full-board accommodation for a night is AR$230 (with a day’s riding AR$345). Prices include transfers from Salta.
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Hasta las Manos
The organization of mountain guides, Hasta las Manos, is recommended for exciting multiday treks with mules to the Calilegua or Baritú national parks, with a stunning change in terrain as you descend into the subtropical forest systems. They also offer sandboarding at Abra Pampa (AR$160 for the day) and high-mountain excursions.
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Sumaq
A competent and professional setup, Sumaq is currently the only operator offering tours to the remote Parque Nacional Copo; it also offers good trips to other parts of northwestern Argentina. The office is in the same building as the Hotel Savoy – to get there, go through the restaurant and up a narrow spiral staircase.
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Clark Expediciones
Professional agency offering trips with highly competent English-speaking guides to the region’s national parks and remote uplands. They’re serious about bird-watching; trips include a half/full day in the Reserva Huaico (US$70/140), two days to Parque Nacional El Rey (US$340) and multiday tailored itineraries. Book well ahead.
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Corona del Inca
Runs summer excursions up to high, remote parts of the Andes in the west of the province. Also one of several operators who run excursions around the province, including visits to the Parque Nacional Talampaya, which invariably includes the nearby Parque Provincial Ischigualasto ('Valle de la Luna') in San Juan province.
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Salta Rafting
Runs two-hour white-water rafting trips on the Class III Río Juramento, 100km from Salta (AR$150 including a barbecue lunch; transportation to/from Salta AR$60 extra). At the same location are spectacular 400m ziplines across a canyon (four-/nine-line trip AR$120/180). Also runs mountain-biking excursions.
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Cuesta Vieja
Cuesta Vieja is an operator in town, running trips, which cost around AR$150 to AR$250 per person depending on numbers. There’s usually a minimum of two people, but it’s always worth asking. Tailored multiday trips are available, too.
reviewed
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Salir del Cráter
Operator Salir del Cráter runs trips which cost around AR$150 to AR$250 per person depending on numbers. There’s usually a minimum of two people, but it’s always worth asking. Tailored multiday trips are available, too.
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Movitrack
Innovative and reliable operator, with a variety of daytrips and multiday excursions with fixed departure days. Some use a characterful open truck, while others go in a pressurized minibus that prevents altitude sickness.
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Yokavil Turismo
Yokavil Turismo arranges tours to area attractions, including Gruta de la Virgen del Valle (AR$75), and trips to Belén, Londres and El Shincal ruins (AR$350). Kids go free. It’s tucked away in an arcade.
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Inka Ñan
Inka Ñan runs trips costing around AR$150 to AR$250 per person depending on numbers. There’s usually a minimum of two people, but it’s always worth asking. Tailored multiday trips are available, too.
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Héctor Heredia
A reader-recommended mountain guide. Héctor (also known as 'El Oso' or 'the Bear') can arrange extended treks, including the beautiful, accessible four-day hike from Tucumán to Tafí del Valle.
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