Getting there & away
From Tirana, buses for Prishtina (€30, 10 hours, 343km, three daily) leave from behind the museum near Sheshi Skënderbej. Buses for Sofia (€40, 17 hours) leave from Albtransport (223 026; Rr Mine Peza, Tirana; 8am-4pm Mon-Fri).
Macedonia-bound buses, going via Struga (€10, six hours, 197km, six per week) and on to Tetovo, leave from the muddy patch in front of the train station. Get tickets from the nearby Pollogu travel agency (04-23 500; 069-209 4906; Pall. 103, Bul Zogu I). It’s a little hard to find, upstairs in a modern apartment building; the entrance is next to a bright orange café, Pause.
You will need a Green Card endorsed for Albania to bring a car into the country. You’ll find that many insurers and hire companies will not cover you.
There are border crossings between Korça and Florina at Kapshtica/Krystallopigi, between Ioannina and Gjirokastra at Kakavija/Kakavia, between Ioannina and Përmeti, and north of the Greek port of Igoumenitsa at Konispoli/Sagiada.
There are four border crossings with Macedonia. The two main ones are on either side of Lake Ohrid: Qafa e Thanës–Kafa San, 65km east of Elbasan; and Tushëmishti–Sveti Naum, 5km east of Pogradec. The latter is normally crossed on foot, as taxis from Pogradec will drop you off just before the Macedonian border. You can then wait for the bus to Ohrid (80MKD, 50 minutes, 29km, four daily) on the Macedonian side. There are two smaller crossings at Blato, 5km northwest of Debar, and at Stenje on the western shore of Lake Prespa.
There are currently two border crossings. There are regular minibuses between Shkodra and Ulcinj (€8, 40 minutes), crossing the border at Muriqani. By taxi it’s €10 to the border and US$10 from there to Ulcinj. The road to Han i Hotit on the way to Podgorica is in poorer shape. A taxi to this border crossing costs about €15.
The best crossing for travellers is at Morina/Vrbnica between Kukës and Prizren, though there is another rather isolated one at Prushi. There are still occasional reports of trouble in the border area, though nothing like as bad it as once was. Travellers on buses through to Prishtina should have no problems.
Albania’s only international airport is Nënë Tereza International Airport (also known as Mother Theresa and, more commonly, Rinas airport), which is located 26km northwest of Tirana. There are no domestic flights within Albania.