Archaeological Site
Iipona
Iipona is one of the best-preserved archaeological sites in French Polynesia. You’ll be moved by its eeriness and impressed by the five monumental tiki – it pulsates with mana.
Shutterstock / Umomos
Hiva Oa
This serpentine island holds a heady, dramatic mix of lush jungle, sea-battered coastal cliffs and towering volcanic peaks. The bays that fret the coastline are lined with white-sand, black-sand or pebble-stubbled beaches that are lapped by indigo waters and fringed by nodding palms. Behind sit silent, pastel Marquesan hamlets where time has stood still. After a few days, you’ll understand why the artist Paul Gauguin and the Belgian singer Jacques Brel chose to escape the modern world here and make it their home. Hiva Oa has a wild feeling that inspires shutting off your wi-fi and focusing more on important things, like enjoying a perfect mango or sunset.
Hidden like Easter eggs in this tropical jungle dreamland are some of the most intriguing and enigmatic archaeological sites in the South Pacific, including massive, moss-covered stone tiki and unexplained petroglyphs that will keep you pondering about their meanings for days.
Hiva Oa is also the optimal launching pad for exploring Tahuata and Fatu Hiva.
Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Hiva Oa.
Cemetery
Calvaire Cemetery
A must-see for Gauguin and Brel devotees is the Calvaire Cemetery, perched on a hill overlooking Atuona. You will find this frangipani-filled graveyard an appropriately colourful place for Paul Gauguin’s tomb. While most of the tombs are marked with white crosses, Gauguin’s is a simple round stone with his name painted in white. Right behind, a replica of his statue Oviri (meaning ‘wild’) stands guard.
Archaeological Site
Tehueto Petroglyphs
Anyone with an interest in ancient Marquesan civilisation shouldn’t leave Atuona without a visit to the Tehueto petroglyphs. You’ll find a massive rock with prolific carvings on two sides, including stylised human figures.
Archaeological Site
Tiki Moe One
In Hanapaaoa, ask a local to take you to the Tiki Moe One, hidden on a hillside. One of the quirkiest statues in the Marquesas, it features a carved crown around the head and is said to be endowed with a strong mana. It’s modestly sized at under 1m in height. According to legend, the inhabitants used to take it down to the beach every year where they bathed it and coated it with monoi (fragrant oil) before putting it back in place.
Museum
Espace Culturel Paul Gauguin
A homage to Gauguin that traces the artist's life through locally painted reproductions of his art. The main signs are translated into English but the detailed info with tidbits about the individual works, alas, are only in French. The Maison du Jouir (House of Pleasure) is an abandoned-looking replica of Gauguin’s house with a lifelike statue of the artist inside.
Archaeological Site
Tohua Pehe Kua
On the property of the restaurant Pehekua – Chez Marie-Antoinette, shortly before the Iipona site, is a small graveyard with the tomb of the valley’s last chief and his partner, who died early in the 20th century. One of the four tombs at the site is flanked by two tiki. You’ll also find an imposing pae pae.
Historic Site
Tevitete Ancient Cemetery
This isolated, poignant site about 2km up in a valley (ask for directions) features a series of tombs made of stones; note the small tiki that are carved in bas-relief on a few tombs. At the back of the cemetery, a big trunk is carved in the shape of a tiki. There are great views of the valley and Atuona.
Museum
Centre Jacques Brel
Behind the Espace Culturel Paul Gauguin you’ll find a big aircraft hangar. In the centre is Jacques Brel’s plane, Jojo; faded posters tracing the musician’s life adorn the walls and his music plays dreamily over the sound system. There's not a word of English in any of the explanations.
Beach
Atuona Beach
Framed by basaltic cliffs, this wide curve of black sand is very scenic – it inspired painter Paul Gauguin, which is saying a lot – but it’s not appropriate for swimming because of strong currents. The road and area around have recently been upgraded making this a lovely short walk from town.