At its heart, Helsingborg is a sparkly showcase of rejuvenated waterfront, metro-glam restaurants, lively cobbled streets and lofty castle ruins. With Denmark looking on from a mere 4km across the Öresund, its flouncy, turreted buildings feel like a brazen statement. It’s hardly surprising: Helsingborg’s strategic position on the sound saw it battled over and battered down with tedious regularity during the many Swedish-Danish wars. In 1709 the Danes invaded Skåne, but were finally defeated the following year in a battle just outside Helsingborg. One wonders what those armies would make of the over 14 million annual passengers who now traverse the sound with seasoned nonchalance.