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Introducing Szczecin

Well off any track (non-German) tourists beat, the western port city of Szczecin (shcheh-cheen) is a lively city awash with students and a muddle of architecture inherited from wildly different ages. Crumbly German-era tenements and mansions, some now undergoing renovation, echo a past splendour but historical style is patchy. The authorities seem to have given up on the idea of rebuilding, choosing instead to fill the gaps in the city centre with glass-and-steel malls, sacrificing entire streets in the name of retail.

A busy working port, though you’d never know it wandering the city centre, Szczecin has just enough to warrant a stopover.