It's hard to get your head around Asunción. At heart the city is beautiful and simple, with a sprinkling of original colonial and beaux arts buildings, international cuisine, shady plazas and friendly people. Probe a little deeper, however, and you'll see another side: smart suburbs, ritzy shopping malls and fashionable nightclubs. Despite the heavy traffic and diesel fumes in the historic center, this is one of South America´s more likeable capitals and it doesn´t take long to learn your way around.
Asunción claims to have 2.3 million people, yet seems to hold many more – its sprawling suburbs swallow up neighboring towns.