Stavanger has a lot going for it. Its centre is arrayed around a pretty harbour with the quiet streets of the old town climbing up from the water's edge. It's also home to almost two-dozen museums, and is said by some to be the largest wooden city in Europe. But Stavanger's appeal is as much about atmosphere as anything else. Most nights, especially in summer, the city's waterfront comes alive and can get quite rowdy in the best tradition of oil and port cities. By Sunday morning, however, it's quiet and charming once again, for this is a place that has never lost its small-town feel.